|
Turbo Smurfette - RETIRED - Built VVT with EFR6758 and Flex Fuel
After 7 years, lot's of fun and learning, it's time to move on and learn something else. This car has been retired and parted out. Everything in this thread is a snapshot of it's glory.
I've recovered over $32,000 in selling parts to put towards other projects including restoring an old Datsun. RIP Smurfette...you've been good to me https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ef811641a9.jpg 2019 Setup: VVT HEAD Supertech +1mm O/S Intake and Exhaust Valves Supertech Double Valve Springs - Heavy Port and polish Tomei VVT Cams Shim under bucket conversion Square Top intake manifold Skunk2 64mm Throttle Body Coolant reroute BLOCK Supertech 8.6:1 Pistons 84mm Bore Eagle forged rods ACL Race Bearing kit Boundary Engineering oil pump +1 shim SADFab D585 LS Coil Brackets Injector Dynamics ID1300cc injectors FuelLab fuel pressure regulator Deatschwerks DW300 Fuel Pump Cast Impeller water pump Fluidampr Crank Pulley + FM trigger wheel TURBO Borg Warner EFR6758 0.8A/R Twin Scroll Borg Warner 90° Outlet Compressor Cover Ridge Fabrication Top Mount Ram Horn twin scroll manifold ARTech Turboback Exhaust with MT.net approved muffler Custom Bell Engineering intercooler DRIVE NB1 6 Speed OSGiken + 3.63 Final Drive Twin Disk Clutch with Carbon/Kevlar friction material HANDLING NB Manual Steering Rack *Rare OEM* Trackspeed 11.75" Wilwood front brakes M-tuned adapter Sport Brake rear Xida Gen 2 800f/500r RacingBeat 1.125" front sway bar 14mm rear sway V8Roadsters front subframe V8Roadsters tubular control arms Singulär Backing Plates/Brake ducts Bauer Extended Lower Ball Joints ELECTRONICS Brain Built MS3x, knock module, full sequential Flex Fuel Sensor Innovate ECF-1 Wideband and Ethanol gauge Revlimiter Warbird gauges STRI DSD SLMII - Boost, EGT, Oil Press, Oil Temp OTHER BlackbirdFabWorks GT3 roll bar Hard Dog Door Bars Lotus Elise Sport Seats with flipside brackets 15x9 6UL with 245/40r15 Hankook RS4 NA8 Gas Tank with complete -6AN Line conversion Singulär Hood Vents Soft top removed Quilted door panels and parcel shelf (DIY; built not bought) KGWorks black instrument cluster panel NB1 Fog Bezels in NA bumper for Brake Ducting 2018 Setup: Old Stuff (Blown up): Hello all, I've been convinced to building a 1.8L as opposed to my prior 1.6L plans. I was able to score a block and crank locally, and a buddy was able to pick up an EFR6258 locally for me (from Soviet) and I am now trying to get the rest of the bottom end bits figured out and ordered. I need to sell a set of brand new in box FM Wiseco 1.6L turbo pistons, I wish I could just trade them for the 1.8L pistons, but I guess i'll just be taking a loss on this one. Such is life. So...parts I have (or have purchased and am just waiting for arrival): 95 1.8L bare block and crank 99 Head/VICS Intake Manifold MSPNP Gen1 Innovate MTX-L Wideband Parts to order: ARTech exhaust manifold/downpipe Pistons of some variety (leaning toward Supertech) Eagle/Manley rods FM 'rebuild kit' for gaskets and bearings FM 1.8 swap kit Oil Pan/pickup Boundary Engineering Oil Pump (what advantage is there to run higher oil pressure?) Water Pump Intercooler bits Exhaust bits Injectors Fuel Pump Clutch This will be a relatively slow build but I'll update as frequently as possible. Listing out what I'm lacking makes the task seem all the more daunting. Current issues I need to do more research on: -Running VICS and EBC from MSPNP that only has one output (or just ditch VICS?) -Properly installing the wideband, splicing existing wires since I don't have the center plug for MSPNP Gen1 kbai |
2 Attachment(s)
Today:
IAT bung was welded to an intake MSPNP is operational, car is on speed density Wideband is installed physically, but not yet wired Superfluous wiring from a shitty non-working alarm has been removed from under the dash To do: Still need to raise the car up a bit Learn the ins and outs of Megasquirt and tuning Parts aquisition https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...w-img_9683-jpg |
in for pix of IAT bung
|
Im interested in opinions on this also.
