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Old 07-10-2010, 10:46 PM   #101
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Update for you bitches!

i drove up to the my engine builders house today to put the finishing touches on the motor and bring it home. i had to bring him the seal kit and the used timing belt and water-pump kit i picked up for 70 bucks (1k miles on it) i tell you what, i am very impressed with the time that he put into this and am very happy with it. i cant wait to get it in the car!

this is pretty much what was done to this motor:

Head:
lightly ported
bowls de-shrouded and slightly polished
viton valve seals
and a nice 5 day soak in a cleaning vat

95 Block:
balanced crank, rods and pistons (all OEM)
honed
slightly snugger piston wrings
new bearings (cant remember what he used)
block was slightly decked (used to be one of his spec blocks)
nice soad in a cleaning vat

he also took the time to walnut blast my protege valve cover

here are some piktars:

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here is what he does when he gets bored, he gave it to me cause it has a couple of nics in it. now all i gotta do is send it to knobmiester to get a 6-speed pattern engraved in it.

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Old 07-12-2010, 03:56 AM   #102
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i got a couple of dumb ?'s

my previos car was a 96 and i had to use the oil presure port for the oil feed, the block i have now is a 95 with driverside oil and water ports, one hole is bigger and the other is smaller. the small one is the oil feed port and the bigger one is the water supply port right?
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:37 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WonTon View Post
hmm which intercooler...
None of those. Look for a delta or tube/fin - they'll provide good temp drop, minimal pressure drop and allow more air flow than bar/plate to other exchangers behind.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...ht_2167wt_1167
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...#ht_1800wt_941
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...ht_2215wt_1167
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:39 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WonTon View Post
i got a couple of dumb ?'s

my previos car was a 96 and i had to use the oil presure port for the oil feed, the block i have now is a 95 with driverside oil and water ports, one hole is bigger and the other is smaller. the small one is the oil feed port and the bigger one is the water supply port right?
Yep. And if you SS want lines like I made for mine, let me know.
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:07 PM   #105
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rods and pistons (all OEM)
Why use stock rods???? Sorry if you already answered this, I was distracted by the beautiful manifold
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Old 07-12-2010, 03:18 PM   #106
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ease of use and money im sure
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Old 07-12-2010, 03:52 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorNutFD3S View Post
Yep. And if you SS want lines like I made for mine, let me know.
last night i was thinking about that, but it was 4am at that point when i was in my garage starting at the engine. (didnt want to text ya that late)

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Originally Posted by viperormiata View Post
Why use stock rods???? Sorry if you already answered this, I was distracted by the beautiful manifold
Quote:
Originally Posted by leatherface24 View Post
ease of use and money im sure
yup! readily available and my cash flow and budget at the time couldn't allow it.

Last edited by WonTon; 07-15-2010 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 07-12-2010, 03:53 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
None of those. Look for a delta or tube/fin - they'll provide good temp drop, minimal pressure drop and allow more air flow than bar/plate to other exchangers behind.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...ht_2167wt_1167
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...#ht_1800wt_941
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...ht_2215wt_1167

hmmm, i like that second one!
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Old 07-14-2010, 03:54 AM   #109
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so this is the point where i begin to get excited about all this, ARTech just gave me the word that he will be in go mode for finishing up all the parts he is making for me! god i cant wait to see what he is cookin up!

right now the only thing keeping me from getting the engine and trans into the car is a clutch and pressure-plate and i need to find some motor-mounts. after that assembly will begin!

Last edited by WonTon; 07-15-2010 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 07-14-2010, 06:55 PM   #110
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Stop bumping your thread until you have pictures of that Artech shiz
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Old 07-15-2010, 12:06 AM   #111
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shut up! those pics should be coming in the next couple days

im just trying to share my excitement!
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:53 AM   #112
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am i allowed to bump now! hehe

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Old 07-15-2010, 02:06 AM   #113
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Everything is looking **** man.

I'm still amazed at why the hell you'd choose to use stock rods after dumping so much money into everything else, but w/e.

