Ordered the pistons, rods, pins, rings from Wiseco; they have everything so it was easy to order from one place.

Block is being bored & honed locally +0.5mm cause the bores were oval.

Shipping valve seals to the head guy today.

I'm making the bellhousing and crankshaft adapter drawings now during lunch.

Picking up an engine crane from Paul!! so i can yank the 1.8 stuff out after thanksgiving.

T5 trans ordered, should arrive today. The gutted mockup trans is supposed to be from a mustang but the shifter is rotated from vertical; internet says that is on Camaro T5's so I ordered a brand new one from Ford to compare. I'd hate to make my trans mounts or whatnot for the wrong trans.

 

Awesome!

 

And yarrr T5 arrived. According to my dad, the ford T5 is square (shifter pad is parallel to the mount pad), unlike the mockup "mustang" trans I have here which is probably really from a old camaro or S10. I'll pick that up tomorrow and make sure the pad is in the same spot with respect to the bell, hopefully it is so I can still use it to mock up cause it's obviously super light with no steel inside it.

EDIT: So I pick up the trans and the shifter pad is rotated. I guess this is normal. I found some of McCully Racing Motor's pictures of his V8 shifter and it is offset to get the shift **** back in the center.

 

awesome post some pictures of the motor when you start putting it together.

i have been looking for a donor car or motor. But im leaning towards just an engine for now to build it while i wait for the swap.

 

I'll post pictures of the shiny new parts once they arrive.

OH! Besides the trans I also picked up my aluminum ford motorsports flywheel tonight too (the cheapest light 0 balance flywheel I could find). The first one was missing a rivet that holds the friction surface to the aluminum. "Made in the USA".

 

I know the "floating cylinders" were an issue if the engine got heated, it would blow a gasket and was trash after. I've seen inserts like this honda one. I wonder if it would be worth considering with boost- and "while you're at it".

 

Meh.
Thats what is known as a "block guard", and I wouldnt recommend it.
Its one of those things that makes sense in theory, but has never actually been proven. Then, when you think about it, it could actually make the situation worse.

The water jacket is cast, which means a rough, inconsistent surface. The block guard does not fit perfectly, it presses hard in some places and doesnt touch in others. It could actually put sideways pressure on the sleeves making them more prone cracking.

Furthermore, it decreases the volume of water in the upper art of the water jacket, this water is what takes the heat away and by removing some of its volume you are negatively effecting cooling.

Finally, its not making the block closed deck at all. You have to press it down below the deck surface for it to fit tightly, so youre not getting any improvement in head gasket seal, or the strength associated by having solid contact all the way across the mating surface.


Its one of those things that a lot of people do, but most have ever asked why, or how. In fact, many of the highest numbers made on stock Honda blocks have been made without block guards.

 

Ok- I figured they were more than just pressed in- and then milled flat with the deck.

 

Block guards are crap... After installing one expect the cylinders to overheat where the guard is at, also expect oval cylinders impossible to seal from piston rings.

Honda did use closed blocks in few of their models and due to the above issues their models went open.

 

No block guard will be used, but thanks for the suggestion. That was suggested by someone at work too. But I'm too cheap and lazy to bother. Another part to wait to get machined, etc. I don't think this will be too high-strung anyway.

 

Ford aluminum flywheel arrived, Faro'ed, and added to the assembly. I also threw the T5z input shaft in there to make sure it all still lines up. So far so good. Raw Faro V6 pointcloud data shown for reference.

 

Cool. What Faro device are you using?

 

used a block guard, no "oval" cylinders or other bullshit. car ran fine for years boosted. did another one, no block guard, car ran fine for years boosted. no ill effects either way. so why buy it right? if you were gonna really go crazy you would do darton sleeves or something to make a solid deck.

 

I think it's a Platinum Arm, 6x.

 

WTF do you know about tracking anything?

 

BW s200 sounds a bit small for the application, i was thinking more along the lines of-
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...y_Code=Turbo-F
Guess its all about how much power you want, but with a t5 and a built motor you really have very few limitations, tat t5 will hold 300ft lbs in a lightened up miata all day and once u got the tranny in there upgrades are a snap. A 3550 would hold up to anything and should bolt right into the place of a t5.

 

you need to add a "p" to the end of your link.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m..._Code=Turbo-Fp

That turbo is a lot of money, but I guess right in line with the billet wheel stuff. B200sx is....much much cheaper. I will go with something like that as a stop-gap until I either have enough money for a baller turbo or have a real good feeling about a baller turbo, fitment wise.

I'm going to try to stop at all baller turbo manufacturers at PRI tomorrow. I am taking a day out of my Disney vacation to browse the show

Thanks for the link!

EDIT: And I am a little weary of the 300 ft-lb rated capacity of the T5z. I should be well north of that, but I'm not drag racing a 3500lb 'stang with slicks. So....who knows. A new TKO600 was twice the price. Maybe I can find a 3550 somewhere in the middle?

 

T5z is rated 330 ft/lbs I had one in my rx7.... Really, you're going to be ~1000 lbs under the weight of a mustang so it'll put up with more power than that..... And I'm pretty sure the mustang guys reliably run more than 330 out of those transmissions at their weight.

 

s300+ or bust!

 

More info on this 500whp with precision 6265 would be great. I'm leaning towards them now, I told them what I want basically response over a '500hp' number with pump fuel, they are going to get back to me. I mentioned the 6262 (cause that's popular on the sti and evo ~2.5's and that powa level) and the phone kinda went silent, like a 'you must be smoking crack with a turbo that big' kinda silence. Basically I'm thinking my target hp with pump gas friendly psi level would require a not street friendly turbo size.

Although last weekend I saw my first E85 gas station. I was drunk so i don't remember exactly where, but it's somewhat close.

EDIT: Block still being bored. Pistons/rods/pins/rings came in a while back from Wiseco. "rear" crank adapter halfway machined yesterday. Getting stuff for cheap means waiting a very long time. Picked up the engine hoist from Paul today.

I am playing around with different intake manifold designs but I don't know how to calculate proper runner length.