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1001889)
Boundary Engineering Oil Pump (what advantage is there to run higher oil pressure?)
|
more pics of the smurf!
|
Will snap a shot of the IAT installed by throttle body.
Wired the O2 sensor in but am having very slight variation in gauge reading and what is read in TunerStudio. I don't have the 'Calibrate AFR' feature to set the voltage for the MTX-L wideband, so I'm just using the Innovate LC-1 Default 0-5V 0.5-1.5 Lambda. Tinkered with the After Start Enrichment table and the cranking spark advance and now it fires up fine. I'm uncertain what to do now other than VE Analyzer live for some of my commute time. I've been trying to read up before I really start to blow things up. I have a pretty bad deadspot at partial throttle where the AFR fluctuates between ~14-17 Does anyone have suggestions for the Exhaust Gas Settings? EGO Sensor Type: Wide Band EGO Switch Point(V) 2.489 Ignition Events: 74 Controller Step Size: 1% Controller Authority: 5% Active above coolant temp: 160F Active above RPM: 1400 EGO correction step counter: mSec I want to learn to tune a stock motor before I really start building the turbo motor. But am just getting familiar with Datalogging and what certain values in the VE tables mean. I'm still uncertain what to change and why (i.e. when its lean in a certain spot, do you just increase the values of the highlighted cells?) |
Car bogs under partial throttle accel, and AFR seems erratic (but is fine when idle, cruising, light load). The areas where the car feels like it's bucking, the VE Analyzer flashes with an "Accel Filter"
How does one adjust load dependent fueling? |
2 Attachment(s)
My brake rotor cracked on the way home. I think the caliper got stuck and the pad just dragged for a while on highway. I've ordered new front calipers and will be replacing the brakes soon.
I am going to change the ground on the o2 sensor, hopefully this will keep it from sweeping erratically. Trying to strike a deal with Hobbs on his 1.8 block. Ordered some conversion parts from Flyin' Miata and some gaskets. Sent payment to Abe for an EFR top mount manifold and downpipe. Things on the horizon: Raise the car + Outer Tie Rods + Alignment Clutch/flywheel selection Fuel Pump Injectors Intercooler sizing/piping |
Updated list of purchased parts:
'99 Motor - 99 Block and crank - Wiesco 8.5:1 - Scat rods with ARP hardware - ACL Race bearings - Main/Rod/Thrust - ARP Main Studs - 1.8 Crank scraper '99 Head -Supertech +1mm valves -stock valvetrain otherwise Artech Fab turbo manifold/downpipe for EFR BW EFR6258 Toyota COPS Stuff installed in car: Innovate MTX-L MSPNP1 I still have a ton to learn, but am already fearful of potential limitations (still beyond my knowledge) of the MS1. It seems there were several things addressed with the newer generation which might be advantageous, but perhaps I haven't reached those limits yet. So while I'm sticking with the MS1, later down the line when I become more familiar/comfortable with the basics of tuning...an upgrade will be on the horizon. But for now I'm still trying to understand all there is for tuning a stock motor. Things I need to get: Harmonic damper BE Oil Pump (stock pressure?) Injectors Fuel Pump Clutch Intercooler catback exhaust 99-00 oil pan baffle |
Two months later and little progress, just purchasing and researching.
Ordered coolant lines for the turbo and a 3" exhaust. Motor should be coming with the hall sensor bits but it would be easier to run the MS1 with the CAS. I am debating biting the bullet and just getting Braineack's MS3x unit and running some extra wires for sequential injection and the 99 sensors. hmm..... |
Nice progress. From what I understand the MS1 is adequate but will never drive like stock due to certain limitations. Upgrading would probably help a lot once you have a built turbo engine in the car.
|
This build thread would be better with more pictures.
Your build set looks pretty epic. But lack of pictures is boring as i don't really care to read about pretty things, just look at them. Your engine build looks almost the same as mine. After seeing Dems valve float i decided to get some springs though. lol Get the BE street pump if it's going to be mostly a street car. I just went with the stock pressure (60psi no shims). I'm sure that's more than enough. You're doing things right though. Keep it up with the tuning, the more you do, and tinker with the more you'll learn. Just watch the AFR's. It helps to have a friend drive the car. That's what i did initially. |
Woops, forgot to update for a while.
