I'm genuinely interested to see what the F/IC can do. We don't really have many people running these, the last time I checked. Probably because the $300 for the Boomslang harness and $400 for the AEM F/IC-6 puts you solidly in the range of an MSLabs MS3 Basic.

I guess already having the F/IC takes out a lot of the sting.

THENUGE26 you're right there is no rods in the block, it is totally stock. For the longevity of the engine all I can say is that it already survived a couple time banging the limiter in 6th gear and in a weather that was almost 30 degree colder than when we dynoed the car (so power was almost certainly over what we measured on the dyno) and the compression is still within 1 psi on each cylinder and didn't went down at all so everything is still in great shape in the engine.(no bent rod)

18PSI please wait for the dynosheet before saying anything on the turbo. I think everyone will be surprised of what it can do.

EO2K the reason I went with the FIC is first because of the simplicity of tuning because my dad wanted a perfectly runing car as fast as possible and the second reason is as you stated because I had one in stock. Let's say that money was not a big factor in this build.(even if my choice of parts seem to suggest it)

a little teaser for the next time i'll post something.....


yes 300+whp on a MUSTANG DYNO:)




https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1385700997

:rofl:

I'm sure we'll all be surprised what a 20 year old turbo can do.

Interested to see where this goes.

Regardless of opinions, work looks great. Nice welding.

That wasn't his point..

Nice to see something different on here. Curious to see how this one turns out.

Hayyyyy bro, wanna race me from a roll?



Ok but seriously, what makes the turbo so crappy? The fact that it's huge for the power it's capable of? The fact that it's a 25 year old turbo? Or the fact that it sucked when attached to the motor that it came off of?

I'm skeptical of the idea of one on a BP, but i love it on my F2. They last forever, refuse to die, can be purchased in working condition for $50, and nobody wants them, so spares are never an issue.

LOL
I don't think its really even a good roll race turbo. Its big and heavy, like a roll race turbo, yet doesn't offer any of the perks of a roll race turbo like topend for days. I craps out at what, like 12-14psi? I remember tuning my friends bolt on mk3 supra and being really disappointed with this turbo.

In for (hopefully) surprising dyno plot :)
Maybe I'm completely wrong and somehow magically this is a perfect turbo for a 1.8 BP

It craps out at about 14psi....

On a 7mgte.

So that has approximately fuck-all to do with any of the cars being mentioned in this thread.

It's not the perfect turbo for a BP, i know that for sure, but it's not going to crap out at 14psi either. Think more like... 20psi. Or more.

Mine pulls hard as a motherfucker up top at 24psi, verified.

Hmm, ok so then I might be pleasantly surprised.

Sounds good.

I think you will. Like i said, don't expect a perfect plot, but if the tune is worth a damn, it's not going to be as limpdick as you think.

I'd never SEEK out this turbo for a BP, but in a budget "what the fuck do i have laying around the shop today?" build, sure, absolutely. :)

It's better then the MSM IHI turbo. :giggle:

---- fissures are better than the MSM IHI turbo.

Now that is saying something..
Don't Google it by the way.

Now time for some results....

Car was tuned using homemade det cans and filled with 91 octane gas.
All pulls were done in 5th gear (1:1 ratio)
Boost was totally straight thru the entire pull (varying from 11.8 to 12.2 psi)

Interesting thing was that I was able to hit MBT while tunning my timing map even with the vvt high compression engine. I would have taught that i would be limited by knock with such a high compression ratio and boost but i had to add 6 degrees past MBT before i could ear a single knock event in the det cans and power was already down by 13whp with 6 more degree of timing. So what it means is that I have a safety margin of 6 degree with my current running map witch is pretty awesome!!!

Here is one of the dyno pulls:


here's the dynosheet :

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1386563206

Honestly, on the the dyno I missed my MS3X....
First I would have loved to bump the limiter to 7500 because power was still climbing a bit.
And Second I would have been able to remove that ''too rich'' section followed by that 800rpm section where I am a little lean. I had to have that rich part because there is no load enrichment in the stock ECU with the AEM FIC and if it is not there it would go crazy lean when boost would build fast when shifting or flooring it at high RPM. On the road this rich and lean part is totally unnoticeable. (Here's a log from AEMLOG that shows the rich and lean part is not there when I shift from 2nd to 3rd) (and also notice how boost set smoothly and is constant thru the rpm range)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1386563206




And now for all of you who think that the ct26 is not a good match for the miata engine here is a video that shows how it respond in diferent situations. And there's also a 2nd to 3rd flyby to show the sound of the car with my manifold exhaust combo ;)


Now Please leave comments and questions and i'll be happy to respond to them.

****Boost gauge isn't there normally, it was only for the purpose of the video*****
****also initial boost was set down to 9psi due to boost climbing 3 psi with RPM in cold weather (below 0 degree)*****

Well that's pretty impressive if that plot is legit.

Good for you.

ct26 does still look pretty lazy on the 1.8 a 300hp turbo not making full torque by 3000 rpm?

Sure not full torque at 3000 but find me a turbo that have full torque by 3000 and that has that flat of a torque curve up to the limiter....(with a dyno proof of course)