TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Jeremy, I'll let you know if it's needed.

Pics of the post cooler install.

I made the temp sensor block a little more pretty.


Cooler installed with the brackets, showing the lines in the bumper.




Everything is above the air dam.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

The AEM would deal with a 36-1 the same way it deals with a 12+1. It would only use every third tooth, and it would just search for a missing one instead of searching for an extra one. I wouldn't expect it to solve any issues.

The 12-tooth rare earth magnet is wildly overkill, I like it

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

But it should handle the 12+1 and then 36-1 differently. The AEM can understand 12 tooth events so it uses the whole 12 tooth wheel, but for the 36-1 it only uses 1/3 of the teeth. Which is why a 12 tooth wheel is the highest count wheel that actually increases trigger resolution on an AEM. Unless the trigger setup instruction in the massive AEM setup manual are a complete lie and have nothing to do with reality.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Thanks

Well I made it into work today without issue. Hopefully this post doesn't jinx it.

2 Friday's ago I spent a few hours driving around waiting for the issue to occur while datalogging appropriate parameters. I also borrowed a laser thermometer gizmo for laughs. The cam sensor would stop working after about 45 minutes. Cam sensor temp was about 165, crank sensor (which was working fine) was ~210. Regardless, the cam sensor would just cut out for a few minutes, then work for a few minutes. It started to get pretty bad...working for only a minute/mile or so at a time. PITA. I wasn't far from home but it took a while to get back.

I bought two 257°F rated DIYAutotune lug mount hall sensors and modified my mounts accordingly. I tested the new sensors and they output the same signal/polarity when used with these magnets, so besides the mounts, they were plug & play.

I made an adapter to mount the 'good' threaded sensor onto the new lug mount brackets and will keep it in my glovebox forever. Eventually I may use it for a speed sensor. The pulse signal from the reed switch built into the gauge cluster seems to be a little flakey...does not output a constant pulse frequency when driving a constant speed. Maybe I have the wrong pull up resistor value. But I don't use the vehicle speed for anything at the moment so little likelihood I will do anything about it.

I am working on videos I swear. And cranking up the boost. And the new intake manifold.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I cant get the in dash speed sensor to read a value worth ****. I can get it to read ok up to 10mph then it just freaks the **** out and bounces around between like 60 and 10. And I didnt test it at higher speeds.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

ohhhh you better not get us all hard and then waiting for weeks with blue *****......

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

This.


This thing is going to pick up MONSTROUSLY as more boost is presented to it. KLs under boost are ******* ridiculous. You BP nerds are going to see some ****.

duffbuster243

iTrader: (1)

Even an LS1 has got nothing on a properly boosted KL.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I don't know that i'd go that far... pretty much any n/a V8 anyone is going to bother swapping into a Miata, sure.

But on the other hand, properly boosted KLs are few and far between. But even the hackjobs move out pretty ******* hard. 300whp ebay turbo FMU bullshit Probes are all over the place, and they punch above their weight class. I've seen an Ebay turbo FMU setup 2nd gen MX6 trap 117mph. On 7psi. DA FUQ?

duffbuster243

iTrader: (1)

Just look for westpalmgt on youtube. The fact of the matter is I've seen plenty of ls6's locally with every bolt-on under the sun and a supercharger (I know that's one of the problems there) not even hitting 500whp with a "professional" tune. Having spent 15-20k into parts, not including the price of the car I would say that's quite dissappointing.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I think 500 is the limit of some of the internals. On those LS's you can easily hit the limit of the internals with bolt on parts N/A. Of course in the V8 would, a cam and new heads are bolt on parts.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I know Westpalm... Pretty basic car. The video of him pulling the Viper is pretty funny.



Now this dude... this dude was doing it right.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

That's pretty much exactly what mine does. Oh well, fortunately it was simple to try when I had it apart for the speedo cable swap.

You guys have been waiting over a year, what's a few more...?