Picked up a 6 speed and lightweight clutch/flywheel kit. Obtained a squaretop intake manifold I got all the turbo manifold and exhaust stuff from Abe at Artech, just waiting on the inconel locking hardware. Using AN6 oil feed line per Borg Warners recommendations for length and cold climate usage of turbo. I have obtained a Begi #3 intercooler and have the flyin miata silicone charge pipes, but will likely try to get the hot side fabricated out of some metal to help shed some heat pre-intercooler. It looks like until I can get an MS3 unit built for sequential injection/spark using the 36-1 trigger wheel and BP4W cam position sensor, I will just be using the old NA CAS for batch. Things on the agenda: Get a waterpump kit Find an oil pan/baffle and weld a bung for return line Motor assembly manifold came back from swaintech today https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...11883700_n-jpg |
Looking great man, get us some more pictures of the car!. Sounds like you have serious plans for this car.
|
ohh man that mani is pretty
|
4 Attachment(s)
picture was taken in between progress. as of today the motor has:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1384211673 New head gasket ARP head studs scat rods wiseco 8.5:1 pistons Head was installed Water pump installed Boundary Engineering Oil Pump installed Timing belt/pulleys SuperMiata Damper Racing Beat sandwich adapter accomodating an AN6 feed line for turbo valvecover and upper belt cover it got dark so I had to stop. Still waiting on an oil pan and baffle. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1384211994 |
I came.
|
Looks great. Don't forget that FM ninja tool wedged in those cam gears ;)
|
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1072471)
Looks great. Don't forget that FM ninja tool wedged in those cam gears ;)
I love the way the motor looks with the belts and pulleys exposed. I don't have the center/lower covers but I'll have to source them to set timing. Probably safer to have them anyways but eh. Trying to figure out how I want to proceed on the fuel rail. I need to find spacers and bolts to mount them, and obtain a 1.8L FPR. |
10 Attachment(s)
Have a little problem.....
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...219_191345-jpg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...219_191356-jpg |
Minor problem :wink:
What's you plan of attack? |
Probably shorten by a centimeter amd cock it 45 degrees, I kust have to throw on the a/c compressor to check it doesn't interfere with anything else.
The turbo has been clocked amd I'm figuring out plumbing to the turbo. Pressure sensor will hang from a sandwich plate while the oil port on the side of the block will be a dedicated feed to turbo. Bspt to npt adapters (and vice versa) have been ordered to facilitate the fittings amd AN lines. Just gotta place the oil return, drill and find a welder to weld a bung on Pictures up soon. |
Why not flip the mixing mani? with that header I'd wanna keep the water as far away as possible.
|
I was thinking about that, but wasn't sure what to do with the return for the heater core.
I just read recently that for those who don't use the heater core one could tap and just plug that hole, but maybe I could get a 180° AN/hose fitting and hook it up somehow |
I feel like I've posted this a million times, but I clamp a 90* on to the heater core, run it underneath the brake booster, zip tie it to the edge of my master cylinder brace, and down into a "T" in the lower radiator hose. It's a long line, but a single piece that stays away from anything hot, it's never gotten in the way, and has never caused me any issues.
I also like the simplicity of the lower radiator line, just a 90* and a coupler after the T. Pictures say a 1000 words, but I can't seem to find any. |
Thinking about suggestions made by 18psi and Curly.....
.....can I just use the heater core as the source for coolant to run through the turbo? I can run a braided hose from the heater core to the turbo and use hose fittings to adapt it to AN6 to attach to the banjo bolts I already have. Then from the turbo I can do as Curly said, and just T into the coolant inlet hose? |
I may end up having to sell everything because my school decided to not pay me since I finished my graduate course-load a semester early.
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...e-build-77016/ |
Dude.....Don't sell.
There's gotta be a way to get out of the situation without selling this awesome setup |
I'm seeing how long I can hold out. I NEED to procure a job for graduation before my student loan payments kick in. The income I was expecting this semester would have been my cushion savings until I got a job, but if I take a gamble and it takes longer to find employment, I have to liquidate locked assets.
I am almost tempted to just bite the bullet and finish it. Tune it, enjoy the fruits of labor before selling the whole thing at a loss. It's easier to sell everything at once than to part things out and sit on odds and ends for a year. |
2 Attachment(s)
So, slowly but surely I'm trying to continue with this build.
