Best swaps EVARS...plus boost
05-21-2013, 10:58 PM
#62
can't wait to have 4 cyl of 1600cc powhaaaaa! 
Am I the only one who noticed that car is no where near British Racing Green? lol or is the car this beast is going in is BRG?
I feel like a retard for posting here now
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05-22-2013, 01:08 PM
#67
Elite Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,524
Total Cats: 31
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05-23-2013, 02:27 PM
#72
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,176
Total Cats: 1,680
Unbolt the cat from the header and the rest of the exhaust.
Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft to the differential and then pull out the drive shaft.
Unplug the 4 wires on the top of the transmission and the speedo line.
Drain fluids from the trans, engine, radiator.
Unbolt the 3 17mm and 2 14mm bolts from the PPF to the transmission.
Unbolt the clutch slave and hard lines from transmission.
Remove the coolant lines from the upper and lower radiator and the heater hose lines.
Unplug all the electrical connections.
Remove the radiator.
Disconnect the fuel lines.
Unbolt the 2 14mm motor mounts.
Pull out motor.
That should be a rough list of what all needs to happen to pull the motor, then reverse the steps to put it back in. Make sure you pull the trans and motor as one unit and put them back in together.
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05-23-2013, 02:39 PM
#73
aggressive
Thanks!
Seems like you have done this a few times.....
also will the trans fluid leak out when the driveshaft is removed? what fluid do you recommend? redline mt90?
Unplug the battery.
Unbolt the cat from the header and the rest of the exhaust.
Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft to the differential and then pull out the drive shaft.
Unplug the 4 wires on the top of the transmission and the speedo line.
Drain fluids from the trans, engine, radiator.
Unbolt the 3 17mm and 2 14mm bolts from the PPF to the transmission.
Unbolt the clutch slave and hard lines from transmission.
Remove the coolant lines from the upper and lower radiator and the heater hose lines.
Unplug all the electrical connections.
Remove the radiator.
Disconnect the fuel lines.
Unbolt the 2 14mm motor mounts.
Pull out motor.
That should be a rough list of what all needs to happen to pull the motor, then reverse the steps to put it back in. Make sure you pull the trans and motor as one unit and put them back in together.
Unbolt the cat from the header and the rest of the exhaust.
Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft to the differential and then pull out the drive shaft.
Unplug the 4 wires on the top of the transmission and the speedo line.
Drain fluids from the trans, engine, radiator.
Unbolt the 3 17mm and 2 14mm bolts from the PPF to the transmission.
Unbolt the clutch slave and hard lines from transmission.
Remove the coolant lines from the upper and lower radiator and the heater hose lines.
Unplug all the electrical connections.
Remove the radiator.
Disconnect the fuel lines.
Unbolt the 2 14mm motor mounts.
Pull out motor.
That should be a rough list of what all needs to happen to pull the motor, then reverse the steps to put it back in. Make sure you pull the trans and motor as one unit and put them back in together.
Seems like you have done this a few times.....
also will the trans fluid leak out when the driveshaft is removed? what fluid do you recommend? redline mt90?
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05-23-2013, 02:54 PM
#76
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,176
Total Cats: 1,680
The trans should not leak much fluid out the back when the driveshaft is removed. You can drain all the fluids before you remove the drive shaft if you want. The fill bolt will be a square bolt that some sized 12point socket should fit, the drain bolt for the trans is a 24mm I believe. For new trans fluid Amsoil MTG 75-90 is the only fluid you should use. Hit up Savington on here who owns Trackspeed Engineering for the hook up on Amsoil products.
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05-23-2013, 03:13 PM
#77
Newb
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 8
Total Cats: 0
what about limp-i-corn oil? I need to save money on this build.
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