Build costs
I am looking to forge and turbo my na6 Miata. Though I’m not sure what price I’m going to be looking at for everything and wanted to see if there was anyone out there that has fully built a 1.6 and what the final cost ended up being. I will be doing all the work myself so shop time wouldn’t be added in.
$10-20k
And you bought the wrong year car.
Just buy this 1.6 car, it's all done.
https://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale...ale-obo-98251/
And you bought the wrong year car.
Just buy this 1.6 car, it's all done.
https://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale...ale-obo-98251/
Lars has a sticky that you should read. It's got most of your answers.
The 6 simple steps to reliably turbo your NA/NB
The 6 simple steps to reliably turbo your NA/NB
That's a huge amount of money to be in a non-Forged non-Turbod 1.6 car in any condition. A Mazdaspeed in good condition with 11.75 brakes, forged engine, EFR turbo, VVT head, 6 speed, coilovers, 6ul wheels, Trackspeed triple pass radiator, rollbar, air conditioning, and Lotus seats just went for under 10k.
It sounds like you are committed to this particular chassis so I will say no more about it.
Generally speaking it costs about five grand in parts alone if going with a budget kit like MK Turbo. A simple search will reveal list of necessary parts and prices since this question has been asked about twice a month for the last 10 years. The more recent search results will be relevant since there are newer options available.
It sounds like you are committed to this particular chassis so I will say no more about it.
Generally speaking it costs about five grand in parts alone if going with a budget kit like MK Turbo. A simple search will reveal list of necessary parts and prices since this question has been asked about twice a month for the last 10 years. The more recent search results will be relevant since there are newer options available.
Here is my cost break down to just turbo my 1.6 on a budget. Some of the items are used and some of the items where bought on Black Friday sales. I’m gonna install it this weekend.
$130.00 - Innovations Wideband AFR
$172.00 - FM Boost gauge/pillar
$719.00 - FM Turbo mAnifold/Downpipe/BOV
$368.00 - CXRacing Intercooler/Piping
$150.00 - Hybrid T25/T28 Turbo
$615.00- MegaSquirt 2 PNP
$319.00 - 640cc Flow Force injectors
$125.00 - Water/oil lines and fittings
$40.00 - Turbo Blanket / Spark plugs
Hope that helps.
$130.00 - Innovations Wideband AFR
$172.00 - FM Boost gauge/pillar
$719.00 - FM Turbo mAnifold/Downpipe/BOV
$368.00 - CXRacing Intercooler/Piping
$150.00 - Hybrid T25/T28 Turbo
$615.00- MegaSquirt 2 PNP
$319.00 - 640cc Flow Force injectors
$125.00 - Water/oil lines and fittings
$40.00 - Turbo Blanket / Spark plugs
Hope that helps.
^used parts and $150 turbo take the price down a lot but most people don't put a small $150 turbo on a forged engine.
$1,000 for rods and pistons and rings. $450 for clutch. $400 for boundary oil pump. $150 in engine gaskets. $400 for 3in exhaust and proper muffler.
$1,000 for rods and pistons and rings. $450 for clutch. $400 for boundary oil pump. $150 in engine gaskets. $400 for 3in exhaust and proper muffler.
This is true, my option was more for if we wanted to ditch the whole forge build. I didn’t even factor in the clutch and diff on my build either.
Definitely going to have to run an aftermarket ecu as well. If he is lucky maybe he can find one for less than $800. But to get a MS3 for that prices is probably not going to happen. Also will need gauges, an intercooler 1.8 diff, driveshaft and axles (unless going with a better option).
Thanks for all the help everyone. Was planning on doing a rebuild in the fall and wanted to see if I really needed to forge to have a reliable car. But from what everyone says a 200-250 whp stock motor seems to be reliable and a good power goal to stay between.
Last edited by DNMakinson; Jan 28, 2019 at 11:52 PM. Reason: Re-phrased response.
And no vtps, smaller fuel tank, smaller clutch and flywheel, can't use a skunk throttle body, worse breathing head, worse breathing intake manifold, less chassis bracing, and more I'm too sleepy to recall.
Obviously the na8 is better in all those ways but I was handed this car and didn’t buy it myself so I’m gonna work with what I have. Of course will be switching over diff axles driveshaft and all those goodies to be able to hold more power but making big power from such little displacement sounds pretty sick lol.






