Turbo Smurfette - Build in progress (slow)
Seriously, I had a DE4 NB Miata guy come up to me at Road Atlanta wanting to know what I had under the hood. He had an LFX swap and I was catching and passing him on the straight by a healthy margin with my 320whp. Psyber has 100+whp more than me. Where does that leave the LFX idea? Going backwards...
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Yea, competition clutch recommended changing the disk at 0.23", there was plenty of life left. It's no longer in warranty, Flyin Miata popcorned me to Competition Clutch directly and I'll be sending it in for them to assess. If they just agree that it was overpowered, then I doubt I have any option of reimbursement or replacement, partial or otherwise.
It's just funny because it was mentioned FM used in on an in house 450whp car without issues, along with TNTUBA having used it for two seasons and that's some hard launching abuse. I expected to break my trans before slipping the clutch.
Driving home on the twin disk wasn't that bad. It's engagement after the adjustment protocol feels a bit higher than im used to, and it's as though it's fully disengaged by 1/3 pedal depression. It didn't chatter as bad as my old Stage 4 6puck competition clutch which was a nightmare.
It's just funny because it was mentioned FM used in on an in house 450whp car without issues, along with TNTUBA having used it for two seasons and that's some hard launching abuse. I expected to break my trans before slipping the clutch.
Driving home on the twin disk wasn't that bad. It's engagement after the adjustment protocol feels a bit higher than im used to, and it's as though it's fully disengaged by 1/3 pedal depression. It didn't chatter as bad as my old Stage 4 6puck competition clutch which was a nightmare.
I use these disks as a fuse. They hold GREAT when they hold, but they do wear out rather quickly. But I haven't broken a single drive train component (Other than the ears off 1 diff housing) since I went to the FM clutch.
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Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,648
Total Cats: 544
From: Northern VA
Not sure if this had been mentioned since you posted this. I have been on the same pressure plate for 2 years but the disks are a consumable for me. I get about 9 or 10 events out of a disk before it starts to slip. Pro Solo burnouts and launches are about as hard as it gets on a clutch, I also drive my car into the trailer....I'm guessing that does as much damage as anything else.
I use these disks as a fuse. They hold GREAT when they hold, but they do wear out rather quickly. But I haven't broken a single drive train component (Other than the ears off 1 diff housing) since I went to the FM clutch.
I use these disks as a fuse. They hold GREAT when they hold, but they do wear out rather quickly. But I haven't broken a single drive train component (Other than the ears off 1 diff housing) since I went to the FM clutch.
Agreed!
Took the bumper off, I can't figure out where the Supermiata radiator is leaking from. I will likely remove/and try to see if someone can pressure test it. Sent the intercooler out to fatten the inlet pipes up from 2"
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What main and rod bearing clearances are you running ive seen a lot of different setups and yours seems to be reliably running big power. Ive seen main clearance .0020-.0022 and rods .0018-.0020 come up a fair amount during searching
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Thread Starter
Elite Member
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,648
Total Cats: 544
From: Northern VA
ACL race bearings. With the next oil change, I'll be sending a sample off to Blackstone for the first time in the 3 years and ~28,000 miles on this build.
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Its all good from what i have found in my searching is below. The spec from Robello Racing seems like it would be adequate...
Robello Racing
Main .0020-.0022
Rod .0018-.0020
FSM
Main .0008-0014 .0040 max
Rod .0008-.0027 .0039 max
Soviets Miata
Main .0020
Rod .0018
Robello Racing
Main .0020-.0022
Rod .0018-.0020
FSM
Main .0008-0014 .0040 max
Rod .0008-.0027 .0039 max
Soviets Miata
Main .0020
Rod .0018
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