Cheap build, need opinions
#1
Cheap build, need opinions
ok to start out i knew nothing about turbos a month ago and nothing about miatas 3 months ago. i bought the the car and got it home and there was brand new turbo header in the trunk. i couldnt throw it away. so i found this websight and started reading and searching ebay. total build is less than $600. every thing from the internet somewhere. or i made it from stuff laying around shop. take a look at pics and if see something wrong please tell me, i havnt drove it yet, it is going to dyno in a couple days to get tuned. stock engine, 7psi,no intercooler, 12 to 1 fmu,
#4
there is no name on it, bought off ebay for $61. here the description from auction
This is a universal T4 turbo great for any 4 or 6 cyl bought but dont need my loss is your gain.
Inlet 3"
Outlet 2"
Bearing Wet Floating Bearings
Oil Inlet 1/8 NPT Oil Inlet
Flange Standard T3/T4 Flange
Swaps Great WHP on B Series Swaps
Working Pressure 5~30 PSI
Compressor .60 A/R Compressor
Turbine .63 A/R Turbine
Hot Side 2.5" v-band
Fits T3 and T3/T4 Manifolds
This is a universal T4 turbo great for any 4 or 6 cyl bought but dont need my loss is your gain.
Inlet 3"
Outlet 2"
Bearing Wet Floating Bearings
Oil Inlet 1/8 NPT Oil Inlet
Flange Standard T3/T4 Flange
Swaps Great WHP on B Series Swaps
Working Pressure 5~30 PSI
Compressor .60 A/R Compressor
Turbine .63 A/R Turbine
Hot Side 2.5" v-band
Fits T3 and T3/T4 Manifolds
#8
You'll need to brace that manifold to the engine block from the turbo flange. It will fail from all the load of the turbo and downpipe. Why did you build that funky (albeit well constructed) intermediate transition from the manifold turbo flange to the turbo flange? And saying it was to get the turbo to fit the DP is not the right answer. The last thing that mani needs is more weight on it.
ummm... does that dark photo show your oil return going below the bottom of the pan and back up to enter it? that won't work.
ummm... does that dark photo show your oil return going below the bottom of the pan and back up to enter it? that won't work.
#11
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I actually went back and re-read it and it said he hadn't driven it, but didn't say whether or not it's been run yet.
Originally Posted by FOURX4TRUX
i havnt drove it yet
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
ummm... does that dark photo show your oil return going below the bottom of the pan and back up to enter it? that won't work.
#14
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Damn, I even missed that the second time I read it, I suck.
The second picture the turbo is in and there is still no FPR, I don't feel bad about missing it though, not like the original post had the best format in the world anyway.
The second picture the turbo is in and there is still no FPR, I don't feel bad about missing it though, not like the original post had the best format in the world anyway.
#18
i plan hiding the hole with scoop or something. i have the ran the car, it seems to run and rev fine, but with no gauges on it i will wait to drive drive it. i assume it will be 7 psi because the guy i bought the turbo from says the waste gate is preset at that. i have no idea what it will actually boost. i did install a 255 lph fuel pump, and the fmu, turned the timing down. other than it is stock. the spacer under the turbo is for the dp, turbo was almost against firewall with that header, didnt know what else to do.
what do i do with the open egr line?
what do i do with the open egr line?
#19
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i plan hiding the hole with scoop or something. i have the ran the car, it seems to run and rev fine, but with no gauges on it i will wait to drive drive it. i assume it will be 7 psi because the guy i bought the turbo from says the waste gate is preset at that. i have no idea what it will actually boost. i did install a 255 lph fuel pump, and the fmu, turned the timing down. other than it is stock. the spacer under the turbo is for the dp, turbo was almost against firewall with that header, didnt know what else to do.
what do i do with the open egr line?
what do i do with the open egr line?
I would really advise investing in a wideband O2 sensor (LC1, AEM UEGO, etc..) and a boost gauge, wouldn't take someone's word as to what the wasegate pressure is.
#20
just cap the egr port, if you can build a spacer for your turbo you can build a cap for the egr port.
that turbo is too big for our cars, find yourself a smaller t3 on ebay and sell that one (my advice)
brace the **** out of that manifond, it will crack...over and over and over and over and over and over again!!!! you get the point
boost gauge and a wideband should be a must for you.
look around in the classified sections here, clubroadster.net, and miata.net, there is always something for sale.
get some colder spark plugs and a pcv from a 323 turbo car (oem mazda only, not the napa bullshit)
post a better pic of your oil drain line...can't really tell what it looks like
good luck
that turbo is too big for our cars, find yourself a smaller t3 on ebay and sell that one (my advice)
brace the **** out of that manifond, it will crack...over and over and over and over and over and over again!!!! you get the point
boost gauge and a wideband should be a must for you.
look around in the classified sections here, clubroadster.net, and miata.net, there is always something for sale.
get some colder spark plugs and a pcv from a 323 turbo car (oem mazda only, not the napa bullshit)
post a better pic of your oil drain line...can't really tell what it looks like
good luck