Davinci

Hello, fellow like-minded people of Miataturbo.net this is my first post here and I hope that my 1.6L turbo build won't **** anyone off. (Don't worry, I won't be " radically boostin´ on a budget" and see what happens)

Anyway! During the last couple of months, I have been scrolling around the forums, reading build threads, turbo suggestions, and gathering general knowledge of how to turbocharge your Miata. The urge of ordering my first parts is growing stronger and stronger for every day that passes but before I buy anything I wanted to check with the Pros if my Shopping list is even a bit relevant and the general plan of how to execute the build is any good. The power goal is between 220-250HP.

Basic background information: The car is at the moment a stock with a 1.6L naturally aspirated engine. It has a limited slip differential and is in a good, working condition. It has about 16k Km on the clock ( 10k miles in ´murica units). The car is being used daily right now but I have other cars to use meanwhile this car is being built on. The plan, however, is to use it as a daily during the times of year where there is no road salt or snow on the roads.

The build plan that I have in mind will use the components that you can find in THIS spreadsheet that I have been working on for a while. If you go through the spreadsheet and find something that you think "Why TF would he use this, its 10-year-old tech", please let me know and give me a better alternative for it. All help is appreciated. As you might see the components in the spreadsheet aren't the cheapest ones, nor the most expensive ones. This is frankly due to me wanting to buy the best bang for buck items, without sacrificing quality. I am willing to pay a bit more for a product which I know is good and does what it claims. therefor no Ebay blow off valves, Cheap manifolds, ECU´s with less aftermarket support (221 platforms) and so on. Enough about that.

Onto the build itself. My initial plan was to purchase a Megasquirt PNP gen 2 due to the simplicity and easiness of tuning. As well as a wide group of users who use it = much support on the forums. I would install this and make my car run well with it, learning to tune and just getting a good feel for the software. I would at the same time install the wideband SPARTAN O2 sensor as well as a GM style AIT sensor to eliminate the MAF sensor and receive a good AFR reading. When this works well I would continue on and install a quad pair of Bosch 640CC EV14s and retune. With a working tune for the injectors, I would also take the time to mount a BMW VTPS to prepare for the future.

I would probably run this setup for a while to make sure it works as I want it to and in order to plan for the next part of the build: Welding a Turbo inlet manifold. Don't worry about this, I have a decent amount of welding experience and I have a father who has been welding for a big part of his life. This will be a straightforward Log style manifold with 90-degree bends and straight pipes, similar to the one MCM made for the Miata turbo series. Here I will buy a 1.6L Miata flange and a Subaru flange for the turbo side. The turbo I will be running is a TD04L-13T as I have seen many build threads use it with very good results. I also like the price tag on them. After the turbo is retrofitted I will mount the intercooler and do the piping between the throttle body and turbo to make sure everything lines up as I want it to, I will use silicone bends and 2.5-inch piping for this. At the same time, I will change the spark plugs, install the blow-off valve and the Oil and Water lines. After these steps, I will also fabricate a 3" straight pipe exhaust with dual tips as the previous owner of my car did. When this setup is working as I want it to on wastegate pressure I will add the MAC boost solenoid for boost control through the MSPNP 2 and start to tune for the 200PSI of boost I am aiming for.

As I have seen on the ´Tubez and read on the forums the original clutch also has to be changed. At what point in the build would this be the easiest? does it matter if I do it before the turbo conversion or after?

Basically, I want to do everything in the correct order to prevent any mishaps and to make sure every installed component is working. It also makes troubleshooting easier. I highly appreciate any help or tips that you guys can offer, I don't want to stress this build and buy cheap, bad parts that I will regret in the future.

Thanks in Advance
Davinci

PS: I have black racing stripes so I guess it already at like 160hp? I tried attaching a pic of my thing but I don't know if it worked

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

10 year old tech - MS2
35 year old tech - 1.6

Use an MS3 and a 1.8.

If you do not have a 1.8 rear differential and axles you will need to acquire them prior to adding the turbo. The 1.6 parts are too weak.

SpartanSV

Also the exedy stage 1 you listed in your spreadsheet is only rated for 131 ft/lbs. You really really want a FM level 1.

2 inch intercooler piping will be plenty for your goals and much easier to fit.

90LowNSlo

I am working on a very similar build to what you are planning. including the TD04 and MS2. I got my MS2 for $350 so I'm happy with it for what I paid. I haven't installed them yet because I still have some maintenance to do but I'm hoping to have it put together by the end of the month (a pipe dream probably). But yes FM clutch (will need a 1.8 flywheel), 2" IC pipes, and a rear end swap will all be needed. For the Flyin' Miata Clutch could you have one sent to you "as a gift"?

Davinci

I wish I bought a 1.8 instead of the 1.6 at the time. I was not planning on turboing back then so I did not mind the smaller displacement. Are the 1.8 axels and differential bolt on?

