x_25

Tired of the same questions, so gonna make a thread I can point noobs to. Let me know if I get anything wrong.

Follow the instructions in this thread for installation order. 6 Steps to not blow your sh** up.

Also go download and read the FM kit install instructions for drilling the oil pan and all that junk.

Speeduino ECU:$275ish after shipping
Wideband O2 sensor: $170ish (I like the AEM UEGO)
Flow Force 380cc injectors: $240
Clutch, ACT or FM (will the Supermiata sport clutches hold 200hp?): $400ish
Ebay cast manifold T3 or T25: $130
Oil lines from local shop or ebay: $50 (get ones that match your turbo)
T3 or T25 turbo. Used OEM of some sort: $200
Ebay bar and plate intercooler: $80
Intercooler tubing and couplers: $150
Exhaust shop fab downpipe to whatever shitty exhaust you have: $400ish

Figure another $200 in misc crap.

Total: $~$2300

Having a car that runs reasonbly and won't blow up every 500mi: Priceless.

For everything else, theres Google. Use "site:miataturbo.net (enter seach term here)“ to search.

andym

I would suggest for turbo application to go with injectors that are larger than 380cc. According to this online calculator, not exceeding a 80% duty cycle, the max that 380cc injectors will do is 232crank hp which is ballpark 200 whp. I think even a 1.6 with a t25 and 2.5 inch exhaust is around 190whp.
https://www.deatschwerks.com/fuel-ca...tor-calculator

x_25

200hp is a fine basic turbo install. Like I said, cheap and OKish, not powerful.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

give them an inch....How a noob will read this:


Speeduino ECU:$275ish after shipping I will I will just use the AFM, i saw people on facebook do it just fine.
Wideband O2 sensor: $170ish (I like the AEM UEGO) Speeduino has a good basemap, youtube says i only need wideband for dyno.
Flow Force 380cc injectors: $240 ebay RX7 injectors on EBAY seem good AND cheap!
Clutch, ACT or FM (will the Supermiata sport clutches hold 200hp?): $400ish mine is fine for now, I dont want that much boost anyway.
Ebay cast manifold T3 or T25: $130
Oil lines from local shop or ebay: $50 (get ones that match your turbo)
T3 or T25 turbo. Used OEM of some sort: $200
Ebay bar and plate intercooler: $80 I will just get the EBAY turbo kit and just use the good stuff from it.
Intercooler tubing and couplers: $150
Exhaust shop fab downpipe to whatever shitty exhaust you have: $400ish

Figure another $200 in misc crap.

Total: $~$2300 I cant spend 2300 on a turbo, Im broke, in school and watch the passion channel greg guy.

Having a car that runs reasonbly and won't blow up every 500mi: Priceless. I dont care if it blows up, it will be a leaning experience.

x_25

Ain't that just the truth though? But, there will be a few who will listen. This is for them.

And they can run the stock clutch till it slips. It's anoying, but not the end of the world. Just means they are pulling the trans after getting everything installed and hopefully learned a lesson.

festersays

iTrader: (3)

Following the cheap/decent/reliable ideology you might add the TSE oil tee, NXS manual boost controller (have read positive things from people here) and a Bosch BOV.
I just finished a budget style build and used this oil line, perfect if you're going from the oil pressure sender. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551867

x_25

Totally forgot about the BOV. And that's a good idea on the oil lines.

I run an NXS boost controller currently, works well. But really, this setup should probably be run at wastegate pressure if they are going this cheep.

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

Do you mean "Ebay 6 puck stage 20 for $100 clutch special"? You'd be surprised at how many advocate ebay -insert stage here- clutch for all the boost.

I reccomend the oem audi bosch bov that you can find on ebay for $25.

x_25

Looks like you can get an Ebay T3 50 Trim 0.48 A/R churbo with oil lines for under $200. That's the "correct" T3 for a miata, yes? I never looked much into churbos since I prefer used OEM ones.


Curbo like this one?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Literally zero point to saving $20 on injectors and then being limited to 200hp.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

You're just a hater bro!

x_25

What can you get that's only $20 more? The FF 640cc are $80 more. Like I said, cheap, basic, and okayish. If you go down that slope next thing you know it's a $4k turbo setup (which is about what a good setup costs).

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

You can get KA Injection GT500s PNP for $200. So actually... sounds like cheaper than the 380s. Which are plain and simple, not big enough.

x_25

Link? Didn't know about those. But sounds like they swiped flowforce's stuff and are trying to undersell. Are they tested and flow matched like the FF ones?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Weird logic jump to make... Swiped? Nice. Protip: GT500s are made by you know... Bosch, for Ford. The adapter pigtails are made by UScar. The rail spacers and caps can either be made or sourced. There's nothing proprietary about FF stuff other than the matched-across-a-few-points-which-isn't-the-same-kind-of-flowmatching-someone-like-ID-does.

Which if that's worth $100 to you, that's 100% fine. They're still good value and it feels great to support your own.

But in the context of the cheap-but-not-awful setup that you created this entire thread about.... flow matching across a couple points is absolutely not necessary.

x_25

All the stuff is available, FF was who figured it out here though. But yeah, for a cheap build, they sound the way to go. I did the BYOI flow force kit though and my injectors idle like crap cause I lost the diceroll on the low pulsewidth flow matching.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

There's more than one platform that uses BPs, and more than one person across the world developing parts-bin-engineered parts for them.

x_25

Fairnuff!

KevinK121

"A LEANING EXPERIENCE"....

HA!

x_25

Leaning against the car on the side of the road? Waiting for a tow?