turbo track car bulid, because my N/A race car was too reliable... - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-30-2012, 01:19 AM   #21
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I think all MSMs have sport brakes, not sure what that does to the rears though. Again, I think they're larger than standard rear rotors. Won't be a huge problem though, they'll still larger than your 1.6s and can be balanced out with tire pressure, pad choices, proportioning valve, etc. Most people have issues with the rears being a little weak. They generally have a more aggressive brake pad back there.

As for the fans, I had the zip tied to the radiator without a shroud and they did next to nothing. It overheated, stayed over heated, and didn't cool. With the stock shrouds, I can wait a few minutes before it over heats, Turn the fans on for a minute or two, and then turn them back off*.

With a reroute, ducting, 2" ebay radiator, the above fan setup, and a mini cooper extractor in the hood, I'm 99% sure my over heating problems are gone** and those fans work wonderfully at a stop, and apparently don't interfere at speed

*they're operated with a switch

**need to have a really hot track day to be sure.
Thanks for the advice curly. Ill look into those brackets, If the mazdaspeed miata had sport brakes ill just have to use the sport rotors too.. ill try search that.

Just ordered a set of fans /shroud and a spare rad for my old man to use on his race car. (shipping to Canada sucks).. Ill hard-wire my fans in too, same ---- as my old race car.

I'm still debating on the coolant reroute if i should do one or not, as per one of savington's posts, i might just do a coolant reroute without a spacer/ and just gut the thermostat (not remove).

Part of me is not so down to spend $100 on a bloody spacer or drill/tap a hole into my head and risk a colossal fkup.

Just hope it will take less then 6 hours for it to warm up that way..
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:30 AM   #22
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Julian, you have to remember that we dont see 40+C track days like these guys do, I NEVER had a heat issue with my turbo motor with the reroute and godspeed rad with aftermarket fan starpped directly to the rad. Keep things simple here amigo before you get lost in useless details and u forget to tighten driveshaft bolts or some dumb ----....Again lol
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:50 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by miata39 View Post
Im running brota rb's 13x8 :(

So it has the 1.8 brakes in the front but not in the back, all i need is caliper brackets.

Does anyone know if there are differences in rear caliper brackets between 1.8 miatas?

There is a wrecked mazdaspeed miata and im wondering if i could use the rear brake brackets off that, or i need an n/a 94-97 NA caliper brackets.

couldnt find anything upon a search.
They might fit. I have a friend with RB's I could test if you're interested . Not going to last long on the track with a boosted Miata and 1.8L brakes.
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:10 PM   #24
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Julian, you have to remember that we dont see 40+C track days like these guys do, I NEVER had a heat issue with my turbo motor with the reroute and godspeed rad with aftermarket fan starpped directly to the rad. Keep things simple here amigo before you get lost in useless details and u forget to tighten driveshaft bolts or some dumb ----....Again lol
2010 Indy was HOT man.... my race shoe melted to my trans tunnel and it was like +35. Even 2011 Indy ended up being warm, like +27

haha, yah that's what happens when a 17 year old tries to build a race car and go racing...I also lost a wheel the same year.

Remember my pits at Indy the last 2 years? It was nothing but Italian cold cuts, long naps on the lawn chair, and watching everyone else work on their junk...
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:11 PM   #25
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You have a PM Falcon,.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:46 PM   #26
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OK just a mini update, Asthma has been killing me so i finally got a solid day of work on my car done.

Cleaned the engine bay, so much nicer!!!!!!! pictures don't do it justice.


Washed this too: my gtx in all of its rustified glory, ultra rusty. Picture is very optimistic!


Cleaned up the Intake manifold, painted, cleaned, rewired injectors + loom...
before:



After!!!

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Old 04-03-2012, 12:42 AM   #27
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No one has flamed me/talked trash about anything yet..... Are you guys trying to be nice or give me the silent treatment? lol...

+1 for autokonexion, n2 kit came in today got nailed with an $89 brokerage fee. here are some pics just wanted to see what it looked like dont mind the 5 min mock-up-job.



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Old 04-03-2012, 01:22 AM   #28
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Curious as to why the 13" setup instead of 15" for track. I would understand for autocross, but not track.

Work looks good so far!
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:45 AM   #29
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Curious as to why the 13" setup instead of 15" for track. I would understand for autocross, but not track.

Work looks good so far!
Thanks! my reason: cost and gearing,

the brota rb's were ultra cheap, so were the 13x10" slicks. Also the car had much faster lap times with 13's then 15's, better gearing, lighter, etc.

i have 2 sets of 15's with r's on them worst case scenario.
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Old 04-18-2012, 02:30 AM   #30
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Not alot has been done to the car lately. School has kicked my ***.

Regardless,
Gauge Panel


Header Wrap , no more 2nd degree burns on my foot or ruining my Puma races shoes! Also going to heat tape near the footwell.


