borka

iTrader: (1)

Here is where i bought it from:
Industrial injection
1-800-955-0476
Gavin

Ask for Gavin, and tell him its a Miata racing "special price" he will know what you are talking about.

My 6258 T25 .64 AR cost me $1254 brand spanking new, and they are actually one of the top dealers with BW.
I would imagine a 6758 would cost similarly. maybe a bit more.

also a 6258 is good for about 400HP. Greg on the car passion channel got like 415hp out of his 6258. so you might consider going this route, unless you want 450+ hp headroom.

LTurner1

Thanks for the heads up, I'll get in contact with him.

It's likely that I'll want the headroom. I must be crazy but I wanted this build to be exactly that.

LTurner1

Made the journey this weekend to go and collect the subframes and wishbones, made a weekend of it and spent a couple of nights in Cambridege. And then stopped by somewhere else on the way back to collect some P5 frame rails.



All in all a good weekend, I've started writing a list of TODO jobs on the car and each time I write one I think of another 10 surrounding it! I'm hoping to start removing everything soon, having never removed an engine, subframe or diff before then logically I imagine it to go something like drop the diff -> remove engine, gearbox and brakes, drop both subframes?

Here's a few pics of Cambridge, if you ever come over to see England/UK I highly recommend making an effort to go there for a couple of days. Maybe by the time you get here the grass will be green again, it's looking pretty scorched at the moment.



-Lew

LTurner1

Spent a couple of hours in the garage last night, I think the only way I'm going to tackle this build is to keep spending time in the garage after work rather than leaving it to the weekend.

I bought some LS coils and brackets from Hawley Performance, and with that I also got what I guess was part of the standard loom from the car/truck that used to run them. So I started by removing all the protective insulation which seemed to take forever, and eventually I ended up with this...



In my head I imagined that it might be possible to make a minimal amount of changes to get this working with the Mx5, but then I realised that I'm probably going to end up having to re-wire the lot anyway. Now, I have done some looking around, but whereas there is a sticky for converting to Toyota COPs I couldn't see a similar resource for LS Coils? My aim was to get the coils and fuel pump wired in and running before I remove the engine so I know that I can trace any issues easier when it comes to the new engine and wiring in the cam/crank sensors and NB idle valve.

After the arduous task of removing all that insulation without cutting through the wires I then trial mounted the brackets on a cam cover and head that I have lying around. Overall I'm happy for the price, I feel like there's a few things I would have changed or improved on;

LTurner1

Had an almost wife free weekend so I spent a good 11 hours or so on the car, starting to take it apart.

Started at the front, got the car jacked up, wheels off and then began with the brakes. I really thanked myself for assembling everything with copper grease, when it came to removing the stuff I'd done it was straightforward. The harder parts were the bolts that had been in situ for a lot longer... thank god for PlusGas! I had some fun removing the coil overs at the front, I found I needed to unbolt the lower ball joint to give the lower arm more manoeuvrability to get the coils out, but as I'm stripping the underside and putting the new parts on, this was likely to happen anyway, I guess I'll need to figure out a sensible way to get the coil overs back in when I refit the subframes. Considering bolting it all together off the car... maybe that will work?

Then I cracked on with the rear, much much easier, again plenty of PlusGas and patience but a considerable amount less faffing around with stuff. I also took the exhaust off and a few parts out the the engine bay which I plan to have powder coated.

Once the coilovers were off and looking in a shoddy state I must have spent 3-4 hours taking them apart and cleaning them up. Again, happy that I coated them in ACF50 when I first fit them because the dirt pretty much wiped off, although I had to get a brush to clean the threads out and also it was a mega mega ballache to split the locking collars. Has anyone used something like copper grease or similar on the collars to stop them seizing? I know they need to lock in place, but I imagine something like that would really help keep them free'd up so to speak.

The plan next weekend is to disconnect as much as I can surrounding the engine and gearbox and then the plan is the weekend after that I will remove it. Providing I can get some mates over.

And some pictures...




I have literally a million things to order and do now, caliper rebuild kits etc... this is going to get very expensive.

So yeah, that's it until next weekend. I have pre-warned my wife that she's going to help with scrubbing the underside of the car ready to be rust sealed and painted... she's not thrilled about that idea... I'm sure she'll be even less thrilled when she starts doing it!

-Lew

der_vierte

great progress so far!

haha, exactly what "we" did last year with my rusty mx5. but trust me, she will do just fine with the wire brush

she also helped me converting to poly bushings all around and before that she didn't even know what a control arm or bushing is

LTurner1

Heh... glad to know I'm not alone!

