Also altho the airflow meter does technically measure air temps in some circumstances..

Its job is to measure air Flow As in the amount of air entering your air system. A stock n/a ecu is not supposed to be in the positive pressure section of your air piping.

Not temps like i can understand some people might be confused. You have a Intake air temp probe that does this

The misfiring was because it was running way too rich, excessive fuel not been burned, when it reaches the exhaust and high temps on the pipe it ignites like a potato bazooka, LOL. Real quick I removed fuel around 4000 to 5000 rpm range, lowered a few pounds fuel pressure and went for a few more passes, no more back-firing. The car lowers revs without any hesitation, as if it was naturally aspirated, idle is smooth and mean, almost like a growling sound LOL. I have 2.5 downpipe, no cat or resonator all the way to a straight magna-flow muffler. Nothing flashy to call the cops. Wastegate is opened to the atmosphere well routed for minimal heat on engine bay. Car always runs cold and never goes above half temps, thermostat removed.

Car has no A/C, manual power steering, lightened flywheel, titanium pulley, adjustable cam gears and few other toys... Polyurethane engine mounts and sway bar bushings, B+G springs with KYB struts, front and rear upper strut bars...

Do not worry, the vehicle is on towers right now, as I disconnected the Wideband for stupid warranty. So I am checking the suspension, bushings, wiring, etc while I wait for it to come back.

Yes, I know what the SAFC does, I have also a pressure I need to connect as well. The wideband put eveyrthing else on hold, after I worked my ashs off installing it that POS decided to stop working out of the blue. Trust me I did all the calibration , grounding source, led, ground switch as stated, O2 location etc etc. Of all things that was the one I did make sure to work fine...

I have also a E-Manage, but the laptop deal pisses me off of having to use there own interface and going back ten years on a computer because of a serial port. The SAFC is so practical so for now I will stay with the Apexi.

I know the engineers at Mazda are more intelligent than me and designed the AFM to be before the turbo and not to be pressurized. All I have to say I am not the first one who has done similar setup. Know friends who are running it the same way for years without any problems.

I want pics



Also,
:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Check this out it will solve your compatibility problem.

USB to RS232 Serial 9 Pin DB9 Cable Adapter PC/Mac/GPS - eBay (item 250528530077 end time Nov-11-09 12:15:02 PST)

buy this and throw the safc in the garbage.

Blow up yet?

EDIT:
Also, I want pics of the car. Because frankly I think youre full of shit.

wtf?

I forgot I had two accounts on miataturbo, so let me stick with the original one.

Its magic that it hasnt blown up yet.
you gotta ditch that safc and put a real tune on it.

Its Magic
 

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Walbro fuel pump (for Miata), I had to change a little the mount to make it fit.

Just to let you know it is on a Mazda 323, everything else is the same. In fact the SAFC settings are from a Miata diagram, only difference is making the changes for RX7 flap sensor.

It has Miata 10@1 cast pistons, all internals besides the pistons swap are stock.

I know the wiring is a mess, I just wanted to install the turbo before working anymore on the car.
If it did not work I was done with the car, but fortunately it is 2nd of december and engine running strong, I am having fun with STis, EVOs, Mustangs and even Infiniti G35s.

This was some of the muck up shots:

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At the time I was using a Power Steering canister as a Oil Catch Can, once I saw the turbo run fine, my morale went up and decided go ahead and install a Greddy catch a can (although any EBAy will work, mine was given to me by a friend). The adjustable cam gears are OBX for Miata, I swapped all the aluminum cheap bolts for black stronger ones.


And yes, it is magic!

My bad Full tilt boogie it got reposted, long time ago I forgot I had the other account, that is why I posted with the correct one. In other forums the mazpr name has been used and psi is the one I use.

I will stick with the SAFC, works perfect, car runs strong, no engine knocking ( I have the autospeed DIY knock sound amplifier) the Whistle 2000, and that DIY does work. Laugh all you want, I tune with that and is a breeze.

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/st...3/0353_8mg.jpg

The gig cost me plus / minus 30 or so dollars. Its incredible how I can spot the minimum amount of engine knock and still works at full boost with open wastegate.

Detonation Part 1


Detonation Part 2

There is no convincing you, so w/e

Running 15 psi, on a stock 10:1 CR bottom end, with a T3/T04, and a SAFC is one of the most insane things I have ever heard. You would be better off with an FMU than a SAFC.

Hmm this all sounds very interesting :facepalm: I say all the guys in jax meet up and check this car out. mazpr what part of town do you live at?

Lets rephrase it, where are you from?

Thatz madz JDMz yoz!!!!

I live in the beaches. I do think a little meet would be cool, I never see nodded miatas around town

Installed the wideband today, the settings done with the whisttle 2000 were very close to correct air fuel ratio as displayed on the Innovate wideband.

At full boost, around 8 to 10 on 210 compression cast pistons (Miata 10@1) it displayed 12 and sometimes 12.5. So the settings I did by looking at spark plugs, listening to knock with the sound amplifier were right on the spot, and it is just Magic.

Wow, congratulations of having proper AFRs, but that is not the point, the point is that the SAFC is not controlling JUST fuel, its just modifying the damn AFM reading, so although you're AFRs are okay, you have no idea what is happening with the timing, and you have no control over it.
Its just dumb...

Unfortunately there will be no part out for you, I am such a party pooper!

http://www.moenantikvariat.dk/Lidtfo...%B8g/farts.jpg

I'm not sure if someone answered his question already I might have missed it. Why is it bad for the BOV to be before the AFM? My BOV is on the hot side of the IC pipe and the AFM is on the cold side.

Because all the air being read by the AFM is going to dump through the BOV after it has been read and the car will go pig rich.

so wait, youre running a blow-through AFM too? wtf...