Well no quiet w/ the ct20b just yet. But in the near future I hope to have it done.

I've got a 1990 NA 1.6l with 170k miles on it. Before I attempt to boost it. I'm going to do a full "tune up" to kinda refresh the engine. Gaskets/seals, along with timing belt, water pump. And a few other things for maintenance.

Parts I plan on ordering:
- Megasquirt PNP ecu
- 350 CC injectors
- CT20b turbo (have, picked up for free)
- Adapter for the turbo
- Intercooler/piping
- Down pipe/exhaust

So far, I believe I've covered all the "main" pieces of the puzzle. I plan on running between 6-8psi which I believe is suppose to be good for 150+ a little. Which is the the ideal power goal I've set for myself.

The turbo itself is in perfect working order, my friend had it rebuilt/new seals before he decided to part out his car cause he couldn't afford it anymore. And gave it to me as partial payment for helping him with the part out.

And I have 2 questions, since my engine has a short nose crank. Will adding boost cause problems with that? I've been told since my engine is up there in miles, since it I haven't run into the problem I more than likely won't run into it.

Any, any feed back on the over all set up I plan on running?

 

no quiet?


I think you meant not quite?

 

So what type of manifold and downpipe do you plan on going with, and where are you going to find the adapter? The whole short nose crank problem seems to come up when a timing belt job is done incorrectly. Just do some research - make sure you replace the crank bolt, key, and torque to the correct numbers.

Other then that the setup should work fine.

 

I did the timing belt for this car when the previous owner had it, and it's been about 50k miles since then with no problems.

And manifold/downpipe wise. I've got the manifold off the MR2 th turbo came off off, I'm probably going to cut the mounting surface off that, and weld it to a manifold that fits the 1.6l. I'll do something similar with the flang for the downpipe.

 

Get a clutch! The stock clutch will probably slip around your target hp. Also, you might as well get 460cc injectors now instead of later.

 

Already ahead of you on the clutch!!
Its an ACT clutch, I'm not 100% sure which package it is, but I got it off a friend (yet again for free)
He saids its rated for 200hp, and he put maybe 150 miles before turning up the boost, and started making 250.
And my stock unit burned out, around the exactly the same time, so I took it off his hands.

maybe a list of other mobs will help with opinions of things I should look out for/change.

- Torsen swap (4.10 final drive)
- Tokico struts/ swift springs
- mishimoto 37mm(?) radiator
- ACT clutch/ pressure plate
- Ralco RZ short shifter

And this is sort of a budget build, so if anyone has personal experience with any companies that have good deals. Please let me know!

 

As mentioned:

1. go with 460 injectors - they can be had for cheap; there's no need to limit boost due to small injectors.

2. get a decent clutch. A 'fresh' oem clutch will hold (maybe) tolerate 130-150 whp with some mild slipping on hard 4th, 5th shifts.

3. start looking for 1.8 rear end carrier (preferably with a torsen), axles and driveshaft. The 1.6 rear end is very weak.


There's always exception to the rule. I have a '90 that I greddy'd while in high school (running 9 psi) and took it to the local 1/4 quarter mile 4 times with 20+ runs on OEM clutch (2K miles on it), a wimpy 1.6 rear, and 205 falken azenis (the originals, back when they were the cat's meow).

I absolutely punished the car on and off the track for 3 years as only an ignorant 17 year old could - clutchless shifts, 4K clutch drops, parking lot drifting.

The clutch and rear end stayed in one piece - zero failures.

Sometimes your lucky, I'd rather be good.

-Zach

 

Unless the shirt shifter is another freebie I'd spend the money else where.

Not worth it IMO.

-Zach

 

All the mods in my previous post are ones that have already been made, I agree on the short shifter, it's not worth the money. But the previous owner rigged the stock united, and JB welded the shift **** on.
So in order to replace the shifter boots, I had to get a new shifter. And thought I'd give the short shifter a try.

Note taken on the 460cc's.
Just looked on JSCSpeed the 350cc and 450cc's are the same price.

 

I have recently cleaned/rebuilt RX7 460cc injectors for sale with the RC injector clips. Jusss sayin'

You should buy them

 

Lol I'll check out your f/s thread. And if you still have them when I start ordering parts, i might just take them off your hands!

 

[3. start looking for 1.8 rear end carrier (preferably with a torsen), axles and driveshaft. The 1.6 rear end is very weak.


There's always exception to the rule. I have a '90 that I greddy'd while in high school (running 9 psi) and took it to the local 1/4 quarter mile 4 times with 20+ runs on OEM clutch (2K miles on it), a wimpy 1.6 rear, and 205 falken azenis (the originals, back when they were the cat's meow).

I absolutely punished the car on and off the track for 3 years as only an ignorant 17 year old could - clutchless shifts, 4K clutch drops, parking lot drifting.

The clutch and rear end stayed in one piece - zero failures.

Sometimes your lucky, I'd rather be good.

-Zach[/QUOTE]

definately get the 1.8 diff conversion, i went thru three 1.6 diffs. i was doing what zach did only i was doing 6k clutch drops, i dont know about clutchless shifts, but i lost a diff to parking lot drifting, 6k clutch drop, and rolling 10mph burnout. but who can complain miatas are fun

 

These are a list of parts that I already have installed on the car. The drivetrain is already set up to handle the turbo, until about 200hp. Then the clutch should be the first thing to give out.

I'm more or less looking for opinions/tips/advice on what I plan on running for the turbo set up. If they're any changes I should make, that will help performance/price based on someones first hand experience with said part.

 

I'm more or less looking for opinions/tips/advice on what I plan on running for the turbo set up. If they're any changes I should make, that will help performance/price based on someones first hand experience with said part.[/QUOTE]

i suggest you get a wideband

 

i suggest you get a wideband[/QUOTE]

Ahh, i knew I was forgetting something, I talked to a sponsor on my local forum. And we'll willing to hook me up with a - Innovate DB-Blue Gauge / LC-1 3795 Wideband Kit, for a decent price.

http://www.importimageracing.com/p/I...eband-Kit.html

Any specific brand you would recommend?