So, gearbox aside, what are the limiting factors for big power? my build is as follows:

VVT bottom end
Wiseco pistons 8.6:1 - 83.5mm
Eagle Rods + ARP hardware
ATI super damper
Billet oil pump

99' Cylinder head
Supertech +1mm intake & exhaust valves
Volvo valve springs
Square top inlet manifold
Skunk copy throttle body

ID1000's
MS3e
Hawley Performance LS coil kit
Flyin Miata intercooler - ducted

All the rotating assembly has been balanced, and I'll be switching to the cam/crank sensors over the CAS. I also get 95 Ron by default and 99 Ron if needed.

Ultimately, ignoring the gearbox (as I'm considering a K-Miata swap next year) where am I going to be limited if I was to have questionable judgement?

borka

iTrader: (1)

No such thing as vvt bottom end. All blocks are the same. Except 94 which has an oil port on exhaust side. And 01+ has a mbsp.

solid build plan. Limiting factor will be fuel quality(knock) as go north of 350hp.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Doesn't the mbsp have to be modified to use some of the ARP hardware?

Also, 95 RON is basically 91 octane right?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Yes
Yes

der_vierte

it needs to be cut slighty, yes...

solid plan, btw! what a pity we can't get E85 in central europe.

edit: six was faster! (has E85 )

LTurner1

Yeah, it's a shame regarding E85, I'm not sure what the legality of making it at home is? but to be honest that would be out of my comfort zone anyway, and I'd rather it be at the pump.

In terms of going over 350hp Borka, is that wheel or crank hp?

I was considering some kind of water/meth injection when originally planning the build but I haven't been swayed over to it yet, can it actually be done with good fail safes?
If it can then I'd also like to just use water, I don't want to be out in the sticks somewhere and need meth all of a sudden.

I'm mostly set on this manifold: https://davefab.com/shop/mx5-t25-turbo-manifold-1800cc/

borka

iTrader: (1)

I run 93 gas and "only" at about 300whp right now, and no real knock issues.

I have no personal experience with tuning 400+WHP cars and no experience with water/meth injection, so others will probably be better suited to tell you what you can realistically expect to pump out on 95 or 99 gas.

my ~350hp figure is just a roundabout number of what I saw in most dyno sheets on this site with pump gas, and higher 400+hp guys all run e85.

you'll probably hit 450ukhp on pump gas, I've heard UK dynos read 100hp higher

LTurner1

I see Savington's post here: Savingtons 452whp

With a not too different build spec from mine (I seem to have omitted some spec from the above) achieving pretty outstanding results, albeit on E85. I just wonder how far off this I would be on say 99RON. I suppose I'll have to wait and see what happens when it's built and mapped, it'd just be nice to address as many bottlenecks as possible before that point.

der_vierte

Not so many bottlenecks, if you ask me. I wouldn't use water/meth as a power adder, but to prevent it from knocking.

Who is building your DP/Exhaust? As you are from Europe, maybe go with a Kraken setup, it's nearly the same price - but for a full setup!
I also have a T25/3" Kraken setup and it's very very well made.

Michaels customer service is pretty hard to beat, too.

LTurner1

https://davefab.com/shop/mx5-t25-turbo-manifold-1800cc/

Looking at going for this. Proven good over here and they did some pretty heavy testing at the Nurburgring with it. All good. They do a 3inch downpipe to accompany it. My exhaust is actually a kraken one

der_vierte

oh man, i went a few pages back and now i see you were already running a kraken setup. stupid me

davefab mani looks good, maybe there is a way to make the kraken DP fit? i mean, a good exhaust builder should be able to?
not as clean, but could save some pennies for other bling stuff...

LTurner1

So what is the opinion on the Kraken manifolds?

I have one of his exhausts and I'm really impressed with the quality, and I'm actually now considering one of his manifolds and downpipes. borka you have one? what's your thoughts?
I'm still yet to sell my FM setup, and although that's T25 fitment, I'm guessing it'll not fit an EFR on the car in a nice way? it's also not as tubular in style as the Kraken looks.
Going for the Kraken setup would save me several hundred GBP to spend on other bits.

-Lew

EDIT: not to excite you all or anything, but I should have added that I've ordered an EFR 6758...

borka

iTrader: (1)

congrats on going with a 6758. Did you order from the place I told you about?

Kraken manifold is hands down the best cast manifold I've had. And I used begi cast and avo cast manifolds previously. Its built like a tank and flows really well. Plus it's a breeze to put on and take off. Downpipe fits great too. You'll be happy with his setup. And it's way cheaper than the tubular manifold that you linked, that doesn't even include the downpipe.

if you have an FM heatshield, it fits perfectly with the kraken setup.

LTurner1

Nope ended up finding somewhere here that had them at a good price. Should get it probably next week.

It's looking good for the Kraken setup. He is potentially looking at a bottom mount option so I'm holding off for the moment incase that comes to fruition as I really like the idea of a simple downpipe and easy heat shielding