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Old 10-28-2009, 09:22 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saint_foo View Post
That may be true....but I'm pretty sure EGTs can reach in excess of 1600 degrees. If you've got a line feeding a turbo, it's not too far from basically a HUGE heat source. I don't know how much heat dissipates within a few inches of radiation...but I would imagine that it's possible to see really high temps in the center of the turbo. Is it possible that it could lead to eventually fatigue/part failure? Just curious.
It may have happened, but from personal experience working/welding with aluminum every day this is what i think. Aluminum dissipates heat at a high rate compared to steel. The oil supplying the turbo will also cool the lines. I would doubt it unless you were out of oil and really rev happy at which point your turbo would not make boost anymore. More than likely you will catch up on this and stop driving before your fittings blow.
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:23 PM   #22
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i'm just curious why doesnt any one use hard lines like the brake lines?

Since the turbo is bolted and not moving whats the problem?
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:09 AM   #23
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first off that noob on the last page needs to introduce himself or there will be problems... and second OP get a hold of artech he's got good quality kits in all sizes and price ranges!!
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:09 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
i'm just curious why doesnt any one use hard lines like the brake lines?

Since the turbo is bolted and not moving whats the problem?
maybe it's too much effort and no one wants that ugly **** anyway unless it's made by a robot......
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:13 AM   #25
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I dont really see an upside with hard lines vs rubber ( for the MT.netters). With the SS braided its bendable and can be reused for different turbo kits. The hard lines would have to be manufactured specifically for the turbo kit. Why fix something that aint broke?
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:34 AM   #26
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Also whats wrong with bending the pipe? Its not hard and will be much more durable especially since you can use brackets to hold it in place

If you are switching turbo kits like you switch socks thats another story.

Last edited by triple88a; 10-30-2009 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:54 AM   #27
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Pipe doesnt just bend unless you know what your doing. It has to be massaged to prevent pinching. Pinched lines = bad churby. Most likely will cost more and isnt worth the time. Call me old fashioned but i think the SS braided lines are; cheaper, look better, same performance, reusable, flexible, and just plain cool.
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:58 AM   #28
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buy a tool to bend the line.. its very easy.
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:10 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
buy a tool to bend the line.. its very easy.
getting a good seal on the ends of hard lines can be a pain, and getting the right fittings would be too, its just not worth it. But by all means, make your kit with all hard lines and post pictures, I would like to see it.
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:00 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
i'm just curious why doesnt any one use hard lines like the brake lines?

Since the turbo is bolted and not moving whats the problem?
Many quality OEM turbo sets have hard lines for oil feed and return.
So there is no problem to do it with hard lines.

Here's pic how MB have done the oil lines:
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:02 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by p51hellfire View Post
first off that noob on the last page needs to introduce himself or there will be problems... and second OP get a hold of artech he's got good quality kits in all sizes and price ranges!!
Hopefully you don't mean me.
Me not
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:34 PM   #32
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I think if I was on a lonely highway in the middle of nowhere I'd want to have the peace of mind of knowing my oil fittings didn't come from Ebay.
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:48 PM   #33
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There's just some things you shouldn't trust ebay for...The problem I've always had with ebay is things are close but not perfect. The ad says for a garret t25 but that's not what you end up getting...etc.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:46 PM   #34
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^ the man is right.

That's a universal kit. More than likely you will need additional parts to make everything fit and that will likely bring the price to something higher than one of the better kits. For starters, that turbo inlet flange does not fit a T25, so if that's what you have, you will need an adapter for it. Also, the oil pan fitting they're including is a weld on bung. Unless you want to drop the subframe, you'll need an adapter fitting for this as well. Those brass tees, are known to break off. I've personally had it happen. To prevent it, you may need a looped copper line between the tee and block. Also, the tee is NPT threaded. You will cross-thread your BSPT oil pressure sender by screwing it directly. It's not clear if a BSPT>NPT adapter is included for the block, if not, you will strip that as well.

I would also question the quality of their SS feed line. You want a teflon inner liner to handle the heat. Judging by the size of that line, I'd bet its rubber lined, which is only good for 200-250F.

If you have a 90-95 block the best setup is what I have in my sig. The motor already has a oil port on the drivers side so you don't need to tee into the oil pressure sender at all.
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Old 10-31-2009, 02:17 AM   #35
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Hard coolant lines break, unless you use stainless, and you'll make one bend with that **** and then buy all braided stainless stuff.
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Old 10-31-2009, 07:19 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Hard coolant lines break, unless you use stainless, and you'll make one bend with that **** and then buy all braided stainless stuff.
Properly made and supported mild steel lines shouldn't break, but if you're going to go to the trouble might as well use stainless.

Someone said further back that hard lines are hard to get sealed. This can be true if you're using flared lines, but for water lines an industrial compression fitting is stupid simple and you have to work to make them not seal up. For low pressure water lines (and really even the oil lines are low pressure from an industrial standpoint), the compression fittings are more than adequate.

That said... I'm going to make mine from Earls fittings and hose, much easier to make and route.
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:16 PM   #37
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:25 PM   #38
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At this point looking at all of the people on this site that have done it, or redone it, some cases multiple times, think Tim, or Hustler. Why not just go with whats been proven to work. Innovation is one thing, but hard lines aren't innovation.

Last edited by apariah; 11-01-2009 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:42 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbkcocker499 View Post
It may have happened, but from personal experience working/welding with aluminum every day this is what i think. Aluminum dissipates heat at a high rate compared to steel. The oil supplying the turbo will also cool the lines. I would doubt it unless you were out of oil and really rev happy at which point your turbo would not make boost anymore. More than likely you will catch up on this and stop driving before your fittings blow.
What this man said, I don't see any issue with the properties of the eGay lines, but for $20 extra if they're guaranteed to fit, I'm buying somewhere else.
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:20 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARTech View Post
^ the man is right.

That's a universal kit. More than likely you will need additional parts to make everything fit and that will likely bring the price to something higher than one of the better kits. For starters, that turbo inlet flange does not fit a T25, so if that's what you have, you will need an adapter for it. Also, the oil pan fitting they're including is a weld on bung. Unless you want to drop the subframe, you'll need an adapter fitting for this as well. Those brass tees, are known to break off. I've personally had it happen. To prevent it, you may need a looped copper line between the tee and block. Also, the tee is NPT threaded. You will cross-thread your BSPT oil pressure sender by screwing it directly. It's not clear if a BSPT>NPT adapter is included for the block, if not, you will strip that as well.

I would also question the quality of their SS feed line. You want a teflon inner liner to handle the heat. Judging by the size of that line, I'd bet its rubber lined, which is only good for 200-250F.

If you have a 90-95 block the best setup is what I have in my sig. The motor already has a oil port on the drivers side so you don't need to tee into the oil pressure sender at all.
I think they are the same, but this setup will fit a Garrett t3 as well?
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