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Old 06-28-2016, 04:18 PM   #1
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Default TTE/TTD build

Well, I have been doing lots of track days this year and I think its time to steer my car into TTE or TTD territory. I am starting this thread to update my build and ask questions without disturbing the "adventures in TTE" thread.
I would like to stay in TTE because there are more TTE competitors in the region.
This is what I am currently working on:

1990 Miata with VVT swap, stock engine except for the head being shaved 0.030"- dynoed at 152/131 (but I can detune it)
CAI
Square top intake manifold
GT500 injectors
6 speed + 4.1 torsen
Xidas 900/550
RB front sway bar
AWR front swaybar mounts
15x9s with Maxxis
MS3basic
extended ball joints 3.7f-3.2r camber
1.8 brakes all around and 626 1" master with wilwood PV.

Plans:
I really want to run with a front air dam and the singular/gt250 rear wing

So:
2500lbs/130hp dyno reclass
+3 air dam
+4 wing
+5 xidas
+3 diff
+3 205 R7s
=18 points

I will need:
Air dam
Wing
5 speed transmission
o.s. giken
Sad fab bushings? and get rid of the extended ball joints?
stock sway bars and 1000/500lb springs
CAN I KEEP MY AWR SWAY MOUNTS?
CAN I KEEP MY 1" MASTER?
CAN I KEEP THE 1.8 BRAKES?
CAN I KEEP THE SQUARE TOP MANIFOLD?
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:48 PM   #2
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Sad fab bushings? and get rid of the extended ball joints? Yep.
stock sway bars and 1000/500lb springs. Yep.
CAN I KEEP MY AWR SWAY MOUNTS? Nope.
CAN I KEEP MY 1" MASTER? Yep.
CAN I KEEP THE 1.8 BRAKES? Probably, but you should ask Greg. Regular 1.8 brakes are definitely legal with a non-VVT 1.8 swap, and sport brakes are definitely legal with a VVT swap, but I haven't seen anything allowing the small 1.8 brakes with VVT.
CAN I KEEP THE SQUARE TOP MANIFOLD? Yep, but a 99-00 manifold will probably work better for your detuning goals.
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:52 PM   #3
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Thanks!
So do they stock sway bar mounts hold up for track use with the stock sway bar?
I will email Greg, do you think there is an advantage going with sport brakes?
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:39 PM   #4
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Pretty sure you can keep the AWRs.

Almost positive you have to take points for any 1.8 brakes on a 1990 chassis. Tied to chassis year, not to engine swap year.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:34 PM   #5
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I thought that using regular 1.8 brakes was allowed, maybe Savington knows?
I'm going to get a list of questions together and email Greg. Hopefully I can keep the awr mounts as the stock ones are very flimsy and I cut the tack weld on them.
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:16 PM   #6
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You have to specifically ask for it in your dyno reclass request and he will factor it into your dyno reclass and you will not take points for the brakes.

Also the aero in E is not worth the points.

You need to be on a TTE* (one star) base class. Ditching the wing and air dam will allow you to do this. The extra power will be faster. Aim for 2400lbs comp weight and your max HP should be about 134 ish.
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:51 PM   #7
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Thanks for the great advice!
The reason why I was thinking about aero is because a few local tte guys are running with aero.

What about:
+7 One Star Base Class
+9 Hoosier SM7
-7 Tire Size 205mm
+3 Limited Slip
+5 Coilovers (Shocks/Springs)
+2 Sway Bars
Total is +19

Or can I ditch the sway bars and use those 2 points for something else?

Last edited by btabor; 06-29-2016 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:28 AM   #8
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I will totally buy those AWR swaybar mounts if you can't use them

/Thread poaching
Cool build though.
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btabor View Post
Thanks for the great advice!
The reason why I was thinking about aero is because a few local tte guys are running with aero.

What about:
+7 One Star Base Class
+9 Hoosier SM7
-7 Tire Size 205mm
+3 Limited Slip
+5 Coilovers (Shocks/Springs)
+2 Sway Bars
Total is +19

Or can I ditch the sway bars and use those 2 points for something else?
E* +7
R7 +3
Diff +3
Xida +5
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:44 AM   #10
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Thanks Dan, you are the reason why I want to stay in TTE vs TTD, great success!
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Old 06-29-2016, 01:34 AM   #11
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R7 and stock sways is faster than SM7 and aftermarket sways. A little more of a handful to drive but it is what it is.
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Old 06-29-2016, 02:17 AM   #12
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Does anyone here drive your car to the track on a 4.77 final gear? I wonder how high it will rev going ~ 70mph for 4-5 hours.
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Old 06-29-2016, 02:40 AM   #13
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:21 PM   #14
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I drove mine to the track a few times with the 4.77s. I just drove a little slower than usual (70-75 vs. my usual 82mph) to keep the RPMs down. It's not that big of a difference. Here's a really good gear calculator if you want to run the numbers yourself:

http://www.andysautosport.com/learni...r/calculators/
Transmission ratios:
https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/gearing.php

I've never heard of anyone having problems with the stock swaybar brackets and stock bars. Maybe someone else will chime in. I'll be extremely surprised if Greg says the AWR mounts are ok to use for no points though. BMWs are very well known for having massive subframe mount failures if not reinforced, and Greg still makes them take chassis stiffening points for the weld-in reinforcement plates. It also isn't legal to use aftermarket endlinks unless you're taking the points for swaybars.
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btabor View Post
Does anyone here drive your car to the track on a 4.77 final gear? I wonder how high it will rev going ~ 70mph for 4-5 hours.
70mph in my 5-speed and 4.77 is about 4000RPM in 5th gear with 225/45/15 tires. I believe it'll be slightly higher (RPM) for you in the 6-speed (in 6th) with the same tires, but it's completely tolerable.
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