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Old 10-01-2017, 03:26 PM   #1
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So in November of 2016 I decided that Jeeps were no longer my thing. So I sold my 95 Cherokee and bought my current 92 Miata for $700. To start her off, she was pretty rough. She had a botched timing belt job, cam bolts were backed out and rubbing on the cam gears, had a leaky thermostat, and a very bad paint job (she still does).

My first order of business was to get her running well and planted on the street. Thankfully the timing belt job had only been done a few hundred miles before me buying it so nothing serious was needed. I set the timing back to it's proper setting, replaced the thermostat, went ahead and replaced all the belts, and got some Falken Azeni RT615K tires on some TRM FF10 wheels. That really settled everything down well.
Also that hardtop is no more. I got it from a buddy but gave it back since it leaked terribly from the window seals. Be wary of Smoothline Hardtops (no money lost on that thankfully).
As she sits now, she got a Hard Dog M2 Sport Double Diagonal roll bar and some Moss Miata Raydot mirrors. DO NOT RECOMMEND THESE! The glass isn't held in place well and rattles terribly. Will be getting something from REV9 in the future.

Now I've got a MS2PNP on order and will also be picking up some FF 640cc Injectors to compliment them. I also picked up a big treadstone intercooler that I may or may not use, not sure yet. Currently have a cast iron log manifold and a 50 trim T3 turbo that should be delivered on Monday.
No ****, this thing is pretty big. 28x7x2.5, maybe too big?
The t3 trim cast manifold
And the 50 trim T3 I picked up for $50!
I've also got lots of good stuff planned for the future as well

Interior:
Almost everything will be done through RevLimiter and MiataRoadster. Been thinking about some sort of retro bucket seats.

Exterior and wheels and tires: Needs paint, 15x9 or x10 6uls with 245 RS4's

Suspension and Brakes: WANT XIDAS! No idea on brakes yet, maybe a FM BBK?

Drivetrain: 3.9 torsen, 6 speed maybe?, and a 949 Supermiata clutch.

Last edited by LittleCarBigFun; 10-01-2017 at 03:30 PM. Reason: Edit: doing this on mobile and accidentally hit submit before I was done
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Old 10-01-2017, 03:55 PM   #2
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Interesting, I would def make sure you get all the supporting mods. With more power and the snail you will want better brakes, cooling and ect. I can vouch for the 4 piston wilwood kit from FM. I did all four corners.
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Old 10-01-2017, 03:58 PM   #3
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I completely forgot to mention that! I'm also debating between the 949 Qmax kit (coolant reroute and their big rad) or a Mishimoto setup and lopro fans. And glad to hear about the brakes! Still keeping my options open.
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Old 10-01-2017, 08:36 PM   #4
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I wouldn't get a mishimoto radiator. Either get a koyo or pony up for the 949 ish or just get an eBay alu rad
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Old 10-01-2017, 08:40 PM   #5
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I wouldn't get a mishimoto radiator. Either get a koyo or pony up for the 949 ish or just get an eBay alu rad
You're the first person to steer me away from the Mishimoto rad. Greg from TheCarPassionChannel recommended it, but 949 is an option and so is Koyo.
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:58 PM   #6
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Mishimoto is junk. Get the 949 crossflow. $349 and done, keep the factory fans they will be fine. They only cool the car at low speeds anyway. A good radiator and ducting will go a long way. There is a definitive thread on this somewhere here.
http://949racing.com/SuperMiata-Cros...tor-miata.aspx
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Old 10-02-2017, 08:09 AM   #7
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I upgraded from the Mishimoto to the 949 this summer, and I was able to run four 5-minute sessions before I hit 225f. And that's without ducting and hood vents.
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:54 AM   #8
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Sell manifold and turbo. Buy MKTurbo DIY setup. Buy my 949 Big Grip Kit from me at the same time. Get all the go fast parts at once. I will even throw in a reroute spacer.
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Old 10-02-2017, 12:52 PM   #9
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Sell manifold and turbo. Buy MKTurbo DIY setup. Buy my 949 Big Grip Kit from me at the same time. Get all the go fast parts at once. I will even throw in a reroute spacer.
Dude I bought the turbo from said it was from your kit actually. If I could just buy the diy kit minus the turbo I would. Same with your big grip kit, but at thw moment I only have $570 in my bank account
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Old 10-02-2017, 01:07 PM   #10
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Yeah, the cost differential between koyo and 949 makes the latter a no brainer. Id likely have done that if I had to make the choice now.

The koyo is really nice but... The 949 radiator was designed specifically for this purpose. They also have a CSF radiator that's a bit cheaper IIRC.
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Old 10-02-2017, 02:02 PM   #11
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Yeah, I like what 949 makes so next month I'll put an order in for their cross flow radiator
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Old 10-02-2017, 02:43 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by LittleCarBigFun View Post
Dude I bought the turbo from said it was from your kit actually. If I could just buy the diy kit minus the turbo I would. Same with your big grip kit, but at thw moment I only have $570 in my bank account
I do sell my setups without a turbo if you are seriously interested. Visa and Mastercard are you best friends.

