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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 08-30-2013, 01:06 PM   #1
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Default cheap turbo build

I know my idea is probably not the best, but for my application, it will do what I need and meet certain cost contraints. I am planning to rear mount an AR.80 that I got for free on my track car. Why would I be dumb enough to rear mount when there is so much room in the engine compartment? So I don't have to claim the value of a header, downpipe, intercooler, ect... Claim value you may ask, yes, this car will be running in the Chumpcar World Series, and 24 Hrs of lemons. Turbo will be mounted were muffler would normally go as I won't be using one. Plan to remote mount coolant and oil via washer fluid pumps and reserviors in the trunk. Intake pipe will run from trunk area through passenger compartment, out window, along top of fender, and in through headlight hole. I would love to put a fully programable megasquirt or similar in, but for cost sake, I am leaning towards a Bipes ACU (if I can find one for cheap) to do the basics I need. I only want to run 2-3psi as to prolong the inevitable boom under the hood after hours of WOT on the track. Any ideas, or critism? Anyone have a Bipes ACU laying around they want to part with for a decent price??
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:51 PM   #2
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DON'T JUST DON'T

A huge waste of time and effort. Plus you will never make it to the end of the race.

Good luck.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:15 PM   #3
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Not only will it not make it to the end of the race, but you're boarding on loosing acceleration and handling capabilities with the weight of the system you're suggesting vs. the power 2-3psi will produce.

Don't forget to add the fueling unit. A bipes only messes with timing. You're around 100lbs or more of equipment. Just concentrate on weight savings, get it down to 1900lbs without a driver, and you'll be getting somewhere.
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Not only will it not make it to the end of the race, but you're boarding on loosing acceleration and handling capabilities with the weight of the system you're suggesting vs. the power 2-3psi will produce.

Don't forget to add the fueling unit. A bipes only messes with timing. You're around 100lbs or more of equipment. Just concentrate on weight savings, get it down to 1900lbs without a driver, and you'll be getting somewhere.
Best advice is in bold.

The most important thing about the car for lemons/chump is that it is RELIABLE. After you have the car reliable you want to start removing weight to make the car faster. You are adding in a very unreliable component and added weight in the rear. That will only lead to failure in the end.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:53 PM   #5
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First, this is not the first race for the car. It has seen several already. Due to family and work, the only track I seem to be able to make it to is Road America because it is in my back yard. Problem is my little 1.6 doesn't stand a chance again v6 BMW's and the likes no matter how much it weighs. I'm not looking to boost the snot out of it, just give it a little extra giddy up out of the corner and down the straight. Last time I scaled it, the car was just under the 2000 lb mark. It is a 93 LE, so it has the sport (bilstien) suspension from the factory. The car handles awesome, but is lacking on gogo juice. That is were I was hoping to throw a little boost at it. Out of the 4 double 7 races run, we have only not finished (1) 7hr event and that was our first race when we blew a Autozone clutch out after 4 hours, and couldn't quite get a new one back in the car before the checker.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:01 PM   #6
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If you hack up a stock exhaust manifold to make a turbo manifold and just weld together enough pipe to get the outlet out of the hood how can that be an adder? You wouldn't even need to buy material except for a piece of 3"x4" x3/8" plate to make the turbo mount flange. Also you won't need an intercooler if you stay under 5-6 psi.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:02 PM   #7
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I've advanced the timing, shortened the intake, removed the cat and muffler, ground out the weld beads on the inside of the exhaust, upgraded to the 1.8 brakes, removed as much stuff as possible. I'm running out of ideas to get more gogo without swapping it. A friend gave me the turbo from a TGP which is a water-cooled Garrett T-25. The turbine ratio is 0.68:1, and the compressor ratio is 0.80:1. The maximum boost for this turbo from the factory is 8 pounds psi. figured small turbine should help to reduce lag although I know I would still have some.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:06 PM   #8
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Try shaving the head to up compression, taking a SERIOUS look at your weight, stick the filter out of the hood, and make sure you have a good, straight, free flowing exhaust.

You picked the Miata, I would either live with it's lameness on the straights or change cars. I really don't think a rear mounted turbo is the answer.

Look at chump build with the turbo sticking out of the hood. That would be a much better solution.

Edit: here ya go

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...r-25699/page2/
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:22 PM   #9
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I can tell you've really thought this through. Especially the part where plastic windshield washer pumps are going to be pumping 400*F oil out of a 1200*F turbo at 100% duty cycle for 7 + hours. Knock yourself out.

I personally would have thought of using an old power steering pump being belt driven off of a pulley mounted on the driveshaft to move the oil. The pump could be mounted to a bracket on the PPF. But I'm no genius. I'll leave the ingenuity to the experts.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:22 PM   #10
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The Frankenmiata...
Frankenmiata - Turbocharging > MotoIQ - Automotive Tech, Project Cars, Performance & Motorsports

That was some of my inspiration, but trying to not go quite as ghetto. although running the intake through the cockpit, and out the window contradicts that a bit.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:26 PM   #11
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I can tell you've really thought this through. Especially the part where plastic windshield washer pumps are going to be pumping 400*F oil out of a 1200*F turbo at 100% duty cycle for 7 + hours. Knock yourself out.

I personally would have thought of using an old power steering pump being belt driven off of a pulley mounted on the driveshaft to move the oil. The pump could be mounted to a bracket on the PPF. But I'm no genius. I'll leave the ingenuity to the experts.
The exhaust has 14 feet of "cooling" pipe before it would even get to the turbo.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:43 PM   #12
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Something like this would be easier and more effective than a rear mount?
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:45 PM   #13
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You asked for ideas and criticism, we gave them to you. Now you're trying to convince us it's a good idea. This won't happen (both the build and the convincing us part).

We've heard many times, but so far the above mentioned "ghetto" (I actually think they did a fabulous job) is the only build to of finished their turbo build and have anything to show for it.

Either build it or not, but don't come to us for ideas if you're not going to listen.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
You asked for ideas and criticism, we gave them to you. Now you're trying to convince us it's a good idea. This won't happen (both the build and the convincing us part).

We've heard many times, but so far the above mentioned "ghetto" (I actually think they did a fabulous job) is the only build to of finished their turbo build and have anything to show for it.

Either build it or not, but don't come to us for ideas if you're not going to listen.
They did do an awesome job on there turbo build, I am not doubting that. I've had this idea in my head for a while, and it is just taking me a bit to realize that it is probably not the best option.

Regardless, other than spending hundreds on a MS or similar, on the cheap, what if any are options other that a bipes ACU?
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:30 PM   #15
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What do you want the Bipes for, a turbo? Or are you trying to make a little more power N/A?

Your best bet would most likely be to build your own MS under the pricing regulations. MS-1 kits are still $157. Buy it, have someone build it for you for free, and then remove the biggest restriction, the AFM.

Do this, get to a dyno, fine tune your AFR, find MBT, go one degree below, and profit.

We did this with our local rat miata with the filter sticking out the hood and netted 115hp. Very respectable for a tired 1.6, and with SM take offs, we're doing some very impressive lap times.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:42 PM   #16
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How about a 1.8l?
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Old 08-31-2013, 05:01 AM   #17
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This thread....Not only he wants to run a rear mount but also bipes and other bandaids.. amazing you made it this far in your life. While u're at it why not use vice grips to squeeze the fuel line?


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