Brap-Brap

Its a cost/benefits analysis really. Spend less upfront but put forth more work yourself in making parts work.

PRL Wanted $800 for a Type-S oil pump upgrade for the Z3 motors... https://prlmotorsports.com/k24z7andk...mpswapkit.aspx

I'm still excited to see how this goes.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

PRL sales a reasonable amount of those. I use them for a number of my supplies and have visited them a few times. They are a good shop.


Also I cleaned up the thread. Please keep things on topic.

Padlock

I'm struggling to understand how this Z3 swap is going to cost you as much as it is based on your numbers, unless you are planning on buying literally every needed component BRAND NEW from OEM source

For a handy reference, all the parts I need for my K24A2 swap and my costs are located here:
Padlock's K24A2 Swap Miata Costs

With buying used or reman parts where I see fit AND spending over $500 on extra items I didn't need so far, I still should be coming in right at $9k all-in for the A2. The A2 swap should be quite a bit more expensive than the Z3 swap based on header and subframe savings alone, not to mention the engine cost savings. Preliminary estimates that I received prior to diving into the A2 was that the Z3 should have been right around $1500-2000 less.

Rhunt

Thanks!

I think I have a lot more "extras" than you do. But i have also tried to include all the small stuff that adds up, like spark plugs and an oil pressure sender for the Miata oil gauge. Take a look through my spreadsheet and see for yourself. I could definitely get the K24 in the car and running for a lot less money, but I'm trying to put together a nicely sorted car with no loose ends.

Anyhow, you can look through my spreadsheet and see what's in there that isn't necessary.

Rhunt

My kit has finally shipped!

I took one final rip through the backroads with my buddies on Sunday morning and then got to work taking the car apart, so far i've gotten the dash out and now have to deal with two wiring issues before I go any further.


The PO installed an alarm system that needs removing. I'm going to make sure the car starts after I remove it to prevent any headaches down the road. My gas gauge also stopped working a month ago so I'll sort that out as well.



Pop up headlight gang plus a 6 speed TL



So far just the intake manifold has arrived, with a note specifying it's been machined for K24z3 size injectors.

KMiata

With all the craziness surrounding the K24Z3 swap release and people pounding down our door asking for it, we didn't do a great job communicating that the Type S oil pump upgrade was also required for the K24Z3 swap. We incorrectly assumed people knew this. The required K24A2 pump kit is $315, and the K24Z3 kit is $399 thanks to some extras that are needed. We had to fight hard for that price point, since as someone mentioned above, the PRL kit is $700+ and it does the same thing.

Additionally, we'd always suggest a fresh oil pump on any used engine, so some of that cost is going to apply to any swap. Our policy has always been that we don't include OEM Honda parts in our swap packages because people either already have the stuff, prefer to source it used, or have their own connections for it. If it was standard then half our customers would be asking us to omit it from their order.

All in all, this swap is a crazy good deal for what you get. I often look at all the components and think we should be charging a lot more for everything. If we didn't have our own CNC machines in-house we would never be able to touch the current price point. So I appreciate everyone understanding that there are always some extra costs with mixed manufacturer engine swaps like this. And I'm also 100% confident that once everyone's cars are done and they have been tuned and driven, the last thing people will be thinking about is the $399 oil pump kit

Thank you all for trusting us with your dollars and your cars, and for trusting our last 6 years of experience in the K swap world. I know you'll be thrilled with the end results and I always welcome your feedback.

Brap-Brap

Hey David, glad to see the instructions for the Z3 kit are up, that should answer a lot of questions surrounding the kit.

One quick thing, the 96/97 NA Miatas actually use an auxiliary sender for the water temp gauge, and the coolant temp sensor goes to the ECU. I'm pretty sure the sender is 1/8" NPT or BSPT but i'm not 100% sure. My plan was to find/ make a M12 to 1/8 BSPT adapter to use in the Kmiata water outlet to ensure stock gauge function.

