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Old 11-28-2007, 04:45 PM   #21
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i/c is likely full of oil.

you tap it from the bottom, right under the a/c.. There's a ton of threads on here about where and how to tap it.
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Old 11-29-2007, 05:15 AM   #22
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id love to give you a leakdown test..but i have no idea how to do a leakdown or compression. The exhaust manifold is warped so im pulling that off again and having it ground down During that time i can check the turbo and re route the oil line.
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Old 11-29-2007, 10:31 AM   #23
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without specialty tools, the easiest test i can think of, ruling out the turbo, is removing the oil feed and idling.

the turbine is barely spinning at idle, and not having oil passing through it wont damage it for a few minutes of idling. the residue is enough. make sure to plug the feed so you don't spray oil a few feet through the air.

with that said, if it still smokes after giving it a chance to burn off the oil, suspect the engine itself is throwing the oil through the exhaust and not the turbo.
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Old 11-29-2007, 11:20 AM   #24
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the fact is, if he had a severely blocked oil supply, all of his intercooler piping and the intercooler it self is full of oil.

On a xB we had issues with... just driving around the block a couple times, we managed to fill the intercooler with over 16 ozs of oil, and of course all the piping had a oily film inside it... etc etc.


Removing the oil supply line sounds like a terrible idea for the turbo.
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Old 11-29-2007, 11:26 AM   #25
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it wont hurt idling. Hell, he can remove the intake and still idle the car with the AFM unplugged and hold the wheel and prevent it from spinning.

true about the pipes, but ive done the same, and after idling a few minutes the smoke resided.

whatever, im just trying to find creative ways to rule one or the other out really fast. no point pulling and rebuilding a turbo and reinstalling it if the rings are dead.
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Old 11-30-2007, 10:41 PM   #26
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if you need your turbo rebuilt let me know PM me i have some guys here almost locally that do an amazing job. maybe they can help you out. I got my super 60 done there and they give you one year warranty on the turbo and parts after the rebuild.

on another note if you just rebuilt the turbo yourself and changed the seals, you should be running normal engine oil for the first 3000 miles. The synthetic oil is too thin for the fresh seals and they can not seal correctly. i had this problem and just changing the oil to 10w30 did it for me. remember i had the turbo professionally rebuilt and it was still smoking with synthetic oil in it. brake the turbo in with normal motor oil. that can be one suggestion.

i also have a home made kit and it works perfectly fine. keep building them.
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Old 12-01-2007, 12:46 AM   #27
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turbo "seals" are not seals. they are typically a thin c-ring. it's the pressure differentals that acutally prevent leakage and why too much oil pressure causes them to leak.
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Old 12-01-2007, 12:51 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
whatever, im just trying to find creative ways to rule one or the other out really fast. no point pulling and rebuilding a turbo and reinstalling it if the rings are dead.
Buying a $20 compression tester from AZ would be pretty fast.
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Old 12-01-2007, 04:51 AM   #29
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ok so..
Re-route the oil line somehow onto the turbo side of pan.
Change oil to 10w30
Buy a cheap compression tester(which I have no idea how to use)

Sound like a good start?
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Old 12-01-2007, 04:58 AM   #30
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ok so i just read up on how to do it. it looks easy. The only thing is, how important is it to drive it hard for a bit then do the test? Right now the problem is lots of smoke(maybe another fire). Stuff that makes me barely want to idle the car, def not drive it.
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Old 12-01-2007, 11:22 AM   #31
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ok
Was the engine smoking prior to the turbo?
can you take a picture of your oil return? it has to have a slight slope to it, it can not go straight down and than curve. did you change all the seals in the turbo? I do understand that they are metal C rings but they still need thicker oil to get some buildup around the seals so they don't leak. trust me i know this for sure i had a problem similar to this.
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Old 12-01-2007, 01:06 PM   #32
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dont drive it hard, idle it for 10 minutes. dirving hard is the last thing you ever want to do right now....
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Old 12-01-2007, 02:28 PM   #33
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no there was no smoking, and I even drove the car a little while before the fire which was also before the fire. I then changed the seal bolted everything back and drove it for a 2 days with no smoke or maybe just a few wisps. But not almost as soon as I start it there are plooms of smoke coming out if ther eare any revs higher then idle.
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Old 12-01-2007, 04:29 PM   #34
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Dude i hate to say it but it sounds like rings to me, if there really is that much smoke- white smoke like you say than that is not oil burning, its coolant and that usually indicates bad rings/head gasket.

Easy way to find out is to make the first thing on your list to do a compression/leakdown test. If it is fucked than you can start searching for a new motor/rebuild this one.

Gl
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Old 12-01-2007, 07:59 PM   #35
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had very similar problem. thought the turbo seals may just be leaking but did a compression test to find 190 190 90 185. tore the engine down an found that on one edge of piston number 3 was worn down badly could see rings with piston still in block took piston out an part of piston between rings fell out. so im currently in the process of an engine rebuild. bought the car turboed from a 60 year old man that owned it the entire life of the car. bought it in 1990 put the turbo on in 1994 an i got it about 4 months ago the went out on me. the car only had original 47000 miles. any idea why this happend? the turbo set up is a cartech system with old school FMu. has large intercooler, stock internals, port an polished head, ihi really small turbo but does the job well, dyno'd at 249hp an 225tq. last dyno run was 179hp 150tq should have rebuild done by end of month thank god i work in a shop whould never get things done as fast if i didnt.
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