About the manifold/downpipe:
aren't you losing the spool increase from the downpipe being super straight by having a manifold that isn't as smooth/well flowing? I mean that's a log mani replica, and LOOKS (I may be wrong on this) like it will flow similar or at least not as well as a ramhorn or absurdflow design.

Just curious
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:14 AM   #114
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im going back and forth with the whole built engine thing (but more than likely will take the plunge). if i boost the living crap out of a OEM engine and pop it it can be replaced for fairly cheap. if i get a built motor and pop it i gotta spend alot of money to build another one! as to why i didnt go with forged internals on this motor is because i didnt pay a cent for the work the guy did (no money out of my pocket except for the seals and WP/TB)

this is basically my plan. so that i dont have to keep borrowing my fathers truck to get around im taking a shortcut with the engine so i can spend my money in the more important areas. after the car is up and running, ill get another block and stock pile parts for it for a bullet proof engine. once the built motor goes in i will keep the engine i posted pics of tucked away in case i pop the built engine.




as far as the mani and DP. in theory with the manifold the way it is, because of the small volume of exhaust it will take to fill it up should be less than alot of other manifolds and will yield in an increased pressure inside the manifold before the turbo. now with the exhaust being as straight as possible should hopefully increase spool significantly by allowing the increased pressure pre-turbo to escape faster. none of this will be proven until i am able to get numbers.

i think about this like a garden hose. you take a hose with nothing on the end of it and turn the water on, the water comes out but not at a crazy high rate of speed (now take the water and aim it at a small fan to push the blades, the blades will only move so fast) now take and put your thumb over the end of it to increase the pressure build up in the hose (now aim it and the fan again and watch the blades spin faster)

Last edited by WonTon; 07-15-2010 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 07-15-2010, 10:27 AM   #115
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Very interesting. Acura did exactly the same thing on the RDX, using a valve that restricts flow to promote pressure pre-turbo, then opening and spooling the everliving **** out of it.
In fact, there's a valve type thingie we were discussing on here, where it mates between manifold/turbo and half of it opens/closes so you could do something similar on our cars.


All interesting stuff. All not proven (at least on a miata...yet). Can't wait to see results
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:08 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WonTon View Post
i think about this like a garden hose. you take a hose with nothing on the end of it and turn the water on, the water comes out but not at a crazy high rate of speed (now take the water and aim it at a small fan to push the blades, the blades will only move so fast) now take and put your thumb over the end of it to increase the pressure build up in the hose (now aim it and the fan again and watch the blades spin faster)
This is also the theory behind using 1.25" pipe weld elbows instead of 1.5". More pressure/velocity pre-turbo. I can see it both working and not working in my head. But 1.5" matches the OEM Exhaust port size almost perfectly (when smooshed oval) so that's what I use and I think most others too.
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:10 AM   #117
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Very interesting. Acura did exactly the same thing on the RDX, using a valve that restricts flow to promote pressure pre-turbo, then opening and spooling the everliving **** out of it.
In fact, there's a valve type thingie we were discussing on here, where it mates between manifold/turbo and half of it opens/closes so you could do something similar on our cars.


All interesting stuff. All not proven (at least on a miata...yet). Can't wait to see results
I think the thing you are thinking of is the coolass valve for twinscroll turbines used on nontwinscroll manifolds. IIRC There's a few T3 & T4 garrett turbines that are twinscroll. Bolt them up to a standard T3 flange with this valve inbetween...valve closes off one of the scrolls and you get kickass spool out of a bigass turbine supposedly. I forget who makes them but I'm considering trying one on my subaru.

EDIT: Sound Performance makes them. $500 though?! Damn I might just make my own. Ouch.

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Old 07-15-2010, 02:08 PM   #118
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This is also the theory behind using 1.25" pipe weld elbows instead of 1.5". More pressure/velocity pre-turbo. I can see it both working and not working in my head. But 1.5" matches the OEM Exhaust port size almost perfectly (when smooshed oval) so that's what I use and I think most others too.
i also see this working well and not so well at the same time, i just like trying out new things!
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:21 AM   #119
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ARTech is my hero!

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Old 07-21-2010, 12:43 AM   #120
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welds look the sex
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