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Old Dec 18, 2019 | 06:42 PM
  #21  
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There’s only a few people that can walk on water and hear that Sav is one of them so don’t drift (pun intended) from that part. I think you’re on the track to finding a gremlin digging into the harness you built and tracing ground(s) back to the source connections. Keep us posted.
Old Dec 18, 2019 | 07:19 PM
  #22  
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I've already been back through it.

I built it from scratch using connector kits from ballenger motorsports, except for CAS which at the time (IIRC) they didn't offer a connector kit for. The CAS connector pigtail has been re-soldered since this issue arose.
Old Dec 21, 2019 | 10:57 AM
  #23  
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Which MS? I had sync issues after I shortened the leads on my '99 (to get rid of the Front to Back to Front routing). Am on a MS-3 Basic from MSLabs. Might can help.

He uses (or on l long case version) used the optical isolation circuit. No HW adjustment of VR pots. I had too include some FW filtering and problem was solved. Ian had similar and added some filter caps rather than FW filtering.

If a version with VR inputs, then trim pot adjustment may be called for.

DNM
Old Dec 21, 2019 | 11:42 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
Which MS? I had sync issues after I shortened the leads on my '99 (to get rid of the Front to Back to Front routing). Am on a MS-3 Basic from MSLabs. Might can help.

He uses (or on l long case version) used the optical isolation circuit. No HW adjustment of VR pots. I had too include some FW filtering and problem was solved. Ian had similar and added some filter caps rather than FW filtering.

If a version with VR inputs, then trim pot adjustment may be called for.

DNM
I'm on an MS3X built to Trubokitty specs.
Old Dec 21, 2019 | 12:20 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Stock
I'm on an MS3X built to Trubokitty specs.
Possibly someone can give advice on setting the VR trim pots. That would seem to me the logical area to work.
Old Jan 5, 2020 | 03:39 PM
  #26  
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So I haven't touch the pots yet but I had a weird occurrence yesterday and I wanted to post about it...

With the holidays and my laziness, I haven't messed with the car in a week or so. I went out yesterday to clean the garage, which involves moving the Miata out, and it wouldn't start. It wanted to, but it was acting like there was timing issue - It was firing and stumbling and popping but it would never catch and idle. I ended up switching it from "falling edge" to "rising edge" and it fired up but the VVT angle gauge was going nuts so I disabled VVT and took it up the road. Car pulled good to redline once, no sync loss, no issues. Turned around and headed home, did a pull and lost RPM, car would not restart, just RPM-less cranking on the side of the road a half mile from my house. I'm sitting there pissed off about having to push it home and then it popped into my head to switch back to "falling edge" and see what happened...

Immediately see RPM in TS but it's doing the same thing it did in the garage, popping and stumbling but not ever really catching and idling. Switched BACK to "rising edge" and the car fired up and I drove it home...

Figured posting this might help narrow something down as far as when I need to be looking at?

Old Jan 6, 2020 | 05:12 PM
  #27  
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^So I guess all that was bullshit...

Tried to start the car just now, didn't show RPM in TS regardless of rising or falling edge? Swapped out the crank sensor with the one I got from patsmx5 and was able to register RPM in TS but it's doing the same thing as far as stumbling without firing but now I'm getting an occasional kickback on the starter.

No, I still haven't touched the pots, past the trubokitty build instructioins seeing as to how I drove it 2 days ago... Should I?

Attached is a sync error log of me starting the car just now. Please help.
Attached Files
File Type: csv
2020-01-06_14.44.04.csv (85.5 KB, 53 views)
Old May 31, 2020 | 12:51 AM
  #28  
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Oh, hi.





Chopped those things off.



Brought it back home to take apart again.



The plan from the beginning was to spray the interior, jambs, trunk (everything basically) grey before I wrapped it but I was too impatient to see it blue. Took a break from the sync loss issue to kinda “pump the breaks” and get back to building what I wanted to build instead of rushing for a result.








Old May 31, 2020 | 01:01 AM
  #29  
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Gutted and sprayed the doors.









Sprayed the finish panel with some Voodoo Blue (Toyota 8T6) spray paint from eBay.







Wanted to do a half 1.6 dash again.


Old May 31, 2020 | 01:11 AM
  #30  
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IT'S ALL ******* GREY, DO YOU UNDERSTAND?



Not that, that's blue now too.




Painted and flocked it, got a new gauge hood from RSpeed and flocked that too. eBay tomstone and shifter rebuilt.



Willwood you look at that? M-tuned brackets with sport rotors in the rear.



I used the eBay Voodoo spray for the finish panel and rollbar but it's $35 a can so the valvecover got a Krylon enamel spray. It's a few shades too light but it was also $4.



Final install on flares, they were just bolted on up until this point (Why the **** would I wrap the car before I cut the fenders?!)



Repairing the damaged hardtop.

Last edited by Stock; May 31, 2020 at 01:22 AM.
Old May 31, 2020 | 01:34 AM
  #31  
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They aren't the best repairs but it also isn't the best hardtop.




GREY.



RSpeed dress up bits.




Eh.



Once the car runs again I'll be cutting 4' out of the mess.



That way I can mount ECU, Racepak and fuse block on a bracket over the trans tunnel under the dash.
Old May 31, 2020 | 01:41 AM
  #32  
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So here's the "finished exterior product". Still waiting on 9LR wing to ship and to score a 2nd front bumper for airdam but I'm super pleased with where it's at as a whole.








Cut a lexan rear window today. Still need to trim and sand some areas and paint the trim before installing.



Old May 31, 2020 | 01:42 AM
  #33  
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So, now I've come full circle and I'm back to trying to figure out why this thing decided it doesn't want to start again.
Old May 31, 2020 | 09:58 AM
  #34  
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So what diff and ratio do you run?
Old May 31, 2020 | 01:14 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
So what diff and ratio do you run?
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Drivetrain is stock, aside from the engine. it's a 95 with power everything, cruise, etc.
Old Jun 1, 2020 | 09:43 AM
  #36  
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Ok, so probably a 4.3 then. I will be selling my 4.3 pumpkin with an OSGiken if that interests you. I can bring it to the August Super Lap, as long as we get to do that.
Old Jun 1, 2020 | 11:28 AM
  #37  
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4.10. The only 4.30s in NAs were 1.6 cars.
Old Aug 29, 2020 | 09:08 PM
  #38  
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I am having a similar issue. I am probably going to adjust my pots tomorrow. If that doesn't work I'll buy and install the 36-2 trigger wheel.
Old Sep 24, 2021 | 03:59 PM
  #39  
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Did you ever get this thing running right? I have the same ECU (I think, it looks the same, mine's a trubokitty ms3x) and I had an issue with the car intermittently misfiring and occasionally simply dying and not re-starting. I ended up tuning the pots, which made no difference. The fix for me was switching to falling edge to rising edge (or vice versa) pickup. I also have a 36-2 FM wheel.

Just saw you posted on the local time attack page, would be awesome to see this car in ABQ if you are able to make it.
Old Mar 14, 2022 | 04:15 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Fireindc
Did you ever get this thing running right? I have the same ECU (I think, it looks the same, mine's a trubokitty ms3x) and I had an issue with the car intermittently misfiring and occasionally simply dying and not re-starting. I ended up tuning the pots, which made no difference. The fix for me was switching to falling edge to rising edge (or vice versa) pickup. I also have a 36-2 FM wheel.

Just saw you posted on the local time attack page, would be awesome to see this car in ABQ if you are able to make it.
No VVT is awful.






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