Can anyone comment on the trigger wheel question above?

4 Tooth, 12 Tooth, 36 tooth??

 

From reading a few older threads, it looks like this has been done, but I'm trying to make sure I'm not missing something.

Does this turbo coolant routing look like a good idea? I'd prefer not to run two lines (turbo and heater).

 

Maxxis 245's mounted on 9's

 

Very nice build you have here.

For trigger wheel I would just make sure the MS can run each one (I'd assume it can). Typically more resolution is better as long as it's not overkill. So I'd go with the 36t.

 

MS currently cannot run any SuperMiata trigger wheel other than 4 tooth.

Edit: if you make the 36-1 SM wheel look *exactly* like the 36-2 FM wheel, that can work. But as shipped out of the box no SM damper trigger wheels work with MS other than 4t. This is from Rev, so I trust it.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I'd like to attempt to modify the factory 4t trigger wheel so it will work on the super miata damper. More on that as I get some time.

I got a chance to pop on the wheels this evening. No drivetrain, so it's in 4x4 mode but you get the idea.

 

Or just get the SuperMiata 4t wheel?

 

I have a hard time paying $125+ship for a laser cut part when I can machine the factory part for an hour of my time. If I get crunched for time I may bite the bullet and buy one.

 

I forgot you have real fab capabilities. Carry on.

 

Nice build!

 

Ever get an answer on this?

My first thought would be that it would overly restrict the amount of coolant in front of the T/Stat and then the T/Stat might not open well. But, it is the same lines that are used on the front when no re-route is done.

Less heater abitlity, I would think, due to that lower flow.

Interested in answers from those that have done this.

 

TurboTim said in a post some time ago that he has been using this setup without issue. I've not had any feedback yet unfortunately.

 

MS3X via Brain showed up today!

 

Sweet decals lol!

 

Finally got some time to finish up the new mixing manifold and start on the new intake manifold.

Also waiting on new mounts to arrive, but I got the first shipment with the clutch in today from Fab9.

Had a friend put his deposit down on an Exocet, and I'm REALLY tempted to just do that and be done with it. Its either put all this back together and next year to Exocet, or just part out the car now and order the Exocet. Plenty of time to finish the build as they are 20 weeks out..

 

Moar Progress!

Gutted the interior and pulled the harness out. Lots of parts stacking up. Almost ready to start prepping for paint.

I got a little overboard and removed all the extra bosses on the Honda intake. Need to smooth the runners out and make a flange next week.

Also, make a fixture to orient and hold the stock crank trigger. Just need to cutout the ID and make sure everything fits.

 

I've been make slow progress on this over the past few months. Work, autocross, going e85 on the subaru, etc. have kept me from finishing.

Cleaning up the welds on the manifold



Semi-Assembled Engine Pic



I'll add some more as they get uploaded.

 

Came across a deal I couldn't pass up on a square top. Of course I took it all apart and sanded down the casting marks and such.

Engine is getting buttoned up slowly but surely. Getting to the point where I need to suck it up and paint the engine bay and shove this thing in.



Made a cover to close up the waterneck hole that was driving my crazy.



Not sure what I'm going to here. Not enough room to get any kind of 12 point wrench or socket to tighten this nut down. Has anyone run into this and came out with a solution? All I'm coming up with is just using a high strength bolt if I can source one.



Looks like I'm going to have to take this to the shop and mill it down a bit. I can't remove the valve cover without pulling the fuel rail at the moment.



Obligatory pic of one of our furballs from a recent car meet.

 

Use a stud and a nut?

--Ian

 

I'm planning on using studs and nuts as can be seen in the picture on the other mounting holes.

I'm not sure the picture adequately depicts the space constraints. There is genuinely barely enough distance between the flange and the housing for even a nut to fit. I had intended on shortening up my fab9 studs but I'm not sure that's going to be a feasible option.