P.S Delete ( i hate the feeling of P.S on the race track. God i hope its not too hard to turn with the 13x10" slicks)


Soldered connections in the wiring harness... yada yada if i hear i should of crimped them one more time I'm going to snap.


Here are some of my current difficulties.

Trying to figure out which chip number my LINK ECU is.... have no clue how though,


My link is wired for electronic boost control right now, however the previous owner put a MBC on instead... here is the boost controller solenoid it looks pretty gross. How would i ago about replacing this sucker or should i just run an MBC instead?


As for my other difficulties I'm trying to figure out which way to best do the coolant reroute, this build was pretty much inspired by genesplicer's (and curlys)... hes posted pics of his blockoff plates so I'm going to try and copy what hes doing.

Also trying to find a way to best wire in a manual switch for the fans, with an indicator light that lights up when the fans are working.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:40 PM   #31
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Ok, im going to keep this short and sweet. Stop posting lots on this bulid thread from lack of interest/help/guidance/opinion. Is ok, its nothing special regardless. I just thought id finish it maybe it will help someone somewhere down the road.

Here is my gypsy coolant reroute. Used gutted thermostat. Cheap/ water temp stayed at 185F on 50 min races. Plug on water neck was from spare block.
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Car night before race, final engine shot with custom intercooler piping.
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Video of car in action, shows up at around 4:10 passed camera car (turbro miata) later passed m3 and wrx.


Things Ive Learned:
1) FM makes awesome ****. Their turbo/downpipe/exhaust/and link ECU are awesome. SO much hate for running the link but fact of the matter is it works flawlessly, was easy to use and tune,

2) Turbo's can be reliable if you dont cheap out on stuff. Mainly intercooler/piping/rad/and supporting stuff like new wires/coil/plug/fuel filter/lines/cas/gaskets etc.

3) Its only running 7psi at the moment stock 1.6L. I wouldnt put to much more power in a miata because i feel reliablity would go down and it would be hard to utilize 100% of the power 100% of the time (unless i run stupid big brakes/massive rims/etc.


Challenges Faced Ahead

1) finding good brakes to fit under 13" tires. Bought alot and i mean ALOT of star mazda takeoffs for $2.50 a tire. (13x8) Much more grippier then 15" RA1'. Will not give up that grip for that price

2) suspension. I need better suspension mainly coilovers on a gypsy budget.


Also sorry for the getto pics. If anyone wants to see nice ones ill pull out my new camera.

The End.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:43 PM   #32
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Just a side note, going to get alot of lip for the coolant reroute i made, note ***car took 2 pace laps to fully warm up, while also warming up brakes and tires.
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:42 PM   #33
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13" slicks sounds like a great way to have cheap fun. And nice work doing everything yourself and making it reliable. There's definitely a lot to be said for knowing you can hammer your car and have a minimal chance of stuff falling off!
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:36 PM   #34
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That's no reroute...

It appears that all you've done is move the ECU's temperature sensor to the front.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:05 PM   #35
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That's no reroute...

It appears that all you've done is move the ECU's temperature sensor to the front.
threw you off by accident, mybad.

Engine bay shot was done before the coolant reroute.

-Julian.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:06 PM   #36
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Have you upgraded to inconel studs yet? Are you running faster times then spec miata?
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:07 PM   #37
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13" slicks sounds like a great way to have cheap fun. And nice work doing everything yourself and making it reliable. There's definitely a lot to be said for knowing you can hammer your car and have a minimal chance of stuff falling off!
Thanks and it felt good! I thought it would be alot more fragile then it really was, i bagged this thing as hard as my N/A one!
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:24 PM   #38
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Have you upgraded to inconel studs yet? Are you running faster times then spec miata?
Actually no i have not... I'm completely baffled. 6-7 different race days and about 2 months of daily driving and they wont back off.

Yes, much much quicker then a spec miata. Although there is only about 2-3.

spec miata: 2:04
me: 1:49.8

Our track has 3 really long straights though.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:33 PM   #39
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Actually no i have not... I'm completely baffled. 6-7 different race days and about 2 months of daily driving and they wont back off.

Yes, much much quicker then a spec miata. Although there is only about 2-3.

spec miata: 2:04
me: 1:49.8

Our track has 3 really long straights though.
Wow I am surprised that you have not had any issues yet. Everything else on the car looks good. I would upgrade to those just as a precaution and then just keep driving.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:42 PM   #40
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Wow I am surprised that you have not had any issues yet. Everything else on the car looks good. I would upgrade to those just as a precaution and then just keep driving.
I think it has something to do with the fact that i don't run a gasket. I don't understand it. I plan to upgrade the studs and ceramic coat all the hot bits.

Cast on Cast, cools and heats at the same rate and also doesn't leave any gap in between the turbo and manifold for vibration or expansion differentials.
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