New: -Installed a Walbro 190HP fuel pump, swapped for an aluminum radiator with the Flyin' Miata Stage 2 Airflow kit and wired the fans with a relay to run parallel. -Installed AWR sway brackets, hopefully gaining clearance between the sway bar and A/C compressor on the BP4W -Mounted/balanced Direzza ZII's on summer wheels My under tray was trashed and broken in several spots, there was no way for me to mount it back up. I ordered a new one, but driving around, i notice the temps are a bit higher than normal. The fans are running constantly, resulting in a drained battery. I hope the cooling is rectified by the under tray such that the fans don't have to work so hard to cool the radiator, thus saving my puny NA6 alternator until I swap motors. It reads under 11 volts sitting; after a jump start, voltage spikes up to 14.3 volts, but fluctuates between 11.88 and 12.00volts while the fans are running. My gauges, radio and MTX-L go fritz. I'm waiting for my oil pan to come back with a oil return bung welded to it then I need to find a place to do the actual swap. Anyone in New England willing to loan me a driveway or garage for a couple days? In and out swap. Motor+6spd all in one go with just a couple merged wires. I'm tired of snow tires https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395083489 |
Welcome back Psyber! Looking forward to more updates!
|
Glad to see you are keeping it. I'd like to see this thing making >300whp personally.
|
I can finish the motor for sure, it's practically done. I just need a space to swap it. My current location has no driveway or garage :(
|
2 Attachment(s)
The motor is done!
I just have to get a return hose for the turbo, find a pigtail for the cam position sensor, and transfer a sensor from the 1.6L motor during the swap. Anyone in New England willing to loan out their garage or driveway so I can plop this in? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396117997 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396117997 |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1116226)
The motor is done!
I just have to get a return hose for the turbo, find a pigtail for the cam position sensor, and transfer a sensor from the 1.6L motor during the s] Not sure what they look like but just an option for yah. |
I appreciate the offer!
I need the CMP pigtail since the bp4w uses a sensor by the cam gear. I think I'm going to have to start this off running batch fuel/spark until I can get the plug and then wire fore sequential at a later date. It will be easier in the interim to get the motor broken in and running since I can just manually enter settings for the 36-1 wheel. According to Brain, I'll have to take a composite log so a code can be developed to support the 36-1 with stock cam gear to utilize sequential. |
If anyone that follows this thread is knowledgable with wiring between miata's, can you please check out this thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...5/#post1117257 I'm hoping to have this all markered before I try to swap this weekend. I need to ensure that they are connected correctly. ____________________________________ For the Crank/Cam signal Stock 1.6L CAS: black w/ light green stripe = Ground white w/ red stripe = +12V white = crank signal yellow w/ blue stripe = cam signal on the BP4W Crank Sensor: White w/red stripe = +12v Black w/blue stripe = ground Grey w/ Red = Crank signal on BP4W Cam Sensor: White w/red stripe = +12v Black w/blue stripe = ground Grey w/ Blue = Cam signal essentially, I can split the power and ground from the stock CAS and wire it into the respective white/red and black wires on the BP4W sensors, then just hook up [NA6:white to BP4W:grey/red] and [NA6: yellow/blue to BP4W: grey/blue] ____________________________________ For IACV just connect the wires as polarity doesn't matter?
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 5233397)
On the stock '99 harness, the orange wire is positive and the violet / red wire is negative, from the point of view of the IAC valve.
Also, I agree that the valve should be insensitive to polarity, as it's just a simple solenoid. ____________________________________ TPS NA6 Red = 5v reference NA6 light green/white = TPS signal NA6 black/green = Ground BP4W Light Grn/Red = 5v reference BP4W Green/Black = TPS signal BP4W Black/Red = Ground
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 940132)
Try this:
Code:
TPS Function Harness____________________________________ Electronic boost control solenoid Is there a switched 12v source I could use for the EBC? I am pretty sure I can hijack one of the wires back to the ecu and relocate it to be used for Megasquirts Boost Control function. I think that's it for the wiring. As I recall the fan switch that was at the front of the block is now obsolete since megasquirt controls the output. ANY insight or correction to the above would be greatly appreciated |
Motor looks great. I can't wait until I have a complete long block on a stand like that!
|
Yea but the wiring is a nightmare. My pigtails don't match any factory colors and no one seems to have pictures of their configuration readily available
|
Awesome photos. This is going to be absolutely epic.
Any progress on the job front so you can keep the car? |
Still applying all over the place. One opportunity might land me at ZF in Germany...I don't think my car would be TÜV approved.
