1.8L DIY Turbo Set-up with BorgWarner EFR-6258 - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 05-27-2011, 02:59 AM   #41
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Loan me your manifold, turbo and downpipe and I will tell you what a 1.8 with a 6258 will make at 25psi.
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:49 PM   #42
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Sweet EFR setup, I've really been thinking about doing a 94 miata build for some time now but I just bought a 08 mazdaspeed3 I'll have to put those plans on hold for now.

Your profile says western NC, I'm from the Asheville area myself if you wouldn't mind I'd like to check it out sometime.
Justin - I'm also in Asheville. It was a tough one, but I've recently made the decision to put the car up for sale so I can focus on my next project. Feel free to stop by and take a look at the car. My contact information can be found in my posting for the car. Or, you can send me a PM...
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:58 PM   #43
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Derber: Where in regards to the Garrett setup did your charge pipe move, further forward? I'd like to keep my FM manifold if possible, and avoid replacing my silicone tube.
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:43 AM   #44
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that car has to be horrible to drive in stop and go traffic, bigger is not always better.
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Old 06-27-2011, 06:11 PM   #45
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Meh, it's just like driving an NA. I have a lightweight flywheel and a grabby puck clutch, it was bad for a few weeks but now I'm a better driver because of it.
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Old 06-27-2011, 06:28 PM   #46
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Wonderful post, but why do your dyno charts only go to 6200rpm?
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:03 PM   #47
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Very nice setup.
As previously noted why didnt you take it up to 7k on the dyno? Also it seems like there is a dip in the power and tq curve between 3500 and about 4800, any ideas? it does not dip like that on the old turbo setup.
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:56 AM   #48
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Derber: Where in regards to the Garrett setup did your charge pipe move, further forward? I'd like to keep my FM manifold if possible, and avoid replacing my silicone tube.
Yes, the entire turbocharger moved forward compared to a standard FM set-up. FM has the flange centered on the exhaust manifold while my DIY manifold moved the flange closer to cylinder #2. Not sure if this would require replacement of the silicone tube. I'm sure FM would be able to provide guidance.
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:59 AM   #49
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that car has to be horrible to drive in stop and go traffic, bigger is not always better.
Actually, the car drives just like a naturally aspirated engine in traffic. The turbo has no impact on stop and go driving... that is more of a result of your tuning and other mods.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:03 AM   #50
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Very nice setup.
As previously noted why didnt you take it up to 7k on the dyno? Also it seems like there is a dip in the power and tq curve between 3500 and about 4800, any ideas? it does not dip like that on the old turbo setup.
Felt safe taking the car to 6500 rpm. This particular run fell short at 6200 rpm.
The dip in the torque curve is actually related to boost control. In the post I mentioned there was a slight overboost at low-speed when the wastegate becomes active. With a little tuning, this overboost condition is gone and the torque curve is 'flatter'.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:00 AM   #51
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How close is the DP to the frame shelf? I want to use my FM log if at all possible (money savings!), so a slightly steeper then desired angle for the DP wouldn't bother me.
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Old 06-30-2011, 07:36 AM   #52
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Yea i figured it was a sudden loss of a psi or two when that massive iwg opens. Are the numbers the same with the boost control figured out? losing a little tq would prolly make that shortblock last a bit longer, i think 250ftlbs is just about the limit of stock rods.
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