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I cant find anyone here to help me with drag specific suspension so iam most likely going to try stock springs a sport shocks and see what the difference is.
I cant find anyone here to help me with drag specific suspension so iam most likely going to try stock springs a sport shocks and see what the difference is.
i was playing with a 1/4 mile calc yesterday to my weight and power they estimate 10.62 but if i drop 50kgs and find 45-50 rwkw it calculates a 9.96 so that is my next goal
I ordered a pneumatic ram today and clevis pin as iam going to try to piece together my own pneumatic shifter all working off a RPM based switch so i can eliminate one more human element to get more consistency.
think its safe to say the drag car bug has bitten. its very addictive
Ok so whilst iam waiting for my shifter stuff i have been researching suspension options this is my train of thought
- welded and braced rear subframe
- bracing other suspension components
- stiffer rear bushes
- racing beat diff brace
- kings (our springs brand) lowered springs 30mm lower
- a good sports rear shock
- stock front shocks
- stock front springs
- front drop spindles
so that gives me the lowering id need and stiff rear setup and soft front suspension with lots of travel. front what i have been reading IRS cars need everything reinforced to prevent deflection so the tyres are doing everything.
It's hilarious to me that you're in the 10's and just now looking at the suspension. I used to do quite a bit of drag racing with V8 american junk and learned a few things. I believe your're right in that you need to concentrate on keeping the rear tires pointed strait, flex in the bushings is infinitely more than any chassis bracing will remove. I'd do delrin in the spindle side joints and poly on the chassis side joints. If you're feeling froggy monoball's would be ideal on the lower arm chassis connections. You can look at my A-arm thread for another approach but I dunno if that's really the best route for you unless you can't get the rear camber to zero in which case a set of adjustable arms would be ideal.
As far as spring and shock setup, on the front you want a one way valve that lets the suspension droop but not compress with the lightest springs that'll keep the car off the pavement. disconnect your sway bar too. On the rear it gets tricky, you need to spend some time calculating the IC of the miata. Some cars squat under acceleration (IC in front of CG) and some actually lift the body while driving the tires into the pavement (IC behind CG), each scenario takes a different spring and shock setup obviously. I think you'll see that the miata chassis has an IC way out in front of the CG and changing this is a rather large undertaking. I'd bandaid this up with stiffer springs and shocks, adjustable shocks would be nice in that you could tune how hard you "hit" the tires out of the hole but if you start really hitting slicks like most drag guys do you're going to splode' the torsen.
God do I want to see this thing make a 9 second glory run on the stock diff.
I think the above advice is good with one exception. Do not unhook or remove the front sway. In straight axle drag cars I have driven without a front sway, they were controllable and safe. When I tried it in the Miata however, it was very dangerous. If you get out of line, chances are pretty good you will end up in the wall.
These days, some of the top drag race setups use the sway bars. It helps keep the car flat during launch.
I will finish the Nitrous kit on the MX5 shortly i have gotten distracted with a cheap EVO 6.5 my work traded in and decided to clean it up for a fun daily as i miss driving manual.
So i was scared of Nitrous apparently if i wanted to do it properly i needed to do a direct port setup and i was not keen on 4 jets hanging out the top of my inlet manifold and after a long conversation with Dann he got me convinced i need to change my turbo to a GTX but my source of turbo parts ( a friend of a friend) is away for 4 weeks so i though in the mean time id have a play with water methanol and see if it helps my setup.
After a little bit of playing iam halfway through making a bracket i just need to trim the feet to fit in the rear left hand recess in the boot.
its all wired up i tested the system with the sprayer hose hanging out of the car and it works a treat. so next job is add a solenoid that should arrive today and run the hose properly.
I also put the status LED in a different spot i didn't like the idea of a random led in the dash blinking and glowing at me it was also very bright so i found a unused dash light and replaced it with the LED. used a hot sewing pin to melt two holes for the LED tags and then Joined it to the AEM controller and super glued the bulb in place and it works perfect with the system on its dull till it sprays then its as bright as the other lights on the dash looks almost factory.
4 bottles of pre-mixed water/meth and a flow control solenoid.
hopefully i can finish everything tonight at the workshop and Dyno it and see if it makes any difference in the end i really want to test it on a 30+deg day cause last time i went racing it was stupidly hot
The turbo only just fits a AVO manifold there is barley any air-gap. My exhaust ports are black as hell they are a glossy back but dry not wet so i think there has been oil leaking from my rocker cover and pooling between the ports and seeping into my exhaust ill button everything up and leak-down test it before i push it to make sure it isn't valve stem seals but i doubt all 4 cylinders would die at the same time.
I am going to order a new .86 rear housing and the external wastegate today
01-28-2018, 11:43 PM
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