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Old 12-11-2006, 05:38 PM   #1
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Default 1.6: AT long block, MT head?

This is all totally hypothetical, but since winter is here, I've got four months of fabrication.


Here's the story: Blew my 1.6 MT engine and thinking of swapping a T2 RX-7 13b into it. However, would a GReddy 1.6 be easier? For the 7, i'd have to fab up engine mounts, and rebuild a frankenstein trans (front bh and gears from 7, rear housing from Miata), whereas the 1.6, I'm thinking of the auto long block (lower compression) and MT head (cams). So would that be a better option than a bolt-on to a 1.6 MT engine?
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:52 PM   #2
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dropping a 13B into the miata requires a dry sump oiling system since the rotary would sit VERY low into the miata chassis. Its not worth it when you consider the cost unless you are just some rotary nut ( I know people like this )

You can use a 1.6L AT long block with a 1.6L MT head since the 1.6L MT head has better cams.
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Old 12-11-2006, 06:02 PM   #3
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What about rebuilding the oil pan? I know I can do it to clear the crossmember, and I can weld, just do not have a good welder.
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Old 12-11-2006, 06:03 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by iluvtruenos View Post
What about rebuilding the oil pan? I know I can do it to clear the crossmember, and I can weld, just do not have a good welder.
If you think you can retool the oil pan to work then go ahead and try it I suppose. I just know that the stock 13b pan will sit too low.
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Old 12-11-2006, 06:09 PM   #5
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Any good websites to read up on the rotary oiling system?
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Old 12-11-2006, 07:13 PM   #6
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Any good websites to read up on the rotary oiling system?
not that I know of, sorry.
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Old 12-11-2006, 08:32 PM   #7
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No worries. I just called up one of my friends, and he told me that the 13b oil pan does just that, hold oil, and nothing else. Meaning that a dry sump system could be made for as cheap as $30.
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Old 12-11-2006, 08:36 PM   #8
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am i missing something dont all oil pans just hold oil. or are there special oil pans that do other stuff
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Old 12-11-2006, 08:39 PM   #9
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No, on the 7 it's much easier because the oil does not have to flow through galleries into the oil pan. There's just a tube that drains the oil into it. On a piston engine, you have to accomodate for the oil draining from galleries into the pan, all that fun stuff. On the rotary, I can just extend the input/output tubes, and weld up a custom oil pan. Teehee.
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Old 12-11-2006, 10:57 PM   #10
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doesnt the AT have lower comp pistons
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Old 12-12-2006, 01:28 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Pitlab77 View Post
doesnt the AT have lower comp pistons
Ahhhhhhh ya. Thats the whole point!
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Old 12-12-2006, 01:44 AM   #12
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Ya, lower compression long block (good for boost) mated with more agressive cams. Win/win.
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Old 12-12-2006, 02:43 AM   #13
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Having seen first hand a 13b conversion take place i can tell you guys the following......

*The sump did NOT require modifying,(i guess it depends on car it came from)
*The body needed to be releived at the very top of the transmission tunnel where it meets the firewall, to clear the bell housing as does the area around the gear shifter area...this is because the rotary engine "crankshaft" sits slightly higher than a piston engine so the gear box is held slightly higher although it retains the PPF on a frankenstein gearbox.
*The crossmember was modified to fit the engine....new engine mounts were made to come forward and down to meet the front mounting points on the engine.
Ill tey to get some pics next time im over to see it again.
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Old 12-12-2006, 03:24 AM   #14
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some pictures ive found when searchimg.
Attached Thumbnails
1.6: AT long block, MT head?-subframe-001.jpg   1.6: AT long block, MT head?-subframe-005.jpg   1.6: AT long block, MT head?-subframe-009.jpg   1.6: AT long block, MT head?-subframe-011.jpg  
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Old 12-12-2006, 11:46 AM   #15
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Couldn't you just use A/T pistons? or are the rods/crank different as well?
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