Nice. How are you connecting the AN lines to the hardlines.
If they are poly bushing arms then yes, add zerks. |
Hey Cyber that is definitely an awsome car, so fast. You have set a new build standard for me I think. Great to meet the mind behind it too, it was a blast!
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1291543)
Nice. How are you connecting the AN lines to the hardlines.
If they are poly bushing arms then yes, add zerks. The -6AN lines are 120" so they'll run to the front of the car, to the regulator and the rail. I think I'll be using the FM dual feed rail since everything is packaged to accept AN fittings, but for the stock rail, I imagine one could use the 5/16" SAE to AN adapter, but the return from the NB pulse damper/fpr might be tight. I'll post parts and final configuration when I turn the car down for a couple weeks. There will be multiple projects at the same time including sending my exhaust back to Abe/Artech for some mods and a new QUIETER MT.net approved muffler.
Originally Posted by lvw
(Post 1291682)
Hey Cyber that is definitely an awsome car, so fast. You have set a new build standard for me I think. Great to meet the mind behind it too, it was a blast!
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Ahh, didn't know you were running AN6 the whole way, thought you were doing hardline stuff.
I'm using an adapter that goes from the stock FPR port to NPT, and then putting a NPT to AN adapter. Its a turbosmart TS-0402-1002 Here is my crazy spreadsheet of all my fuel system stuffs. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing It includes bulkhead fittings to run AN lines all the way to the pump. |
Hey, question. Friend of mine has a 1.6L Miata right now with the MSM trans and diff. It wears an FM turbo kit and is tuned on an MS2e I believe. He recently wrecked it on the track so being rebuilt at Planet Miata ATM but he wants to build a 1.6 in the meantime, and I'm trying to convince him to build a 1.8 instead. Aside from having to change the manifold, what else would he have to do? I know the head won't fit, so he'd need a long block 1.8. He already has the 949racing mounts, which probably wouldn't fit either.
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Originally Posted by Mazdaspeeder
(Post 1291786)
Hey, question. Friend of mine has a 1.6L Miata right now with the MSM trans and diff. It wears an FM turbo kit and is tuned on an MS2e I believe. He recently wrecked it on the track so being rebuilt at Planet Miata ATM but he wants to build a 1.6 in the meantime, and I'm trying to convince him to build a 1.8 instead. Aside from having to change the manifold, what else would he have to do? I know the head won't fit, so he'd need a long block 1.8. He already has the 949racing mounts, which probably wouldn't fit either.
Tell him I'll buy his 949 1.6 mounts asap. |
Is there a downside to not bending/running hardlines? I just figured the braided AN hose will over more flexible routing and potentially fewer failure points. The only gripe I have at the moment is the placement of the FPR on the NA8 rail on the NB motor with a Square Top. That manifold eats up space.
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No braided is fine. I just mean stock hardlines, which is what I'm planning on running at the moment.
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Originally Posted by Mazdaspeeder
(Post 1291786)
Hey, question. Friend of mine has a 1.6L Miata right now with the MSM trans and diff. It wears an FM turbo kit and is tuned on an MS2e I believe. He recently wrecked it on the track so being rebuilt at Planet Miata ATM but he wants to build a 1.6 in the meantime, and I'm trying to convince him to build a 1.8 instead. Aside from having to change the manifold, what else would he have to do? I know the head won't fit, so he'd need a long block 1.8. He already has the 949racing mounts, which probably wouldn't fit either.
I typed up a long response, but I decided to just cut to the chase as Aidan already addressed it beautifully. 3 wires - 1.6L TPS to 1.8L TPS 2 wires - VVT (optional) 4 wires (optional) - 1.6L CAS to NB style Crank/Cam sensor 2-4 wires - Ignition depending on whether keeping batch or going sequential So a 1.8L would take modifying 5-15 wires. And engine mounts. If ignition wiring is too scary, which it shouldn't be, then he can always just use his stock cas on the exhaust side of any 1.8L. Technically he could still use the 1.6L alternator, waterpump pulley but I don't know why that'd be a benefit. I'll do the wiring in an evening if he builds the 1.8L |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1291823)
No braided is fine. I just mean stock hardlines, which is what I'm planning on running at the moment.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1291828)
I typed up a long response, but I decided to just cut to the chase as Aidan already addressed it beautifully.
3 wires - 1.6L TPS to 1.8L TPS 2 wires - VVT (optional) 4 wires (optional) - 1.6L CAS to NB style Crank/Cam sensor 2-4 wires - Ignition depending on whether keeping batch or going sequential So a 1.8L would take modifying 5-15 wires. And engine mounts. If ignition wiring is too scary, which it shouldn't be, then he can always just use his stock cas on the exhaust side of any 1.8L. Technically he could still use the 1.6L alternator, waterpump pulley but I don't know why that'd be a benefit. I'll do the wiring in an evening if he builds the 1.8L |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1291830)
Either way, tell him to sell me his 949 mounts.
(Aidan you have 1.aids L? :likecat:) |
Yes. For the time being. I have 2 non-functional vvt engines in my garage. And not enough funds.
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How much does it cost to set up a diff? I got a quote of $500 (I'm supplying parts sans shims).
Clutch is also engaging quite high and at times I wonder if I even need to press the pedal to shift. Maybe I'll bleed the brakes, but I fear maybe it's time for a new clutch. Not sure if I'll return to the Competition Stage 4. Any ideas? I have a feeling my car is going to have some serious down time with a clutch job, diff, subframe, control arm and fuel mods to be done. I need to tidy up the cold side intercooler piping and then start looking for a place to fix some rust. |
Ed got his setup for $300 I believe. Call around.
Twin disc, do eeet. |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1293879)
Ed got his setup for $300 I believe. Call around.
Twin disc, do eeet. How often do folks JUST replace the clutch disk and resurface flywheel? It seems components are floating around as though you can replace bits separately. |
The ceramic is supposed to last forever. Organic not super long. I just got new friction material on my discs for $100.
I don't see why you couldn't just replace the disc. |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1293907)
That's a lot of dosh. How long they last? I think the only other option I have is the ACT XTG6 6 puck sprung.
How often do folks JUST replace the clutch disk and resurface flywheel? It seems components are floating around as though you can replace bits separately. |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1293917)
FWIW I'm going to buy and install that puck disk on my ACT extreme pressure plate sometime. Mine slips with the organic disk now. I'm keeping the stock flywheel weight so no twin disk for me.
Might be better for me to invest in the ACT. My flywheel has already been resurfaced once, is there a limit or thickness measurement one should abide by? Or FM Happy Meal 2 for daily drivability I have a spare valve cover to powdercoat. Opinions on colors? candy purple, bright orange, puke green, white, classic/black/red, others? |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1294140)
I have a spare valve cover to powdercoat. Opinions?
I've always been a fan of wrinkle red and wrinkle black when done correctly. |
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