Have any leads for a mechanical engineer? |
Unfortunately I don't. I'm sure you'll find something though, from what I understand that's super in-demand isn't it??
|
That's what they tell us, then no company seems to want to hire. There is still another two months till 'hiring season' so I'm sure once graduation rolls around, companies will be sending their offers.
we'll see. |
Hope so man. Looking forward to videos of you enjoying this thing at high boost levels.
|
shit man just got your PM, i'll try to snap a pic of my TPS and IAC wiring. I used the OEM 90 CAS to run my bp4w so I'm no help with any of the cam stuff.
|
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1118485)
shit man just got your PM, i'll try to snap a pic of my TPS and IAC wiring. I used the OEM 90 CAS to run my bp4w so I'm no help with any of the cam stuff.
|
Leveraging this information:
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...e2/#post941776 The TPS in my BP4W, pins from top to bottom, and what they match w/ on my weirdo pigtail: signal (brown/yellow stripe) ground (orange) vref (pink/black stripe) HTH |
2 Attachment(s)
thanks so much!!
did you run the front crank/cam sensor from the stock CAS plug or did you re-use the NA CAS Yesterday with the help of some awesome folks, we were able to pull the old motor and install the new one w/ the 6 spd as well as the turbo, downpipe and intercooler. I have to extend a couple wires and merge the TPS and CMP/CKP stuff and figure out which wire to piggback for power and ground back to the MS for boost control. The hot side charge pipe is proving tricky since there isn't much room to work with since I'm determined to keep AC, and I'm not an NB so I don't have access to any open space behind the headlight. The coolant inlet on the radiator also points at the elbow to the throttlebody so I have to get creative there. I hope it runs today so I can figure out which breakin method I want to use. But I have to get crank signal in the very least. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...w-img_6822-jpg |
I've installed the NA CAS.
|
Man, i'm feeling pretty defeated.
We were able to trouble shoot the starter not working, and get the oil primed but the fuel pump won't prime and I cannot get the trigger wheel to register in Tuner Studio. Brain suggested I jump the fuel pump through the AFM, but I don't really know what this means. I no longer have the AFM connector and it primes if I plug MS1 back in. pulled a plug and I don't have spark or fuel...on the plus side, TPS works wonderfully! |
Going to try again once more tonight.
The plan: EBC reassign 2k (Lt Green/Red)to MS3 as EBC (-) Tap Diagnostic Connector (White/red) as EBC (+) Fuel Pump Connect 2o (red) to supply ground to light green which are both on the AFM wiring I hope we can get spark to work. But then again, I am unsure if I overwrote the map on MS3 because I'm an idiot having updated Tuner Studio and the opening screen came up different that what I was used to when I had MS1. I may need a basemap to start over from scratch. I noticed an oil leak somewhere on the bell housing. I don't know the source. Motivation is diminishing and I have to get this car out of this garage. |
Pulling for you man. Wish I had a clue so I could help.
|
2 Attachment(s)
Tonight offered no progress. No crank signal...Therefore no spark or fuel.
thanks to Scott, fuel pump primes. Got ebc wired up. Crank sensor is getting 12v and ground. It's wired through the cas wiring. I just dont know what I need to do for the MS3 unit to see it |
Turned R56 pot 3.5 turns clockwise and have awesome cranks signal.
Unfortunately, now the problem has moved onto ignition. Set up for batch fire, only cylinders 2 and 3 are sparking but 1 and 4 are dead. I switched the coils from 1/4 to 2/3 and they also work...so that rules out bad coils. Continuity across the COPS harness is fine so it's not that. Is it a positive pulse being sent to trigger the coils? I just don't know if I stick a multimeter on it, it would be too fast for it to register. Is there a way to make sure it isn't the BrainMS3? |
So I got it working by switching to Wasted COP and using Spark C to trigger cylinder 1 and 4.
After a quick start, I notice it leaking oil. Somewhere in the area of the alternator tab. I don't know if it's the oil pump itself not sealing or if its the crank seal. At this point I'm thinking of throwing in the towel and just taking it to a shop. I feel I've overstayed my welcome at my buddies place and I really don't want to put them through another engine removal. I saw another thread mentioning oil leaking around the alternator but all the photos are broken. Any ideas? |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1121176)
So I got it working by switching to Wasted COP and using Spark C to trigger cylinder 1 and 4.
