BEGI drilled 10mm turbo stud holes too close together, what to do? - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 06-11-2012, 03:47 AM   #1
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Default BEGI drilled 10mm turbo stud holes too close together, what to do?



Holes are too close together. Can I just bore them out a bit to the outside, or will that make my turbo prone to vibration?

I'm not going to talk to BEGI about this, I would rather not do business with them again (this and other things).
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:56 AM   #2
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Can you tighten them in a pattern instead of cranking them down? Otherwise I dont think it'd be too much of a problem to bore it out, as long as youre careful and dont overdo it
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:04 AM   #3
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I'm worried that if I try a pattern it'll beat the heck out of my (inconel $$$$) studs.

Or that if I bore it out it'll be uneven matching of the ports... or that it could be right now. Ugh. BEGI.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:08 AM   #4
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How much are we talking? I'd bore the turbo flange. You want the turbo to slide over de studs loosely not tight. The nuts are for tightening.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:48 AM   #5
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Bored it out a little. Fits tightly, but I don't want to take it down more than I need to.

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Old 06-11-2012, 01:42 PM   #6
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Open the holes in the turbo, its not that hard. If its still too tight, go bigger..
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:07 PM   #7
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I feel for you on this. I've had my own set of issues with BEGi, will not be working with them again.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:09 PM   #8
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retarded as hell. sorry.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:19 PM   #9
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Simply drill out the holes on the turbo flange. Most new turbos I have seen have been drilled for M8 studs and the turbo flange has to be drilled out for the M10 hardware.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:22 PM   #10
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LUL another bash begi thread.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:23 PM   #11
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not to turn this into a hate thread but i had the same issue. I just bored mine out a little too and haven't had any issues with it put about 50k on it. I also had problems with my downpipe mating correctly in it's 2 piece design (exhaust leak). The o2 bung was also on crooked so I had to plug it and weld another on. I'm sure they would have fixed it after i spent another $60 in shipping which they wouldn't cover. make me pay for your mistakes. thanks. never again.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Simply drill out the holes on the turbo flange. Most new turbos I have seen have been drilled for M8 studs and the turbo flange has to be drilled out for the M10 hardware.
Yeah. I paid BEGI to drill out to M10.

I should have specified in my order to 'drill in the correct spots.' :P
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:12 PM   #13
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:P How do you know its not Garretts holes that are off?
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
:P How do you know its not Garretts holes that are off?
I wouldn't know, considering I'd never seen this brand new turbo before I got it drilled out.

But if Garrett couldn't get the tolerance on stud holes that fit loosely, their CHRAs would have above a 100% failure rate. :P
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:15 PM   #15
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Different parts have different tolerances. Drills do walk. You should have measured both parts, distance between the holes on the turbo (all 4) and then distance between the studs. With a caliper.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
Different parts have different tolerances. Drills do walk. You should have measured both parts, distance between the holes on the turbo (all 4) and then distance between the studs. With a caliper.
Obviously they have different tolerences. Otherwise my point would have been nonsensical.

Advice unimportant, it's on my car now. Maybe the next person can use a caliper.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:25 PM   #17
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Its ok the garrett turbo will fail soon enough.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:28 PM   #18
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It just needs to last long enough to get a built engine!

Then it's EFR timez.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:28 PM   #19
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Wtf, double post?

Last edited by Nagase; 06-11-2012 at 06:44 PM.
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