wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

For my SR20 T25 I was able to find a used broken t25 on ebay for 50 bucks that has normal inlet and outlets. Going to swap the compressor housing over. Are you going to clock your turbo differently?

I've got just about all the same parts you do cept my mani and dp are begi. Good lookin build!

anarchyx34

O.O

Twin turbos?!11

I actually considered going through the fenderwell, my concern is tire/wheel clearance. Looks like it might be tight.

anarchyx34

OMG confusing. I just spent a LOT of time on anplumbing.com building a parts list for my water/oil setup. Here's what I got so far.

9919BFH Metric thread male to AN adapter male. X1
-adapter for oil feed port on block M14x1.5 to -4an

591942 I.F. Steel Brake Adapter 2 per pkg. x1
-7/16-24 to -4an adapter for turbo oil inlet

309104 90Deg. Auto-Fit Hose End. Use Perform-O-Flex, Auto-Flex hose.
-Hose ends for oil feed line -4AN

300004 Tight Budget? Use Auto-Flex Hose For use with Auto Fit Hose
-oil feed hose -4an 3ft

981611 Straight, Pipe Thread To A.N. Adapter
-Oil drain fitting for turbo -10AN

982311 45 Deg. Elbow, Pipe Thread To A.N. Adapter
-this gets screwed into oil pan -10AN

300110 Straight Auto-Fit Hose End. Use Perform-O-Flex, Auto-Flex hose.
-Hose ends for oil drain -10

300010 Tight Budget ? USE Auto-Flex Hose with Swivel Seal & Auto-Fit
-Hose for oil drain -10 2ft.

9919DFH Metric thread male to AN adapter male.
-adapters for water fitting on turbo -6an to M14x1.5 X2

300106 Straight Auto-Fit Hose End.
-hose end for one water line -6an

309106 90Deg. Auto-Fit Hose End.
-hose end for the other water line facing cyl head -6an

300006 Tight Budget ? USE Auto-Flex Hose with Swivel Seal & Auto-Fit
-hose for water lines -6AN 4ft

900106 -6 Econ-O-Fit, 5/8" ID.
-hose clamps for -6an water hose onto thermostat housing nipple and wherever the hell the other one goes.

Total for all of this is $184.

Seem like I've got everything?

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

Get yourself a flexible lower rad hose from discount, makes life easier (props to brain) and I clocked the compressor down, then used a silicone 90 pointing towards the front, and slightly towards the fender. Tight, but fits (w/ ps/ac)

jobambo

quote from the DIY thread.
the correct size fitting to match up to it is a M10 x 1.5. Based on previous issues locating a correct fitting, you'll want to source a M10 x 1.5 to -4AN fitting.

You ordered "9919BFH Metric thread male to AN adapter male. X1
-adapter for oil feed port on block M14x1.5 to -4an"

anarchyx34

Whooops!! Thanks for catching that! I didn't actually order anything yet. Good thing too

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

That twin turbo IC pipe routing is totally clear of the tire. Mine is very close (I'd chose the prior if I had to do it over again). But both are a viable option if another option is needed besides the traditional down and out.

Turbo_4

iTrader: (6)

I was wondering if you can do that...looks very good^^^^^^^^^^^^

anarchyx34

OK, ordered the water/oil lines as well as a turbo drain flange for the turbo on e-bay. Everything came out to $240, but the underhood eye candy will be worth it.

anarchyx34

Meh oil and water lines are done.





I hate working with A/N hose. It's a ******* pain in the *** to assemble, especially the smaller sizes. It took me 2 hours just to make the oil feed line. Maybe I'm just retarded. But at least it looks pretty.

spike

^^ I'm with you on this one,the SS AN hose are a ******* bitch to assemble,I'm switching to the socketless hose for now on.

You should wrap some heat shrink around the SS oil feed line,just incase it makes any contact with the brake cylinder or heater hose,it won't rub through.

anarchyx34

Finally got around to doing the charge pipes. I ordered one of those CX-racing e-bay kits, figuring it should have most of what I need, and a few extra pieces including a blow off valve from siliconeintakes. I tackled the nightmare driver's side first. It wasn't as hard as I thought. I managed to make this in about an hour.




Yay for wheel clearance. This is at full lock


And then I removed the secondary radiator fan and started assembling the
post-intercooler pipes, starting with the BOV pipe. I need to find a slim fan now.



I'm glad I went with 2" pipe instead of 2.5" because this is a piece of cake so far. Now all I need to do is cobble together a lower radiator hose of some sort, do some minor trimming/adjusting, and that side's done. W00t!!

anarchyx34

Havent posted in a while, but I've gotten a lot done.

IT'S DONE and it RUNS.


Blow off valve.


New loud Mitsuba horns and a really compact SPAL condensor fan.


Passengers side IC piping


Everything barely fits


I made a boost leak detector. It was a good idea because I had several boost leaks to fix. Probably would've gone crazy trying to find them after the fact.


Now all I need to do is tow the car to get the downpipe done and I can finally hit the road. I'm so excited.

gc8pat

Congrats on the build man! I'm looking into going the boost route pretty soon and might be using this thread as a bit of a guide. BTW my miata is white too!

You were on mx6.com before right? Your screen name looks very familiar. Mine is Pat88gt over there.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

What is the easiest way to make one of those fancy shmancy boost leak testers?

anarchyx34

Yeah I had a '90 626 GT for the longest time. Ended up with a FE3 swap and everything before I got bored with it.

Go the the PVC pipe aisle in home depot. Grab a PVC cap and a plastic to cast-iron pipe coupler. Drill hole in cap, screw in air fitting, put cap inside coupler and tighten clamp. That's it.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

That's the best explanation I've heard of making the boost leak detector. Over on SRTforums they make this huge deal over it like it's some sort of lost black art.

Build looks great! What made you change your mind about going through the fender?

anarchyx34

Ehh... too lazy. And I was worried about possible wheel/clearance issues and interference with the power steering stuffs. It fits rather nicely where it is actually, although if I went with 2.5" it wouldn't have been possible.

anarchyx34

Car is at the shop right now getting teh downpipe done. Hopefully will be done before the weekend. I cant contain my excitement. I'm about to burst!

anarchyx34

Just picked the car up from the shop. Downpipe is done. I got to drive it home too. So far everything's holding together nicely. Nothing's gone wrong yet. Once I got home I took it around the neighborhood and got on it a little bit. I'm only running 6-7 psi and I have to say holy shitballs it's pretty quick. Top end is very strong. The bitch wants to pull right past redline. I'm also running off the MSPNP basemap, which is tuned really really safe for boost. I'm hitting 10:1 AFR, so it should only get better as I lean it out a little.

Downpipe came out nicely.




I had it done at Maximum PSI in Linden, NJ. Great work as always.

Oh and another thing. This car is so quiet! I'm running a cobalt catback, and the stock cat. The thing is actually quieter than stock. Really surprised by that. The only thing you hear is turbo noises, which sound pretty awesome.

Well I'm stoked. And of course it's supposed to rain the whole damn weekend. Oh and my registration sticker is expired and I haven't gotten the new one in the mail yet. Good timing.