Also skip the 949 radiator and mishimoto. Either buy the cheapest eBay all aluminum radiator, or save up and buy a TSE radiator. I have used well over several dozen eBay aluminum radiators without issues since 2008. The last one I purchased was like $104 shipped and dropped right out without issues.
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Old 10-02-2017, 02:53 PM   #13
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I do sell my setups without a turbo if you are seriously interested. Visa and Mastercard are you best friends.

Also skip the 949 radiator and mishimoto. Either buy the cheapest eBay all aluminum radiator, or save up and buy a TSE radiator. I have used well over several dozen eBay aluminum radiators without issues since 2008. The last one I purchased was like $104 shipped and dropped right out without issues.
Oh my...I'll have to see. I would just need the ic piping, MS3PNP, injectors, manifold, and exhaust
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Old 10-02-2017, 03:09 PM   #14
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Dang, didn't know the TSE was that much better than the 949.
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Old 10-02-2017, 03:16 PM   #15
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Dang, didn't know the TSE was that much better than the 949.
I have not done back to back tests between the two. But I know Savington personally designed the TSE radiator to be track reliable in a boosted environment, where I feel Emilio more tends to design against a naturally aspirated track car. So to me its either go the cheapest route possible, or just man up and buy the best of the best. These are words I live by because in all my miata's I either have the cheapest Ebay radiator, or a TSE one.
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Old 10-02-2017, 06:43 PM   #16
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Since when was the 949 radiator not the bad ***? I recall Emilio saying that his radiator was special for a few reasons, That's why it took so long to get out to the public.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I have not done back to back tests between the two. But I know Savington personally designed the TSE radiator to be track reliable in a boosted environment, where I feel Emilio more tends to design against a naturally aspirated track car.
Running an SPM crossflow in Bullet, 220whp turbo. Stays below 200 even during races on warm days. William has one in his S1 and same results. The Crossflow is optimized for cars with good airflow, which Bullet has. If you have a 300whp turbo street car running pump gas with A/C, only OEM ducting, no hood vents or reroute, huge FMIC blocking the rad you need a mack truck sized rad to make up for the lack of airflow. In such a case its just thermal mass keeping your car from blowing up. A giant radiator cures many ills. The Crossflow is designed for a well setup cooling system, chopped up front end to increase airflow, lotsa hood vents, tight ducting to rad, FMIC set below or at bottom of rad, reroute, not too much antifreeze. In such a case, our high efficiency core works perfectly even with big power.

With an N/A build, it has enough spare capacity that airflow and ducting are less critical. Where high mass rads like the TSE shine is in less optimized systems like street cars with A/C and mostly stock front ends. Our Crossflow would not be happy in Acamas, Andrews 350whp pump gas burning street car with A/C and no hood vents.

Last edited by emilio700; 10-03-2017 at 10:20 PM. Reason: speling
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:24 PM   #18
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Running an SPM crossflow in Bullet, 220whp turbo. Stays below 200 even during races on warm days. William has one in his S1 and same results. The Crossflow is optimized for cars with good airflow, which Bullet has. If you have a 300whp turbo street car running pump gas with A/C, only OEM ducting, no hood vents or reroute, huge FMIC blocking the rad you need a mack truck sized rad to make up for the lack of airflow. In such a case its just thermal mass keeping your car from blowing up. A giant radiator cures many ills. The Crossflow is designed for a well setup cooling system, chopped up front end to increase airflow, lotsa hood vents, tight ducting to rad, FMIC set below or at bottom of rad, reroute, not too much antifreeze. In such a case, our high efficiency core works perfectly even with big power.

With an N/A build, it has enough spare capacity that airflow and ducting are less critical. Where high mass rads like the TSE shine is in less optimized systems like street cars with A/C and mostly stock front ends. Our Crossflow would not be happy in Acamas, Andrews 350whp pump gas burning street car with A/C and no hood vents.
Would your crossflow do well in my street car that'll make 220whp adn still have AC?
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Old 10-04-2017, 12:16 AM   #19
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Airflow. The Crossflow is designed for cars with good airflow. Visit the cooling system thread.
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Old 10-04-2017, 09:51 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCarBigFun View Post
Would your crossflow do well in my street car that'll make 220whp adn still have AC?
My 37mm Koyo works fine at about that level... now that I have ducted it, bypassed some air around the FMIC, have a coolant re-route, and an oil cooler.

Took it up a mountain yesterday with some sustained full power, uphill pulls. No worries.

So, I would expect 949 would as well. But like Emilio said, it may take some other efforts beyond just installing it.
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