1.6 or 1.8
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Newb
Joined: Oct 2015
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1.6 or 1.8
Hello,
I am trying to decide on my first project Miata.i am planning to adding a T25 turbo and using the car for autocross and fun. I have been looking on the forums trying to decide what is the better engine to do this to? Can anybody point me in a direction so I can decide. I know the 1.8 will have more power but is it a ton more? Is one engine able to handle the power better than another?
Thank you for your help and knowledge
I am trying to decide on my first project Miata.i am planning to adding a T25 turbo and using the car for autocross and fun. I have been looking on the forums trying to decide what is the better engine to do this to? Can anybody point me in a direction so I can decide. I know the 1.8 will have more power but is it a ton more? Is one engine able to handle the power better than another?
Thank you for your help and knowledge
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Thread Starter
Newb
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 5
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Elite Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,298
Total Cats: 884
From: Santa Clara, CA
"There's no replacement for displacement". The 1.8 is 12% more displacement, and any mod you make to the 1.6 you can also make to the 1.8, it'll always be 12% ahead. That's ignoring other differences like there being better head geometry and VVT available in the 1.8 that were never put into the 1.6 (at least, not in the US).
The theoretical advantages of the 1.6 are slim:
- it's cheaper to use a working motor that's in the car than to swap over a 1.8. (note that this only applies as long as you're not making significant mods to it)
- the 1.6 is a bit lighter
- classing rules for some theoretical race class might favor less displacement
--Ian
The theoretical advantages of the 1.6 are slim:
- it's cheaper to use a working motor that's in the car than to swap over a 1.8. (note that this only applies as long as you're not making significant mods to it)
- the 1.6 is a bit lighter
- classing rules for some theoretical race class might favor less displacement
--Ian
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It's not just the engine. Do more research.
Diff, brakes, tps, chassis, axles, TB, torsen, AFM, intake ports, alternator, and interior parts are all improved. There's more.
1.8
/thread.
Diff, brakes, tps, chassis, axles, TB, torsen, AFM, intake ports, alternator, and interior parts are all improved. There's more.
1.8
/thread.
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Find a 94 and start there, unless you like the look of the NB's better. Then get a 01-05 non-msm, for vvt goodness.
94-95.5 are OBDI and the easiest to get through emissions testing if you have that.
94-95.5 are OBDI and the easiest to get through emissions testing if you have that.
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Everything mentioned in this thread is irrelevant because it really boils down to the alternator. You don't hear anyone upgrading to a 1.6L alternator. 1.6L alternators are dink, ergo get a 1.8L. That's the only reason why a 1.8 is favored. Don't let these e-thugs yank you around.
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If you are smart the cost of turbo between a 1.6 and 1.8 is the cost of the manifold, nearly every other thing on a stock bottom end build will swap over just fine.
There's still another $1500 in upgrades you probably need on a 1.6, 1K for a torsen swap, another 500 in clutch a 1.8 would need anyway.
My 1.6 car were nearly free, all salvage and ****. I have fun with it, spends less time busted than 1.8 power chasers...
There's still another $1500 in upgrades you probably need on a 1.6, 1K for a torsen swap, another 500 in clutch a 1.8 would need anyway.
My 1.6 car were nearly free, all salvage and ****. I have fun with it, spends less time busted than 1.8 power chasers...
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It depends on your starting car, cost, and goals.
I got a super cheap (almost free) 1.6L car with some crank wobble. You can buy good 1.6L motors all day long for like $200, running, with accessories. 1.8l motors tend to be a bit more expensive. The modding cost is roughly the same if you start with a base on both ends. I built an RX7 diff for my car with a total cost of about $250. This is the clutch type LSD which many here hate. I have also pieced an almost complete turbo/kit for roughly $1200. This process has taken me a bit over a year and has me on here looking for used parts about 3 times a day. With all that said the 1.6 is going to make decent power and be relatively inexpensive, but if I could do it over again. A 94 car with the torsen is what I would do.
Two piece axles, torsen, bigger motor, no AFM, better head...ect.
I got a super cheap (almost free) 1.6L car with some crank wobble. You can buy good 1.6L motors all day long for like $200, running, with accessories. 1.8l motors tend to be a bit more expensive. The modding cost is roughly the same if you start with a base on both ends. I built an RX7 diff for my car with a total cost of about $250. This is the clutch type LSD which many here hate. I have also pieced an almost complete turbo/kit for roughly $1200. This process has taken me a bit over a year and has me on here looking for used parts about 3 times a day. With all that said the 1.6 is going to make decent power and be relatively inexpensive, but if I could do it over again. A 94 car with the torsen is what I would do.
Two piece axles, torsen, bigger motor, no AFM, better head...ect.
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 993
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From: Auckland, NZ
I run and race a 1.6. ther is nothing wrong woth them, they are cheap and make oka power.
If you had a 1.6 already I would say carry on with what you've got BUT you dont, so I agree with the others. Start with the 1.8. for reasons mentioned above. Stronger AND Torsen Diff. Bigger clutch, better brakes, TPS etc.
If you had a 1.6 already I would say carry on with what you've got BUT you dont, so I agree with the others. Start with the 1.8. for reasons mentioned above. Stronger AND Torsen Diff. Bigger clutch, better brakes, TPS etc.
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