I was surprised at how fun it was before I put the turbo on there. This engine is soooo smooth (well, after I put rubber trans mount and balanced the driveshaft 3 times) and linear. But uhhh yeah, big turbo mean big gains. It feels quite laggy, but then I look down and see i'm at 2500rpms which feels fine for cruising thanks to the extra displacement. I mean, it's not like my subaru with low rpm insta-boost obviously. But once this Precision comes on, it's soooo ******* sick even at the 6psi I'm at. So in reality it's slow to spool, but once above the rpm/flow range to spool it, the transient response so far seems to be better than the 2560 on the BP...meaning it's as instant as I've experienced (granted it only has to make 6psi, it may be noticeable at the 18psi I planned to eventually run after I upgrade the fuel system). I would love to put a twinscroll EFR on this bitch someday. And it feels quite a bit quicker than the ~280rwhp I was at with the BP. That could be the rush of boost from a big turbo of course.

I am scared to rev it though. I have a fear of the OEM Ford clutch coming apart and taking off my legs. So the highest I've taken it is just over 7000...well the rev limit is at 7400 at the moment and I haven't hit it. It's got interprep springs and that guy says those should be good for 8500.

Maybe a ballistic blanket will give me some false security and some *****.

Watertemps this morning held right around 190, all back roads in case electrical gremlin still there. Oil temps same. This oil cooler kicks ***. No oil thermostat at the moment.

EDIT: and I'm starting to like the atmosphere EWG dump and the granny gear .63 5th.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

The springs should be good to more than 8500. I'm not really a HUGE fan of the springs, due to the insane seat pressure, but they should be fine to 9000-9500 or so. I have them in my now dead heads and i was going to run them to OVER 9000!!!11!1!!!! while my new heads were being built.

Thanks for reminding me, though. I need to sell those springs.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I'm running the HLA's still, that's the limiting part, not the springs, according to interprep. But hear you on the seat pressure. it's enough to overcome the timing belt tensioner. If the engine stops at a particular spot in the cycle, the passenger side cam will rotate clockwise when viewed from the front and slacken the timing belt about 5 cam degrees. Enough to make the belt very loose on the tension side of the pulley (side opposite the tensioner), enough that I could remove the belt off the idler between the banks if I tried hard enough. Things you see when you don't run the timing belt cover...

it takes about 4 minutes for the springs to rotate the cam and slacken the belt after you shut off the engine. Fortuantely it doesn't get loose to the point where the belt can jump teeth on the cam pulley. I have considered making a little belt shoe thing like subaru's have to keep the belt on the pulley if it gets too loose.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Ahhh.... i run a manual tensionser, so i didn't have that problem. I had the HLAs still in the dead heads. Guess i'm going to bite the bullet and do the Zetec thing on the next set.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Quick video from 2 days ago.


I'm yanking the engine because I am pretty sure I have something not good going on with Cyl. 1.

When the engine is fully warm, there has been this 'whoop whoop whoop' sound that you can only hear if you are standing in front of the car. It's not there when the car is cold, or if rpms are above say 1300 or so. You can't feel any sort of knock on the intake, oil pan, starter, alternator when this is occuring. I naively though it was either intake or belt noise, but my dad got me nervous when he noticed it. Long story short, if I deactivate injector #1, the noise turns to a louder knock sound that you can definitely feel when you have your hand on the intake mani, whereas deactivating any other injector doesn't affect the 'whoop' loudness or tone.

The noise is not there when the engine is cold. Oil pressure at idle when cold is ~80psi, ~20psi warm. All the bearings were on the tight side of the tolerance when I assembled the engine. The pistons were loose but I think piston slap would be worse when cold, not when hot. I'm hoping I missed some gunk somewhere (this thing was insanely filthy internally) and it took out the rod bearing. that'll be easy.

You can sorta hear the 'whoop' at the end of this video from last year (~400 miles ago). Starting at 1:20


The noise also isn't there in any of my before-turbo videos.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Sounds fine to me :shrug:, but what do i know? That recent video is so awesome, still on 7psi?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

yeah its hard to tell anything from that vid.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

yeah I know. It's hard to tell anything standing in front of the car with your ear to the intake too. But yanking the engine is cheap insurance, and I want to replace the leaky drainplug setup. I want to find something with an O-ring. Or maybe a -6AN male nipple and use a female cap.

I'm at 5psi according to the datalogs.