Ooo. The return line sees almost no pressure. I'm actually more concerned about the high pressure side.. Which is still a very little amount of concern.

Thanks for showing people in detail the proper fix though. I like that you put yours closer to the rail. Better for people with daily drivers i would agree.

Sneaky :)

Attachment 233283

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460637508

Can't wait to see the e85 dyno sheet. :likecat:

Your OEM-ness of allthethings is damn sexy :party:

New rubber:

Attachment 233282

Starting to fit my 245/40s. Clearance is super snug.

e: Flat-rolled rear NB quarterpanel, 245/40 Maxxis VR-1 on 15x10 6UL

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460765077

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460765247

I sense a fender roller in your future :party:

Is that rolled? on 10s?

That is post-roll. Nothing more I can do without a BFH. I was not careful enough with the heat gun and cracked the damn paint. :hatecat: I was hoping to save the paint from the doors back, but it wasn't meant to be.

Gawd damn! Is that going to rub under compression or is there enough camber that it might clear?

Dono, it may. I have the shock out so the tire is already compressed a fair amount (just using a jack to cycle the arms up/down). I can go a bit higher than that without rubbing, but I'll still add some camber to aid clearance. The car is set to 1.8* at static ride height right now. I will probably go up to ~2.2.

Eagerly watching this, thanks for documenting it so clearly. I want this in my future.

That racelogic unit, do you notice any improvements with it? I was looking to get something similar.

I have not driven my car with the system active, and I don't make enough power to make good use of it yet. I have driven a ~300whp car with an RL TCS system (Codrus' car) and the impact is substantial. The car accelerates hard in 2nd and 3rd gear, whereas before it would simply smoke the tires. You can also lean on the system hard and it will do the work for you - you simply go WOT and hold your foot down and the system reduces and adds in power as it sees fit.

At 400whp, some form of advanced TCS becomes virtually required. Since the RL boxes are no longer available from Vbox, my goal is to get the system dialed in and then use its capability to compare to the Megasquirt system as those boxes develop more advanced TCS capabilities. The goal is to transition to a system controlled entirely by the ECU at some point, but that could be years away.

Have you considered a pro efi 128 ecu to control the whole car? They have come down in price alot can can be had for around $1500 new i believe at this point. It has very good traction control/flex fuel and is a big reason why i picked it in my fairly high power build (for a miata) vs my other options like aem or megaquirt. Supra guys seem to be in love with the 128 traction control and theres tons of videos showing how capable it is.

I'm quite happy with the MSLabs MS3 Basic I'm using. I have zero interest in a ProEFI box.

Does the Pro-efi do 4 wheel traction control? If not then the ms3 probably is somewhat comparable. I had a thread recently where i discussed it (i recently added a vr conditioner to have dual VSS inputs)

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...-inputs-87770/

Very interested in how this goes Andrew. I haven't had time to play with TC. Once track season started I have 0 tuning time. Would love to pick your brain when you get around to playing with it.

Sav, I see your trying to keep the Return less fuel system. What you think it will max out at?

Also when you make the final oil and water lines make me a set. I'll take them. My MSM build is in need.

No idea where the returnless system will max at. We will just watch the DC%s as we add power and see if they become unstable at some point.

A little T5 content for you. Swapping the input shaft was slightly more involved than I expected it to be, but I had seen a video of it being done in ~30 seconds, so my expectations were pretty high. After removing the bearing cover and tapping it off, the input shaft is exposed, but you have to rotate it a bit until it pops out. You also need to tilt the trans nose-down to keep all of these bearings in place as the input shaft comes out.

Attachment 233279

A synchro will also come out with it, and to get that back into place, the trans has to tilt nose-up while you reinstall the input shaft.

Old shaft out:

Attachment 233280

Old bearing retainer vs. new

Attachment 233281

Next step is to install the new shaft, check endplay with no shims, and preload it to ~.002" with the appropriate shim. It should have no play, but still spin smoothly. Once that's done, it's off to the welder to finish the proto bellhousing.

So excited for this! I have a MSM with big plans to build but I was holding back because the tranny issue. This gives me hope! I hope this goes into production or a step by step instruction for DIY. Been following this port since day 1 and excited for the outcome. Mad props sir!

We will release a full kit built around Ford's T5Z dimensions. No pricing yet, but trying to stay in the $1000 +/- ballpark (plus trans). The kit will be a bellhousing, clutch disc, pilot bearing, shifter extension, PPF adapter, and driveshaft. Budget-minded folks will be able to buy a common V6 box for $150-200 and convert it to V8 for ~$150 in parts (input shaft, bearing, bearing cover, shim kit), or you can opt for a T5Z box from FoMoCo at ~$1000, or you can build a box for ~$2300ish. Several good options depending on your budget and needs.