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Old 09-08-2008, 12:49 PM   #21
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its an endurance race....IC would be a very good idea and there are plenty of stock IC that would work ok and for CHEAP from places like pull a part.
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Old 09-08-2008, 01:25 PM   #22
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We've got an IC from a Ford Probe. It was so cheap it was practically free.

We'll keep boost at the wastegate actuator setting (no EBC), about 5-7 psi. Fuel will be 91 octane CA crap.

I hadn't thought of using an MS. That's intruiging. I'm not sure how much time I want to spend calibrating cold start, hot re-start, part-throttle stuff etc but would you guys be willing to share a rock solid base calibration that I could use as a starting point? That would help.

Pics of this weekend's progress:

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Old 09-08-2008, 03:10 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKav View Post
I hadn't thought of using an MS. That's intruiging. I'm not sure how much time I want to spend calibrating cold start, hot re-start, part-throttle stuff etc
Running it in parallel is just the ticket for you. Would solve all (ok, most) of those headaches.
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Old 09-08-2008, 05:27 PM   #24
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That car looks AWESOME without the nose on it.

Looks like the car is going to be very cool. I can't wait to see how it turns out!
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:13 PM   #25
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what I'd do given that low boost to deal with the cold start is put a switch on the dash that allows you to start on the stock ECU (w/ 305cc injectors maybe), then once it's warmed up you can swap over to the MS just be flipping the switch while it's running.
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:43 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkmage View Post
what I'd do given that low boost to deal with the cold start is put a switch on the dash that allows you to start on the stock ECU (w/ 305cc injectors maybe), then once it's warmed up you can swap over to the MS just be flipping the switch while it's running.
Noooooooo!

If you're going to go MS, then do it right. 305cc injectors aren't enough to deal with any meaningful level of boost absent an AFPR.

Stick with 440-550cc injectors, 89-92 non turbo RX-7 parts can be had for a reasonable price and are direct plug-n-play both electrically and mechanically. You can run parallel if you want, but frankly I think it'd be easier to go full standalone. You won't be running A/C, and idle is truly not that hard to get right. There are enough of us running MS on various configurations that someone will have a fuel table that'll get you started and idling, and be close enough to drive around on. You'll want to either use a WBO2 and do some autotuning or plan on a full afternoons' dyno time to get the table perfected, but it's not hard.
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:59 PM   #27
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Big injectors, tuning, WBO2... we can do all that, they're non-issues.

Looking over Braineack's MS thread I'd say the biggest hurdle is time since I'm completely ignorant of MS. Learning it, building it will be a challenge. Am I right that it there are some additional costs bits and bobs besides the MS1 itself?
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Old 09-09-2008, 03:00 PM   #28
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there is also the "other option" that nobody has played with before... run two sets of injectors. run the stockers low mount in stock position and mount a larger set (305cc for example) in the intake runners above them. Let the stock ecu run the out of boost and just run the MS injectors in boost. eliminates drivability and cold start concerns.

There will be other things to buy to go with the MS, however you can put a fuel pump switch on the dash to eliminate the AFM and sell it... the sensors you can get at a salvage yard for a few dollars, and the wiring you can salvage from the stock harness function you don't need (cruise, PW, PL, etc).

*edit* 305cc injectors in this case could support the limits of the stock engine since you will also have the factory injectors in-line as well
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Old 09-23-2008, 02:43 PM   #29
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Here's how to do a turbo manifold on the cheap--use the stock one.

First make a few stud clearances on the flange...

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Then make an adapter elbow using the manifold's stock mating flange, a piece of another car's exhaust, and an ugly T3 inlet flange...

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...and presto! Instant ghettocharging. Hood removal is optional but recommended:

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Turns out the best way to work on the underside of a car is just to flip it on its side. Way easier to do than you might think:

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Old 09-23-2008, 02:47 PM   #30
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Are yo going to make a kit with that manifold to sell? I'd be in line for one.
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:36 PM   #31
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i want to see intercooler piping on that bitch!
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Old 09-23-2008, 08:00 PM   #32
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OMG this thread is full of WIN!
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Old 09-23-2008, 08:06 PM   #33
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How much will mounting the turbo like that affect driver visibility?
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Old 09-23-2008, 08:27 PM   #34
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WIN WIN WIN!!! This is awesome. I say run a lmore boost, say 12 or so.

Probably useless info now, but a 95-97 Kia header is similar to a miata header (car has same engine), but the header doesn't point backwards, or in your case, now forward. It would just point straight down, or straight up if you flipped it over. I used one on my miata and cut it at the collector and welded a 3" pipe to it. Cheap header.

You might wanna check your tire pressure, I think it's leaning a little...
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Old 09-24-2008, 12:45 AM
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Old 09-24-2008, 09:53 AM   #35
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This build ftw!
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Old 09-24-2008, 01:23 PM   #36
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Nice. Should keep turbo cooler too ..lol

I use a brace on that thing to, thats a lot of weight to have suspended by the header bolts.
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Old 09-24-2008, 01:58 PM   #37
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haha AWESOME! keep the pics comeing..
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Old 09-24-2008, 06:49 PM   #38
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With the amount of "bumping" that goes on in the Lemons races are you not worried about that turbo flying off and coming through your windshield? You must really trust your welding skills if you do. Looks like fun though, keep at it!
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Old 09-24-2008, 07:20 PM   #39
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This beats turbo dodge cheapness...
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Old 09-24-2008, 08:24 PM   #40
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Sweet, it doesn't even need a downpipe or exhaust system. This is the ultimate in low back pressure.
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