Originally Posted by acedeuce802
(Post 1380864)
The diode is rated at 1A continuous, but all continuous power will be going through the motor. Flyback current would be a quick surge, which the 1N4007 can handle 30A surge.
This is just my interpretation, is this not correct? |
2 coats in
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d3562af02b.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...57dc566caa.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...484f3336fe.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ccfa80aec9.jpg sent you an email. there's an issue with one of them. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1380859)
I like this one, it looks a lot more legit: https://www.efihardware.com/products...head-terminals
Permatex had a Hylomar product but it appears to be NLA or superceded. Can anyone think of a reason why standard Permatex PTFE goo wouldn't do the trick? |
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Vlad, what kind of paint are you using, and are you going to "chrome" it?
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basic rustoleum paint for plastic. usually flat black or semigloss black is the standard, but you can get creative with tints and pearls if you wanted to.
see my thread about this where I posted various examples, including dark gray pearl. |
Gasoila E-Seal is a specifically E85-rated thread sealant with PTFE.
https://www.amazon.com/Gasoila-Seal-.../dp/B00CRKVI4S |
Originally Posted by acedeuce802
(Post 1380864)
The diode is rated at 1A continuous, but all continuous power will be going through the motor. Flyback current would be a quick surge, which the 1N4007 can handle 30A surge.
This is just my interpretation, is this not correct? |
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1381080)
Take the case of 50% duty cycle. The current might be 5A. The diode (and pump) will each see 2.5A average. It will cook.
Ordered up a bunch of small bits and wire this morning. 10awg Tefzel wire, DR25 heatshrink, ring terminals, and a single 25A 2-pin Deutsch connector so I can assemble the bulkhead terminals and then never touch them again. I haven't found the fuel pump connector yet - I'd like to buy it in connector+pins form so I can crimp my own wire in. I didn't see it in the connector witchhunt thread, though. |
I bought a the 2 pin connector for 10gauge wire. Let me find where I got it.
Edit: Didn't realize you wanted the stock connector. Can't help you there. I just chopped the 2 wires I needed off. Didn't want to touch the signal wires for level. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1380834)
I think the best answer is really a carb motor high flow low pressure pump in the tank feeding a small surge tank with an outside the tank pump so you dont have to deal with that shit.
For me, the killer was the thought of listening to an external 044 screaming away. Not street-car friendly. Same reason I'm trying to use a DW300 at near-max capacity instead of going to a louder Walbro 450. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1381085)
Thanks for pointing this out. The form factor of yours makes it a little awkward to incorporate into the harness. How about this: DST2045AX Littelfuse Inc. Discrete Semiconductor Products DigiKey Nearly the same specs but easier to drape across two wires and solder into place.
The part I linked is meant to be mounted on a heatsink. This kind of heatsink will probably work: 531202B02500G Aavid Thermalloy | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1381086)
I bought a the 2 pin connector for 10gauge wire. Let me find where I got it.
Edit: Didn't realize you wanted the stock connector. Can't help you there. I just chopped the 2 wires I needed off. Didn't want to touch the signal wires for level. |
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1381094)
That's a cute diode (I had to look up who Littelfuse ate to acquire their diode business!), but the problem is you can't get the heat out of the package. It's rated at 20A only at 25*C and with a PCB with copper area pulling heat out of the legs. It will overheat at only 5A average or so.
The part I linked is meant to be mounted on a heatsink. This kind of heatsink will probably work: 531202B02500G Aavid Thermalloy Fans, Thermal Management DigiKey I am definitely going to put all of this together into a kit. It shouldn't be nearly this hard :) |
Don't know about DW300.
Walbro450 is a metripack-280. I got connector and pins for 10awg wire. |
2 Attachment(s)
Starting to wire things up. I have the FPR and filter mounted but I'm waiting on some sleeve to protect the fuel hoses as they squeeze their way down past the tank before I start plumbing.
SSR will sit on the passenger side of the car, flyback diode will sit on the driver's side. The flyback ended up being kind of a bulky thing - I didn't have any good solution for splicing a trio of 10awg wires, so I grabbed some spare 12awg and I'm going to connect it to the pump at the bulkhead. That means four wires up to the tank instead of two, but oh well. Dedicated fuseholder just after the battery will hold a 25A fuse. I even managed to get the wire tucked in with the OEM terminal cover :party: Attachment 233261 Attachment 233262 |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1381087)
For me, the killer was the thought of listening to an external 044 screaming away. Not street-car friendly. Same reason I'm trying to use a DW300 at near-max capacity instead of going to a louder Walbro 450.
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Interesting, I must have mixed it up with the 044 WRT noise. Radium has a test that says that it's quieter than the Walbro 255 (although that's not a good benchmark either). It's not hard to switch pumps later - just a pigtail swap since I'm wired with 10awg already. It's worth knowing where the DW300 taps out.
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taps out at a legit 400 on e85. Maybe a smidge more
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I actually have a video of the 450 noise I'll post it later.
It gets louder when your pwm it. Like significantly louder. |
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