The OEM intake (my block came with a KLZE intake) points into the firewall. Will I really need all of those different chambers on a lightweight miata? And will they ultimately restrict the flow at high RPMs? Plus the sidefeed injectors are lame. I'm seeing if I can fit one of those new cute LS7 injectors in there under the runners; reusing the runner portion of the intake and just building a plenum that points in the right direction. Otherwise I'll have to build the intake from scratch (not a big deal really).

I don't have money for two turbos at this time unfortunately. While that would make some sense, it's just a lot cheaper to use one basic twin scroll T4 airwerks borgwarner with a couple MVS' than two GT2554's, or whatever.

 

BW ts t4 oh this thing is going to be DERTAY!!
With the amount of air that thing will be huffing, I'd definitely build as smooth and unrestrictive intake mani for it as possible.

 

Yeah that's my current believe too.

I'm leaning heavily towards the BW S200sx. Fullrace's site makes it seem like the cat's ***.
http://www.full-race.com/store/turbo...670-turbo.html

 

The potential epic-ness of this build is... well, epic.

 

cut hole into firewall, extend velocity stack into cowl area, cover entire cowl area with filter type materal. you have just made the best n/a intake to date.

 

N/A need not apply.

 

oh yeah.

 

Do something custom for the intake manifold. I swapped a KLZE into my Ford Probe (originally KLDE) and with all the different actuators and vacuum lines on that bitch, I could never get the VRIS to work properly. Ended up selling it. Granted, I knew about 0.05% of what I do now about working on cars, but I remember that intake manifold being my nemesis...

-Ryan

 

sub'd, interesting stuff!

 

In as well.

 

i was the one who started that thread over on m.net. Though i do not plan to turbo mine off the bat i do plan to down the road.But i will be watching this thread.

also i will be purchasing an adapter from claire. I like that there are a few people with this in the works. I plan to pull my vvt engine out in the next month or so.

My plan is to get the kl4g adapted to the stock 6 speed and get it to pass obd2 scan for emissions. Then i will hopefully have a N/a v6 with more headroom then the stock i4.

also for the people wanting to know. it does have a forged crank. Well the kl4g doesnt.

But if you wanted to build the engine there are some forged 302 rods that will fit with minor modifications. Apparently you can have a fully built lower end rods and pistons for under 1000. so if i get off with this swap for under a decent turbo kit. then i will be happy.

but anyways i think this twin turbo business is going to be intense. these engines make a great exhaust note.

 

the KLG4 forged crank thing has been debated alot, I can tell you of the 3-4 ive seen apart personally they all had forged cranks, yet others have pulled them apart to find the opposite, so in the end its down to pulling the pan to find out for your particular motor.

 

yea and i will probably drive it in stock form for awhile.

So when i decide to go forged if i do not get a forged crank swapping a crank in at that point will be nothing.

 

in terms of power, I know a few mx6 guys who were getting 330 hp easy on relatively low boost (7 psi with a t3/t4 ?). On an mx6, it's not the engine that had problems, but rather the weak G series transmission would break like glass. The ones who have turboed their mx6's have gone through 8 or 9 trannies and can swap a tranny in about an hour or so (might be exaggerating a bit, but still). klze heads flow the best, but springs and lifters don't like anything above 7000 rpms. If I ever take my ZE mx6 up in the higher rpm range, I try not to pass 6500

oh yeah, and on the crazy modded KL's out there, I believe one twin turboed monster "KL" had pretty much everything beefed up on the engine, except for a balanced stock crank. So pretty much the only thing making that engine a KL was the crank lol

 

Anyone know the HP limit of the stock cast pistons?

At the moment I'm leaning towards 302 ford forged rods and a Ross piston for the .027" shorter rod length and larger, floating pin.

 

Shorter rod length = worse rod ratio = less revability?

0.027" probably doesn't make a huge difference though...

 

I'm no expert but my strengths of materials class says a shorter rod length would mean more revablility. Less of a moment on the rod means less stress which means it'll take more rpm. also means less torque though.

Agreed.

 

Shorter rod means more rod angularity, and higher buckling force on the rod, and side force on the cylinder walls/ piston skirts. A motor will still rev/ make power with shorter rods, but it will be itself to death more quickly.

And .027" is a .5% difference. Hardly worth worrying about if money is a deciding factor.

 

Not so much...


That's more like it. Longer rod also increases the amount of piston dwell time at TDC increasing the VE at higher revs.

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...part-deux.aspx

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...ve-engine.aspx


But like vehicular said, 0.5% difference doesn't really matter, especially if it means you can get high quality forged rods at a lower price.

 

Any updates?