90LowNSlo

i THINK na8 (94-97) ones are but for NB rears/axles you'll need a drive shaft as well...

Davinci

Sounds like a splendid plan! I thought about that too, but any "gifts" valued over 1500SEK (170ish dollars) will be charged with importing fees (about 20 dollars+25% tax) and upon this shipping. which makes it too expensive.

SpartanSV

1.6 diff needs 1.6 driveshaft, 1.6 axles, 1.6 diff housing.

1.8 diff needs 1.8 driveshaft, 1.8 axles, 1.8 diff housing.

It's another huge reason to start with a 1.8 car when at all possible.

Davinci

I think it would be cheaper to sell my current car and buy a brand spanking used 1.8 instead of changing the entire rear drive assembly in that case,:/ Do you know how much fun the stock Na6 components can take?

matrussell122

iTrader: (1)

I'm at about 240 maybe 250 on my 1.6 with stock internals. But I'm selling all of it for my vvt build

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Many 1.6 rear differentials fail at stock power after a few years. Maybe you will be lucky or maybe you'll be stranded on the side of the road in a snowstorm and die. I don't want you to die. Get a 1.8.

Davinci

I don't want to die, but I have always been a "that day that problem" type of guy, but I don´t wanna die right now, especially not in a red Miata... with racing stripes.... due to a snowstorm.

Edit: Does it have to be a torsen LSD or can it be a normal diff from a 1.8L?

SpartanSV

Open 1.8 is just as strong.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

This is how i would proceed, i.e. sell the car and get one that's 94 or above, preferably with a torsen though that can be added later. Cheaper if it comes with the car though.

DaWaN

As far as I know, all MX-5 models got the bigger differential after 1994. For sure every NB has the bigger differential (also 1.6).
Please also be aware of the fact a lot of information is heavily biased around the American Miata, so not everything you read applies to the European market MX-5's.
Here in Europe there are a lot more 1.6 MX-5's around compared to the US, where they only got the 1.8 after 1994.
Is it easy to source MX-5 parts in Sweden? I am from the Netherlands and parts are plenty, especially from the UK.
You could consider sourcing a 1.8 engine for your current car, here in the Netherlands it is pretty easy to pick up a good 1.8 engine for 500 euros.

For a modest turbo build, using the 1.6 is not the end of the world I think. What kind of power do you want?
If you plan on roughly 200 whp, then you could keep using the stock 1.6 block and rods. Also the TD04L-13T is a good match for that engine and power.
If you want more power in the future, I would suggest investing in a 1.8 engine/car first.

Davinci

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

THIS STATEMENT MAKES YOU SOUND SMART. 100% agree.

DaWaN

If you turbo your current engine while building another one, you might be doing a lot of things twice.
In that case it makes much more sense to do things right and once instead of twice.
Certain crucial parts do not transfer over: especially the exhaust manifold.

But there also other factors like:
-You might want to buy an ECU which supports VVT if you are going to build a 1.8 VVT (which is the best engine to start with)
-You might want to buy a 1.8 flywheel so you can run a 1.8 clutch
-You might want to buy a 6 speed gearbox if you are going forged

So please make a straight plan.
I would either live with 200whp and keep things simple (use stock 1.6 block/rods, 5 speed box, TD04L-13T) and stay with that.
Or go all-out straight away: 1.8 VVT, 6 speed, forged build, ECU which supports VVT, etc.
All depends on budget and goals and those are very much linked together

Oh and if it comes to parts: I have good experience with Autolink UK for shipping small stuff and some local Dutch breakers.
No experience with shipping big stuff to Sweden. But getting 6 speed boxes, VVT engines, torsen diffs at good prices is no problem here

x_25

Use a 1.8 flywheel and clutch.

The 1.6 engine will be fine. It will spool a bit less and make a bit less power. Otherwise it will still be a hoot to drive. Yes, the 1.8 is better. But if they are hard to find there? Don't worry about it. And the only thing you will need to remake if you do 1.8 in the future will be the manifold and a modification to the downpipe.

My 1.6 VLSD held up to two years and about 12k miles at 150hp with a supercharger. My friends was fine for 10k making 170-180, but he had crap tires that didn't grip enough to let the diff break...

You can turbo on the 1.6 diff, but know you are on borrow time.

Also, you won't quite hit your goal with a TD04L-13T. It is going to max out right around 220hp at the rear wheels. Now if you were talking crank hp, you are golden.

I am actually in the process of turboing my 1.6 with with same turbo and a Kraken setup. Should be on in the next few weeks. Still on the stock diff (I have an MSM one in the shed, just hasn't gotten put on yet.)

Don't forget about oil lines and all that other small fidly stuff. Good luck with it.

Davinci