DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?
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Old 01-29-2019, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by matrussell122 View Post
and brakes, and bump steer that is horrible,and small motor.

To build a 1.6 proper you need a NB motor,drivetrain, brakes, fuel tank, front subframe at the minimum
Why is an nb front subframe considered ďat a minimum?Ē Yah the suspension geometry changed slightly for camber curves but to say you need it at a minimum is a bit silly. I would agree that nb drivetrain and brakes should be swapped in. Not sure I agree on an nb fuel tank. I would have to double check but nb fuel tank is not a direct fit for na. Na8 fuel tank is only .8 of a gallon larger in size. I still donít see a larger fuel tank as a need for a proper build. But a larger sized tank would be a nice to have.
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Old 01-29-2019, 12:13 PM
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Letís not forget the 1.6 was designed to be turbocharged
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Old 01-29-2019, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by andym View Post
Why is an nb front subframe considered ďat a minimum?Ē Yah the suspension geometry changed slightly for camber curves but to say you need it at a minimum is a bit silly. I would agree that nb drivetrain and brakes should be swapped in. Not sure I agree on an nb fuel tank. I would have to double check but nb fuel tank is not a direct fit for na. Na8 fuel tank is only .8 of a gallon larger in size. I still donít see a larger fuel tank as a need for a proper build. But a larger sized tank would be a nice to have.
If you get a chance drive a 90-93 miata hard the bump steer is almost dangerous it is so bad. I have a 90 so this isnt even me doing guess work its first hand experience. If you only plan to street the car then it will be fine but on the track i consider it a necessary change.
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Old 01-29-2019, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by matrussell122 View Post
If you get a chance drive a 90-93 miata hard the bump steer is almost dangerous it is so bad. I have a 90 so this isnt even me doing guess work its first hand experience. If you only plan to street the car then it will be fine but on the track i consider it a necessary change.
I also drive an na6. Wasn't the bump steer corrected with the 93le tie rods?
Edit: Granted the only miata I have driven hard that was lowered would be my 92. I've driven an nb2 quite a bit but that is still at stock ride height with stock suspension so I don't feel it is a fair comparison.

edit2: now that I think about it some more. I donít think itís the subframe change that fixed the bumpsteer issue but the front spindle change that corrected the geometry for bumpsteer.

Last edited by andym; 01-29-2019 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:12 AM
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If you aren't tracking a car, most people are likely to notice the NA vs. NB nuances. A cheap way to improve the NA bump steer is a set of LE/R Package outer tie rod ends and steering rack spacers. Slightly cheaper and much easier than swapping to the NB front subframe. Here are my thoughts. Do what you want. Is the 1.6L the best engine for the platform? No, but you already own it. If you're on a budget, keep it, refresh it, get a MKTurbo or Kraken kit, and have fun!
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by matrussell122 View Post
If you get a chance drive a 90-93 miata hard the bump steer is almost dangerous it is so bad. I have a 90 so this isnt even me doing guess work its first hand experience. If you only plan to street the car then it will be fine but on the track i consider it a necessary change.
Sounds like you have/had something wrong with your car.
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by john_heenan View Post
Letís not forget the 1.6 was designed to be turbocharged
Miata.net is that way.
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:49 AM
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I mean it did have 28 year old rubber control arm bushings until this winter also.....
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:51 AM
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That sounds a more likely culprit for "dangerous."
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Old 01-30-2019, 11:31 AM
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Yeah, that doesn't sound like bump steer. That sounds like dangerous play in a bushing or joint and warrants inspection.
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Old 01-30-2019, 11:35 AM
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They all got replaced this winter. I was just in denial i guess. Ill remove myself from this situation Sorry guys

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Old 01-31-2019, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by john_heenan View Post
I am looking to forge and turbo my na6 Miata. Though I’m not sure what price I’m going to be looking at for everything and wanted to see if there was anyone out there that has fully built a 1.6 and what the final cost ended up being. I will be doing all the work myself so shop time wouldn’t be added in.
You won't find much love the 1.6L on here. I think you can keep the engine pretty much stock and just do rods with great success if you really want to run some trans breaking power. As for costs, it will all depend on quality of parts and your abilities. I'v got a video when I built mine doing things as affordably as possibly. A DIY coolant reroute, used turbo/manifold, and a build-it-yourself DIYPNP2. If I could do it over again I would go MS3 and a cast manifold. Tube manifold was fine for a street/autocross car but if you wanna do some track time a cast manifold is about as reliable as it gets.
I was able to turbo my car for ~$2200, and that was ~4 years ago. Multiple track days, mountain runs, competitive local autocross. Stock 1.6L.
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Old 02-02-2019, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson View Post
Brakes will be weak for those power levels as well.
Has OP indicated whether this will be a track car or a street car?
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Old 02-02-2019, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 90civichhb View Post
You won't find much love the 1.6L on here. I think you can keep the engine pretty much stock and just do rods with great success if you really want to run some trans breaking power. As for costs, it will all depend on quality of parts and your abilities. I'v got a video when I built mine doing things as affordably as possibly. A DIY coolant reroute, used turbo/manifold, and a build-it-yourself DIYPNP2. If I could do it over again I would go MS3 and a cast manifold. Tube manifold was fine for a street/autocross car but if you wanna do some track time a cast manifold is about as reliable as it gets.
video
I was able to turbo my car for ~$2200, and that was ~4 years ago. Multiple track days, mountain runs, competitive local autocross. Stock 1.6L.
thank you for this I appreciate it. I probably will just do rods leave pistons oem. And yeah really not much love for the 1.6 on here lol
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Old 02-02-2019, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by huesmann View Post
Has OP indicated whether this will be a track car or a street car?
street, maybe track once a year. Could I get away with upgraded pads with 200-250whp?
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Old 02-02-2019, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by john_heenan View Post
street, maybe track once a year. Could I get away with upgraded pads with 200-250whp?
1.8 rotors are about $20-25 a piece. Pads are still pads. You seem to be buying them regardless. The only additional cost would be 1.8 caliper brackets which are about $60-70 on eBay. At the very least upgrade to 1.8 brakes.
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Old 02-02-2019, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by andym View Post
1.8 rotors are about $20-25 a piece. Pads are still pads. You seem to be buying them regardless. The only additional cost would be 1.8 caliper brackets which are about $60-70 on eBay. At the very least upgrade to 1.8 brakes.
Has anyone done 4 piston willwoods in the front and stock in the rear ? Since front brakes always do the most work ?
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Old 02-04-2019, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by john_heenan View Post
street, maybe track once a year. Could I get away with upgraded pads with 200-250whp?
I would start with pads and some ducting. If your first annual visit to the track produces sphincter pucker, upgrade. I don't think you're gonna notice much difference on the street.
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Old 02-04-2019, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by john_heenan View Post
Has anyone done 4 piston willwoods in the front and stock in the rear ? Since front brakes always do the most work ?
That sounds wild, fam. I don't think anyone has ever done that.
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Old 02-16-2019, 07:34 PM
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Default Total cost 1.6L

Here is a spreadsheet I made with the prices of ALL of the components that i have or will buy fpr my project excluding tools and consumables. It is in swedish but with google translate youll figure it out. There are also links to all the websites ive used to buy items.

Green = purchased

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...t?usp=drivesdk

If you have any questions regarding the spreadsheet just ask. The total is in SEK
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