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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 05-20-2013, 06:22 PM   #61
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:58 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daclips View Post
OP's friend delivers! pics of engine running. we think it could be burning oil. the sexilicious british racing green mazda miata shall live again!!! can't wait to have 4 cyl of 1600cc powhaaaaa!


Am I the only one who noticed that car is no where near British Racing Green? lol or is the car this beast is going in is BRG?

I feel like a retard for posting here now
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:27 AM   #63
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everyone that posted in this thread feels like a retard cause the thread went full retard
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:32 AM   #64
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I need an adult, I need an adult!
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:37 AM   #65
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:43 PM   #66
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i heart you guys so much
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:08 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Good curb episode right there!
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:45 PM   #68
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so this weekend some good stuffs will get done, prolly get the engine ready to pull, swap necessary parts over and what not. Pretty much lots of good pushes all around.

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Best swaps EVARS...plus boost-pushitrealgooddoorsign.jpg  
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:07 PM   #69
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Pics of the swap. I want to laugh.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:42 PM   #70
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will do.

As I havent pulled a miata engine out before, and hot tips (awww yea dem tips) to make it slide in and out smoothly?
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:56 PM   #71
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Hammer, Sawzall, pry bar.
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:27 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duhafnusa4 View Post
will do.

As I havent pulled a miata engine out before, and hot tips (awww yea dem tips) to make it slide in and out smoothly?
Unplug the battery.
Unbolt the cat from the header and the rest of the exhaust.
Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft to the differential and then pull out the drive shaft.
Unplug the 4 wires on the top of the transmission and the speedo line.
Drain fluids from the trans, engine, radiator.
Unbolt the 3 17mm and 2 14mm bolts from the PPF to the transmission.
Unbolt the clutch slave and hard lines from transmission.
Remove the coolant lines from the upper and lower radiator and the heater hose lines.
Unplug all the electrical connections.
Remove the radiator.
Disconnect the fuel lines.
Unbolt the 2 14mm motor mounts.
Pull out motor.

That should be a rough list of what all needs to happen to pull the motor, then reverse the steps to put it back in. Make sure you pull the trans and motor as one unit and put them back in together.
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:39 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Hammer, Sawzall, pry bar.
aggressive

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Unplug the battery.
Unbolt the cat from the header and the rest of the exhaust.
Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft to the differential and then pull out the drive shaft.
Unplug the 4 wires on the top of the transmission and the speedo line.
Drain fluids from the trans, engine, radiator.
Unbolt the 3 17mm and 2 14mm bolts from the PPF to the transmission.
Unbolt the clutch slave and hard lines from transmission.
Remove the coolant lines from the upper and lower radiator and the heater hose lines.
Unplug all the electrical connections.
Remove the radiator.
Disconnect the fuel lines.
Unbolt the 2 14mm motor mounts.
Pull out motor.

That should be a rough list of what all needs to happen to pull the motor, then reverse the steps to put it back in. Make sure you pull the trans and motor as one unit and put them back in together.
Thanks!

Seems like you have done this a few times.....

also will the trans fluid leak out when the driveshaft is removed? what fluid do you recommend? redline mt90?
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:42 PM   #74
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Amsoil unicorn jizz.
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:45 PM   #75
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ahh, i hear that can handle the heat and grinding quite well, even under constant pressure...
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:54 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duhafnusa4 View Post
Seems like you have done this a few times.....

also will the trans fluid leak out when the driveshaft is removed? what fluid do you recommend? redline mt90?
A few times would be an understatement. I have done it a few times just this year.

The trans should not leak much fluid out the back when the driveshaft is removed. You can drain all the fluids before you remove the drive shaft if you want. The fill bolt will be a square bolt that some sized 12point socket should fit, the drain bolt for the trans is a 24mm I believe. For new trans fluid Amsoil MTG 75-90 is the only fluid you should use. Hit up Savington on here who owns Trackspeed Engineering for the hook up on Amsoil products.
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:13 PM   #77
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what about limp-i-corn oil? I need to save money on this build.

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Old 05-23-2013, 04:30 PM   #78
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If you want to save money, building a turbo car is the wrong way to do it.
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:15 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
If you want to save money, building a turbo car is the wrong way to do it.
It all depends on context. It's certainly cheaper than building an n/a car. N/A is the expensive way to go slow.
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:16 PM   #80
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Props for that post Nuge. I never understand the desire to cheap out on critical points when pursuing higher horsepower.
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