After a quick start, I notice it leaking oil. Somewhere in the area of the alternator tab. I don't know if it's the oil pump itself not sealing or if its the crank seal. At this point I'm thinking of throwing in the towel and just taking it to a shop. I feel I've overstayed my welcome at my buddies place and I really don't want to put them through another engine removal. I saw another thread mentioning oil leaking around the alternator but all the photos are broken. Any ideas? 1. Pull Cam Cover. 2. Pull lower Plastic Cam Cover. 3. Inspect for oil around cam cover gasket area. 4. Check oil relief valve for oil 5. Check behind cam gears for oil. Basically, if you have an oil leak near or above the same level as the water pump pulley, you shouldn't have to pull the motor/front subframe. If it's below that... welp... Bear in mind that's talking about the SOURCE of the leak. Most common is the Cam Cover Gasket. I've never had luck hitting the designated "RTV Here" corners, even using an OEM gasket. Always wound up doing mine this way: 1. Clean the cam cover gasket seating area on the cam cover. 2. Apply RTV to the cam cover gasket seating area. 3. Install Gasket. 4. Clean head - Cover gasket seating area. 5. Apply RTV to exposed side of cam cover gasket, including plug gaskets. 6. Apply RTV to both cam carriers, and the rear CAS area, adding a bit more to the area where the half moon meets the flat plane of the head. 7. Carefully set the cam cover 8. Tighten in a spiral, just like head bolts. Go through this sequence 4 times before you torque the bolts down. Did you put the motor together yourself? Are the Cam Carrier Seals new? Did they use hylomar, or RTV when they set the cam carriers? Hint: Q-Tips are there to show you where the oil is; it's a new build, so you should pay attention to clean oil, or wet oil. Don't pay attention to greasy sludgy crap, that's been there for years. (Unless it's "wet") |
Thanks for the response!
I'm really not sure if it's the valve cover gasket as the side of the block is pretty clear. It's localized to the driver side and I cannot see behind the cam gear because of that black plate that the timing covers are bolted onto obstructs the view. The motor is brand spanking rebuilt and completely clean. It's difficult to see because the block has been painted glossy black (bad idea in retrospect) From pulling the timing cover, I don't see any oil near the water pump. Just down by the alternator tab. Q-tips seem like a great idea, probing hard to reach areas for oil. It also only leaks when engine is running (so under pressure) which leads me to believe in oil pump :( |
1. Watch This:
2. Read This: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...t-46614/page2/ 3. Check your shit. (If the wrong size bolt is installed, I think it will still seep out) 4. If it isn't there, do the following: 4a. Clean off the front of the engine. 4b. No, really clean it. 4c. Done cleaning? Clean behind the black cover as well. 4d. Run Engine for a bit. 4e. Shut engine down. (This is important!) 4f. Run your thumbnail along the smooth side of your timing belt. Does it come back even slightly oily? If so, go to 4g. If not, go to 4g anyway. 4f-1 - If your finger comes back half-off, or missing massive amounts of skin, you did not pay attention to step 4e. Proceed to 4g, or to the hospital. 4g. Check the cam cover behind the cam gears. Oily? Y/N? 4h. Is a pretty cool club. 4i. Start looking, from the top of the motor down, for fresh oil. See any? Basically, if the cam belt has oil on it, and the back shield doesn't, then it probably isn't the Cam Carriers, and it probably IS the front main seal. The belt is picking up oil from backscatter from the pulley. If it's the cam carrier seals, it will backscatter to the shield and the timing belt. (most likely). If the cam belt is dry, the shield is dry, then your problem is most likely the oil pump. (It may BE the oil pump, or it simply may be a bolt ON the oil pump.) Also check the oil accessory Hex Bolt Thingy. http://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/in.../t-475466.html Ain't too many other areas that offer a chance to leak except the oil pan gaskets, and if it's one of those, may god have mercy on your soul. |
So I pulled the motor out after having investigated with UV dye. It was definitely the oil pump.
That dye was a mess; it made everything tacky and gross. It took a lot of time to clean all the surfaces from the old RTV and I put down a new bead on the oil pump, replaced the front crank seal, and reset the timing belt. I hope to god that it works this time. I seriously don't know what I'd do if it started leaking again because at this point, I couldn't have done it any other way. Hopefully back in the car tomorrow. |
Car starts. It still leaks. Again looks like the oil pump.
I don't know what to do. |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:01 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands