... let me talk some sense into you:

- and remember, REAL SUPERHEROES wear their undies on the outside!

 

Just finished welding turbos onto a 570s GT4. Mclaren shipped them tacked on 4 corners and a small weld along two edges, but they sent out a bulletin recommending removing and fully welding the circumference after grinding a decent chamfer. They even called out an Inconel welding rod, fancy.

Just goes to show, we're not the only ones dealing with this turbo issues. A lot of OE turbos are one piece from the factory now for a reason.

 

Watch me bring my welder to the next race weekend. Ill weld the bitch on the spot of it wants to be difficult.

Speaking of racing. I went to a "spur of the moment" time attack event at a smokey Thunderhill. Secured a 2nd place podium even though the car is kinda in shambles. Cool.

I ditched the stage 8 junk and used home depot racing lock nuts on the top 2 turbo studs with mass amounts of resbond to lock it in. Seemed to work pretty well. Knock on wood it stays like this.

Luckily for me the car started to break up 1st or 2nd session out. It was very weird. The car was fine until it wasn't, then the car would misfire so bad I could barely limp it around the track. Restarting the car seemed to fix the issue for a little then it would come back. I think it's the coils. They are original and have never been changed. So I'll try that and hope it fixes it.

 

Video link is now working.

 

Swapped coil packs today. Did nothing. I did start to notice that it "initiates" the misfiring once rpm dips low enough. I was ripping through the gears trying to put heat into it and as soon as I came to a stop/idle the car took a ****. I guess ill have to take a log and see what I can find.

 

2 things

1. When it's misfiring start pulling plug connections. See if you can pinpoint a cylinder.

2. Start ******* with all the harnesses. Bend them, move them around, look for a loose connection. The motor vibrates a lot more at lower rpm.

 

Are there any DTCs set in your Haltech?

 

I don't have a haltech. I just have the sticker on the car for class contingency reasons.

 

Well then, shows you how well I can read.

 

I don't know if I even said that in here. So don't worry lol.

 

Try swapping the cam sensor out.

 

Did that at the track. No dice.

 

Pulling plug wires makes the car run even worse. So it has me thinking this is an ECU/Tune issue and not a hardware issue. Remember it goes away once I restart the car every time. I'm fairly confident this isn't an issue mechanically.

Here are some logs. The first one is the car running like **** right off bat. The second one is me revving it a bit, letting it idle, and then it going to **** (so you can see the transition).

bad mis 1.mlg

good to bad mis.mlg

 

I don't see a bad idle in the 2nd log. RPM starts to oscillate almost mechanically, but your TPS is going up and down too. So either you're doing that, or your TPS signal is bad.

 

it starts right at the end. Roughly the 292s mark. My laptop died right as it transitioned so I don't have much in that log. But you can see AFR drop considerably to mid 10s and it just keeps going down from there post log.

 

Ethanol percent is going from 0 to 1%, which causes a 63% change in "E85 Fuel Correction". Might try disabling your flex adjustments

 

Good catch. That worked. So now the question is why 1% E content is making a 63% correction. E0-10 should not be corrected as those are the settings I have in the map for the constant. Weird.

 

Can you post your tune? I didn’t see it in the last 2 pages.

 

Here ya go:
CurrentTune.msq

 

Probably the fallback/sensor failure mode. If you're using the GM sensor, looks like it should be at 150hz. If it's still at 50hz, it'll send a "bad" signal, causing MS to fallback to +63%.