Also good to finally see the breakdown of which sensor connectors are compatible. Maybe providing it in a table/ list format with the appropriate name of connector for those who want to de-pin? For example, the alternator connector for the 09+TSX is a Sumitomo "4 pin HV .040 Female Connector keyed with bottom rib".

Rhunt

Good catch. Can I just use the coolant temp sensor from a 90-95 then? or will that not work with my cluster?

Also, PROGRESS! Got the engine out of the car this past weekend. Went pretty smoothly for my first time pulling an engine.


Now I've got a laundry list of things to do in the bay.
Also my 5 speed has a lot of odd leaks. The shifter turret seems to leak a lot, and it's not the lower dust boot (m513-17-480a) since i replaced that 2 years ago and it still isn't cracked. Anyone know the part numbers for all the seals around here?

Ted75zcar

iTrader: (2)

Might find something here

Jim Ellis

curly

iTrader: (25)

There's a crush washer available at most auto stores on the big bolt, the 4 bolt plate it RTV'd, you 100% need an output seal, and the shifter tube has some internal and external seals, none of which are serviceable AFAIK.

Brap-Brap

Nope, that tiny little sender is wired directly to the gauge cluster. I think its that way for all NAs, but I've only ever owned 97s so I can only speak for the 96/97 model year. Normal temp sensor is for ECU temperature data.

Rhunt

Engine bay has been cleaned. I bent the fuel hardlines so I can terminate them farther away from the exhaust and closer to the FPR. I bent the rear brake hardline for more clearance as well. I also shaved off a bit from the passenger side "shelf" as recommended by kmiata for clearance. I sent them a pic and they said I should have all the clearance i need.


Clean engine bay

Cut passenger side shelf

Bent hardlines

Got to work on prepping the engine. The crank pully bolt would not come out. 1/2in milwakee impact, no good, breaker bar with pipe, no good, map torch, no good. So I broke down and ordered the

Lisle 7080 big 19mm socket

Lisle 7080 big 19mm socket

that was made especially for this. Stuck it on the Milwakee impact and 10 seconds later it was off. Apparently it's the weight of the socket that does it.


Lisle 7080


Now I'm tearing down the engine and getting to work on prepping it for install. More on that later

I also painted the top pf the subframe, and some plastics around the engine bay that were either faded or had overspray from a bad repaint.

I had sent my steering rack to Miata Cage for a proper depowering and oil bung shaving, they got back to me yesterday with good and bad news.
My rack was ready and good to go, but someone in the past had been into it and managed to strip the threads on those big aluminum and caps. Weird, cause the car was totally stock when i bought it. Regardless, Sean Red loctited them and I'm good to go.


Stripped steering rack threads

tehzack

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

It's not likely that someone was in there. There is a stake on the steel tube that can damage the threads on the aluminum cap. I had the same issue on one I rebuilt recently.

Brap-Brap

Brap-Brap

Also, good idea on the fuel lines. I'll have to steal that idea come swap time.

Brap-Brap

You see this?:

hedtrip

Man that oil pan is a tight fit.
The pic of the motor in the pass seat. gives me flash back of back in the day & having a H22 in the pass of my eg hatch Ha

HawkDriver

I'm doing the same swap on my 97'. I already found an engine for $400 with 56k miles.

Rhunt

Yeah I actually talked to Stefan on IG. I'm going to test fit my oil pan over the subframe and mark it. I'll snap a few pics when I do it. I was gonna run rubber engine mounts but with how tight the clearance is now I'm reconsidering it.

That's awesome! 56k for $400 is a great deal.

In other news I got my DW200 fuel pump installed, as well as my FPR


I also started to put the clutch master cylinder in.
The stock clutch clevis (the bit that attaches the clutch pedal to the shaft that presses in the master cylinder) was a real PITA to get out. Turns out the pin not only has a C clip on the end but is also press fit in. So in the end I had to take a chisel and hammer and get in between the pin and the other part of it to separate the pin.