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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 05-20-2008, 03:59 AM   #1
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Default Chapman's Turbo & Parts

Hey, I haven"t posted that much but I've tried to do some reading here! This is just the basic layout of some of the stuff I'm using.
The Car is a 95 with 125,xxx, torsen lsd

GT2554, Ebay IC, Turbo Specialties Manifold, SS lines, Old FM DP
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Godspeed Rad
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95 MSPNP, (electric boost control, LC-1 to be hooked up)
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Enthuza Budget 2.5" w/ Magnaflow muffler and high flow cat.
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Soon to be violated enginebay
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Ouch. Michael Jackson pose.
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I'll have more picks throughout the process, I'm just waiting on a very few more items!(studs, different fittings for coolant lines). Hopefully everything will line up well
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Old 05-20-2008, 04:15 AM   #2
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Nice man, setup looks great so far! Lots of work to do yet.

Have you even driven the car with MSnS-PNP installed?
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Old 05-20-2008, 04:34 AM   #3
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he drove it from my house with that mspnp

anyone recognizes my old manifold and intercooler?


ps: call me, i have some VERY good news for you
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Old 05-20-2008, 04:42 AM   #4
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Nice build, how do you like the exhaust? Im buying the same thing now..

Post vids when its tuned!
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:18 PM   #5
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Yeah, I've driven about 300 miles with the MSpnp. It's pretty smooth, I just have a bit of an idling problem sometimes. I'll just have to fine tune it.

The exhaust is real nice. I've driven a couple of miles with the exhaust while N/A and damn that **** is loud haha. I was missing 2 bolts/nuts from the setup, but I just reused my old ones.

Urbansoot helped me set up the MS and helped me gather together almost all of my parts.

Also in the setup, I'll be using 440cc injectors.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:09 AM   #6
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Default Ummm, Huh?

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Did I get a busted turbo off of someone?
I removed the fitting that blocked the sight of this earlier today while I was in the garage and noticed a little hole!!! How bad is this? Fucked turbo bad? How would a hole like that even appear? What would it do if run as is?

I need help! I bought this off of someone from here and was told the turbo had about 3000 miles on it and is in perfect working condition.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:12 AM   #7
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Looks like that hole held a rivet for a tag but its in a weird location. If the hole doesn't leak oil and its just going into the threaded portion of the drain flange then I'm going to assume that its ok.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:42 AM   #8
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blow it... if you lose air pressure in your mouth, that means it's no good.... best and probably cheapest thing you can do is jb weld OR get someone to actually weld that spot shut
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:54 AM   #9
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JBWeld will not hold up to the temps of the CHRA.

It kinda looks like a production flaw. I've never seen anything like that though. How deep is it? If it's only a pinch deep, I don't think it's anything to worry about... but you might run some water and oil through it to see if it leaks. First time you fire it up, I'd be paying attention. It's on the top, so you can see it real good. You might also contact one of the professional turbo-rebuild shops and send them a pic to get a pro's guesstimate as to what it might be.
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Old 05-27-2008, 02:08 AM   #10
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you could also do the oil+water thing... totally forgot how hot the turbo would get.... but having someone weld that spot shut shouldn't be anymore than 2 seconds of work
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:08 PM   #11
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Well, tonight I'll try and take a better picture to illustrate exactly how deep it goes. Can this really be repaired by just a little weld? If so, that's not too bad. I guess I'll bring it over to my tuners shop for them to check out too. Any more opinions or help would be great!

On a better note, the downpipe, manifold, and turbo match up pretty perfectly. I did a test fit and it all lined up. I'm waiting on my hotside IC hoses from Flyin'Miata and new radiator hoses from Gates Racing. I may be using a flexible lower rad hose to get around the ic hose.

I decided to use the FM piping because it's sort of a DIY setup, and that added flexibility might really help out. I've got some bends and couplers to run coldside from the IC to the Bell pipe off the manifold.

I also bought a strip of aluminum to hang/mount my IC to the hood latch bolts.

When I get time to install everything I'll take more pics.
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:11 PM   #12
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I'm going to weld a bung near the far end of the d/p for the wideband, any preferred position/ angle? Also, what is the best paint for painting the manifold and downpipe? I'd like to paint them both black I think.
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:06 PM   #13
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You can try the bbq paint, but paint probably isn't going to hold up for very long. You should get them ceramic coated.
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Old 05-28-2008, 05:11 PM   #14
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So, I called ATP turbo, and talked to someone there about the hole. It ends up being that the hole is ok. The hole supposedly just goes to the threaded portion of the drain plug like cjernigan said. Apparently it could potentially be on every gt25 to gt3... It was a different process of making them, and now the process has changed. The metal in that portion of the turbo is thin, and sometimes when drilled for the plug threads this happens. I guess it may be on quite a few turbos.

This (my) turbo originated from a Begi-S kit.

I guess everything is ok, so we'll see...
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Old 05-28-2008, 05:26 PM   #15
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i hope i would have some free time so i could help you with install right now but im loaded with work for next month at least :/
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chapman View Post
So, I called ATP turbo, and talked to someone there about the hole. It ends up being that the hole is ok. The hole supposedly just goes to the threaded portion of the drain plug like cjernigan said. Apparently it could potentially be on every gt25 to gt3... It was a different process of making them, and now the process has changed. The metal in that portion of the turbo is thin, and sometimes when drilled for the plug threads this happens. I guess it may be on quite a few turbos.

This (my) turbo originated from a Begi-S kit.

I guess everything is ok, so we'll see...
Mine has the same hole. 1k miles and no problems so far. Turbo was about 3k old when I got it.
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Old 06-04-2008, 04:57 PM   #17
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So now I have clocked my turbo, bought some RUBBER fuel lines for running coolant to the turbo, bought shorter studs to connect the DP to the turbo(was having contact issues), painted the DP and manifold, welded in the O2 bung, and installed my Godspeed radiator.

The godspeed radiator was a lot more simple than I had imagined. I'm using stock fans and an FM 1" sway and everything looks good. The Godspeed is seriously twice the size of the stock one. I only needed to tweak a couple hole positions to get the fans on.

The reason I bought the rubber fuel lines for the coolant to turbo routing is because the fittings on my turbo, and the fittings on my SS lines did not match up. I am very new to this () and I really want to get this done with the least headache. I have fittings already on the turbo for rubber lines, so I'm keeping it simple.

I'll post some pics as soon as I take them tonight.

Also, are copper nuts for the mani-turbo/turbo-DP studs recommended over say SS?
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Old 06-04-2008, 05:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chapman View Post
Also, are copper nuts for the mani-turbo/turbo-DP studs recommended over say SS?
doesnt make much difference
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Old 06-04-2008, 07:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanSoot View Post
he drove it from my house with that mspnp

anyone recognizes my old manifold and intercooler?


ps: call me, i have some VERY good news for you
yup. was just saying to Jes "isn't that the setup we had from Urbansoot?"
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Old 07-14-2008, 06:49 PM   #20
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Well, I've been busy and getting a bit frustrated with this install... I have almost no time to work on it but I am now exhibiting gorilla fury strength or these bolts are pieces of ****.

I broke the bolt that my IC uses on the hood latch tightening it too much, and now I just broke THE MAIN GROUND BOLT while trying to install my LC-1.

****

What am I supposed to do? I really don't know the best way to fix this. Should I soulder them to the existing bolt? How do you even remove the rest of that bolt?

Help.
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