lol this looks like one of those build threads that im going to find in 5 years and start reading it only to get to page 7 and the last post is going to be a picture of the non running car on a tow dolly saying you sold it

 

Why all the negativity?

The minitek kit literally takes all the guess work out of the swap. ​​​​

I've already paid a chunk of the kit off and when the buyer comes to take my engine I'll be half way there.

My miata has no value to me at this point. It's sentimental and no price could buy it. ​​​​​Even if it takes me a year to do this swap out of my driveway I'll still finish it, I don't abandon projects.

I've have access to a entire machine shop at work and I have all the tools required to do the swap in my basement.

By this time next year I'll have a 260hp monste​​​​r.

 

I think people arent too happy u can have an na 250+ hp car for cheaper than a k swap. Buuuuut i dont think youll make over 230 personally on the base tune. Good base for turbo tho!!! Keep building and disprove all the haters!

 

260hp in a year? plus a big heavy v6 with no room to work on anything when you mess up wiring/plumbing ****? just turbo the damn bp

 

[QUOTE=LownSlow616;1396914]
260hp in a year? plus a big heavy v6 with no room to work on anything when you mess up wiring/plumbing ****? just turbo the damn bp
[/QUOTE

In his defense its like 9 lbs heavier i think.

 

They are not very big blocks and with the aluminum oil pan and the reduced weight from the new sub frame minitek puts the swap a full 9-lbs more than stock.

Access to the wiring harness is pretty easy as long as you follow miniteks recommendation and cut a hole in your firewall next to your heater core hoses and feed the main loom through it.
The stock miata ecu mounting point is the same place you mount the new j32 ecu.

I'm hoping for around 230-240rwhp
less than 50k miles on the block
I'm going for the stock intake manifold with a pod
I'll have no mid pipe/cat. I'll have a friend weld me a custom exhaust one later.

For the $1000 extra the K swap kit costs I could buy a direct port nitrous kit with a progressive controller.

For the price to do a k swap including the cost to adapt its manifold I could almost add a supercharger

$1300 Aem ECU
$0150 Wideband O2
$0150 EV14 injectors
$0200 Ebay M90 supercharger
$0300 Misc parts, belt, intake tubing
$0500 Prankparts M90 adapter plate
OR
$0000 +$0100 for a pulley, if I just machine the M90 adapter plate myself at work


_____Total
$2,600/$2100 extra for 330-340rwhp with 5psi of boost

 

LOL at all the haters that don't have a V6 in there car. Good luck OP. Statistically you're probably more likely to not finish it, but that doesn't mean you won't. Just that many folks who bite off big projects never finish them, or are really slow to finish them. Just look at the build threads section for people who's builds are measured in years. I'm guilty too.... I would absolutely do the V6 honda if I were going to swap a honda in the car, screw a I4 when you can have a V6 that will sound better and have more displacement and more torque. Don't even care if it cost more, I'd still do V6 over another I4 swap.

 

That's all I was implying, it's a huge project and 99%of them started in the driveway don't get finished.

best of luck, watching for relults.

 

I agree. V6 is most bestest

 

Especially when the V6 doesn't need motor mounts! :troll:

 

Psh Front motor mounts just get in the way, everyone should just remove them.

I'm not worried about the lack of front mounts, minitek has had time to refine there subframe design. There is also a pretty simple mod using a small piece of steel that you can use to brace the new subframe and reinforce it. ​​​​​

I can just grab some scrap steel laying around work, cut it and use maintenances drill press to knock a couple of holes in it. ​​​​​​ I might not even bother.

 

From this day on I shall refer to this thread in case I should ever have to explain the complex mechanism of "man math".

 

Here is some motivation for you.

 

Hnggggg those noises.

 

I'd be OK with it sounding like this​​​​.

So looking at costs and how much I can pay towards the kit, I plan on having the subframe, transmission adapter plate and engine mounts shipped by April 13th.

That will eliminate the most expensive portion of the kit. Should be smooth swapping from there.


Also for those interested, minitek finished there prototype M90 supercharger kit and are in the installation and test phase.

An upgraded clutch and clutch pressure plate will probably be required. The Stock 5-6 psi of boost should generate around 330 rwhp. They will provide the correct part numbers as the clutch and pressure plate have to match up, miata clutch and Honda B series pressure plate I believe.

You'll obviously need a Standalone fuel management system, aftermarket injectors and a upgraded fuel pump. You will probably want a 6 speed unit as well as the 5 speeds will probably grenade at that point.

I've heard EV-14 injectors are cheap and should work well with the kit. (not confirmed)

 

Best of luck man, we've been running our J35A4 swap for a season now and ready for round 2. The engine is rock solid, the swap definitely takes some customization, adjustments, and fab work to get it right. but you'll find a lot of things need upgrading to make it a serious track or racecar. We are going to detune and run in GP1 this year with WRL and Group 4 with AER. Let me know if you have any questions, I never made a build thread though...

 

Thats Awesome!

Thanks for the offer for the help, I'll definitely hit you up when I run in to some trouble.


Off to remove my rims and tires.



Drilled and slotted rotors are on the buy list, I also need to touch up the paint on the calipers.





I removed the majority of the wiring harness and a few of the bell housing bolts.

 

Drilled and slotted rotors are garbage...why would you waste money on that?


Good luck with the build...need more J swaps on this site. I've raced a couple J powered cars (not miatas) and the sound is amazing...

 

To be fair I might not actually do drilled and slotted, I just want something coated so it wont rust as bad

I dont have any exhaust plans yet but I defiantly dont plan to skimp and buy a horrible sounding fart can.

Thanks! With the NB generation starting to come down in price and go up in age I'd bet that we will see more and more swaps as engines fail and Mx5 owners look to do a more powerful conversion.

 

Does that engine poke 4 inches above the hood?