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Plz check my list cuz Im a noob who plans to learn along the way O_o
For real though, if there's anything glaringly obvious that Im missing, please let me know.
I know you hate the 2860 vs the 2560. I dont want to talk about that neither do you.
Car: 2002 Miata SE (VVT, 6-sp, 3.9 Torsion) Supporting mods currently equipped: MS3 Pro, Wideband setup, Flat top w/t S2 TB, IAT, PS/AC delete, 2.5" mid pipe, 2.5" axle-back, cheap catch can... I believe thats all. Goals: A soft 250hp on WG pressure to start with, likely a 12# spring and wherever that lands me. I just want to get this off the ground and get a grip with everything Im doing. From there, who knows but likely, Ill be happy with where I land when this is turn-key.
A 12lb spring may be a bit much for initial tuning. I'd use an 8 and tune it (may be 6 or 12 actual pounds with an 8). Then use EBC to get higher if needed.
A 12lb spring may be a bit much for initial tuning. I'd use an 8 and tune it (may be 6 or 12 actual pounds with an 8). Then use EBC to get higher if needed.
A 2560 will bend stock rods. That means anything more will mostly just contribute additional lag. I don't care if you don't want to hear it. I feel it needs to be said.
I run BKR8EIX at 240kpa on stock NA8 coils. I would highly recommend those over the copper heat range 7s you list.
I wouldn't use a clutch for a turbo application if they won't even make a claim to the torque capacity. I would highly recommend a flyin Miata lvl 1 instead.
A 2560 will bend stock rods. That means anything more will mostly just contribute additional lag. I don't care if you don't want to hear it. I feel it needs to be said.
I run BKR8EIX at 240kpa on stock NA8 coils. I would highly recommend those over the copper heat range 7s you list.
I wouldn't use a clutch for a turbo application if they won't even make a claim to the torque capacity. I would highly recommend a flyin Miata lvl 1 instead.
We're not talking about 2860 vs xxxx
I have spark plugs accounted for but since you brought it up, what is the benefit of one over the other? That was pulled from an FM reccomendation I read. No idea how old the post was.
The FM clutches are CC clutches. So...
Worst case its an FM stg 1 equivalent. Best case, its an FM stg 2 equivalent. I feel like the first is more likely.
I have spark plugs accounted for but since you brought it up, is there any benefit of one over the other? That was pulled from an FM reccomendation I read. No idea how old the post was.
The FM clutches are CC clutches. So...
Why ask for opinions when you're going to so arrogantly defend your choices?
Yes the FM clutches are made by CC. Why does starting that very well known fact defend your choice? Are you implying they are the same clutch? Cause they're definitely not.
Edit: I got ninja edited on the FM1 or FM2 equivalent part but I'm very confident the clutch you propose is neither.
Your target is roughly where people start having trouble with stock coils and standard copper electrode plugs. People have consistently pushed further on stock coils with iridium plugs.
I felt the need to share my opinion on turbo choice because threads like this aren't here just for your benefit. They're also going to be used by other noobs in the future and I want those kids to have a delightful torque curve.
Why ask for opinions when you're going to so arrogantly defend your choices?
Why does every try-hard here lead with this reasoning when they're called out for being a try-hard? I didnt ask your opinion on the clutch. I explicitly asked for people to keep their turbo opinions to themselves as well
I asked if I was missing anything from my list that will prevent me from getting this thing off the ground. Though I did try to engage you on the one ~useful part of your post. Whats keeps these threads from being useful to others is folks like you who cant resist trying throw their ego around, cluttering up an otherwise straightforward thread.
Yes I read that literal same comment this morning. I am curious what specs of theirs differ from the OTS kit sold by CC.... for this exact application. I'd warrant not a whole lot.
Please refrain from posting if you have nothing useful to add. Thnx.
Got yourself an intake, i.e. air filter? Got yourself a heat shield to isolate your air filter from your turbo? Got yourself a heat shield to isolate your turbo from the master cylinders?
Got yourself an intake, i.e. air filter? Got yourself a heat shield to isolate your air filter from your turbo? Got yourself a heat shield to isolate your turbo from the master cylinders?
I do have an intake routing/shielding config plan but I did not consider heat shielding from the master cylinder. Is that pretty necessary? Even with the low mount setup?
IDK where the Kraken manifold locates the snail; it's up to you. At a minimum I'd wrap the plastic bits in reflective tape or some other kind of heat insulation.
Cover that left front brake line right there next to the manifold and the plastic master cylinder reservoir at a minimum. If you are planning on using it on the track I would shield everything, including where the throttle cable and heater hoses are.
These are about the only photos I've found so far and with my car being tucked away, I havent gotten in there to start visually planning.
Once things start showing up and I can get the car dug out, heat management planning will definitely be a priority. Thank you again.
I did buy the Hawley coolant housing reroute this morning so thats at least one less rubber thing running right through there.
This is what I plan on MC heat shielding on mine. Dimensions are in mm and measured with a ruler on the cardboard, so not 100% verified.
(Don't mind the dirty car or my valve cover)
Plan to cut it in 1mm aluminum, roll some beads on the flat sides and add stick-on foam insulation on the inside (armaflex is quite cheap and effective).
I do have an intake routing/shielding config plan but I did not consider heat shielding from the master cylinder. Is that pretty necessary? Even with the low mount setup?
Thank you for the constructive comment
As everyone else pointed out, I would (and I did) do it. There's a lot of heat being generated under there and I'd hate to be cruising on the highway at ~60mph when my master brake cylinder melts and I lose the brakes. Doesn't hurt to have a little bit of extra insurance.
Also as for input, I see that you're planning to run a coolant reroute, but I didn't see any mention if you already have an upgraded radiator or were planning to? It isn't necessarily required, but if you're going as far as you're already going an aluminum radiator may be something to add to the list of parts.
I had something similar going on with the intake box I built. Looks like round 2 is in order. Tbh, I thought the manifold would be keeping the turbo/heat low enough but looking at these photos I took last night, it'll be far from clear of the master.
Gonna have to figure out something for the washer bottle and catch can as well I spose.
I was planning on routing the intake for the turbo into the same spot as is it now. Probably just elongate the whole so it's able to come in at an angle.
I also need to figure out how to edit photo sizes before posting. Its been a while since I've forum'd regularly.
As everyone else pointed out, I would (and I did) do it. There's a lot of heat being generated under there and I'd hate to be cruising on the highway at ~60mph when my master brake cylinder melts and I lose the brakes. Doesn't hurt to have a little bit of extra insurance.
Also as for input, I see that you're planning to run a coolant reroute, but I didn't see any mention if you already have an upgraded radiator or were planning to? It isn't necessarily required, but if you're going as far as you're already going an aluminum radiator may be something to add to the list of parts.
No reroute, just an alternative water pump inlet solution to clear up room around the turbo and reroute the rad hose out of the way. Hawley Performance LLC
02-19-2020, 06:45 PM
Another "plz check my list" nub thread.
neither do you.
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