Mturbo

So every time my brother calls me, he starts by telling me that my Miata died on the road. I'm in the Marines so he calls 2 or 3 times a week and every time the same ol story. Hes going to change the fluid, spark plugs and wires, but if thats not what it needs... then whats next? he said the boost spiked up to almost 20 lbs once (according to the random boost gauge) any thoughts?

All this info came from the seller, i just got it this month.

This is 1996 mazda miata m edition it has the 1.8l 4cyc, 5 speed tras, limited slip rear diff
It has a custom top mount turbo kit
header is custom made for the Td05 14b and evo3 housing runs to a 2.5in down pipe to a 3in straight pipe
front mount intercooler and 450cc injectors
all this is controlled by AeM Fic piggy back, laptop tuned and innvative wide band o2
it has aluminium radaitor and coolant reroute 160f thermastate to ensure it can hold up in 100f temps
adj dual stage boot controller set at 9psi street and 15psi strip flip of switch
adj fuel pressure reg

soviet

iTrader: (10)

That setup is ghetto as ----. Why the hell are his coil packs randomly sitting there? What on earth?

All his problems are probably due to the ****-poor bandaid engine engine management. Tell him to man up and get a standalone ECU.

flounder

The more I stare at it, the more I scratch my head.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

I must admit, that oil feed is impressive in a ghetto sort of way.

curly

iTrader: (25)

At least he has a reroute. I think.

I'm hesitant to say it, but it looks like you need to add one more noodle in the cluster ---- pasta dish that is your engine bay. That hose needs to go from your cold side intercooler pipe to the idle valve below the throttle body.

jbrown7815

iTrader: (1)

Mturbo

So aside from the cold side to the idler and the razz about how ghetto my set up is, anyone else have any ideas for the car?

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I already told you what's wrong, but since you can't read, I highlighted your pieces of ***** issue items.

Get a standalone and a manual boost controller off ebay. Profit.

Mturbo

I'm not unable to read, I am just new to the turbo scene so i am trying to figure it out. Thanks for the help though. You made some good points though i will work on it.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

It could be half a dozen things, all of which are related to the "razz" you've already gotten. It could be a loose connection in the exposed wire nuts that are apparently holding the injector wiring together. It could be a loose coil pack connection from the coil packs that are free-balling in the engine bay. It could be major engine damage from the (possibly) garbage tune or the (probably) excessive boost. It could be that the engine was blown before you got the car.

Here's my advice:
1. Tell your brother to get his own goddamn car
2. Once you get home, check the AFRs at full boost to ensure they are safe (11.8:1 or richer at full boost, anyone who says otherwise blows up engines for a living)
3. Go through the car and fix the ghetto. Clean up the injector/coil wiring, get a standalone system, and get a decent tune on the car.

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

Any chance you (he) would just return it to stock and start over with the right stuff? I'm thinking a Begi kit, it'd be relatively cheap and probably much much more reliable then your current setup.
I'd be scared to let my brother drive my car, let alone fix any problems it may have, he's 3rd phase at PI right now btw.

EDIT:
Here is the kit I'm thinking of http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=395

soviet

iTrader: (10)

wait, is that radiator even mounted to anything?

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

....Where the hell is the front of the car

You've got your work cut out for you dude.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Wait, is that a zip tie on your compressor to hold your wastegate?

IHI

I like the fancy oil line to the turbo.
No need to start all over, but re-do all the "done" jobs.
Also learn to do troubleshooting.
1. Car stalls.
2. Check for spark.
3. Check for injection pulse.
4. check if pump is running when crancking.
5. Check fuel pressure.
6. Check if the engine is getting air.
If all there, engine should run. If not, check ignition timing.
If the engine got to much fuel, get new plugs in. Engine won't run on wet spark plugs.

Problems must be in the wiring. Look at the state of those "joints". They are designed for indoor Solid coper wires. Not for automotive use. You might be lucky. If just one injector (partly) fails you will blow a hole in the piston.
Redo the wiring (in a proper way) and get a decent MS2 + wideband. Get it tuned, or learn how to yourself.

Be carefull. The turbo act as a oxygen pump. Oxygen speeds up distruction is a very impressive way.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

What an awful car, lol.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Don't waste money on fluid/spark plugs/wires/etc..

SELL.

Get a stock miata.
Save up and modify it correctly.
Profit.

Someone who knows quite a bit more about miatas then I'm guessing you do will have a horrible time sorting that out. There is a lot wrong and that is just from 1 picture of the engine.

kaboshe

iTrader: (15)

OMG, how could it possibly go wrong

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I am amazed at how terrible some of these "projects" are, and yet they're still selling and people are still buying. Holy s***
I hope you paid no more than about 500 bux for that car

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

See how you're MAF is so close to the compressor inlet? Yeah that can make it a bitch to drive. I know because a) I read it on here and b) I did it myself just for a second. I don't know everything behind it. But I believe the air is turbulent there and can mess up the readings. Leading it to run very rough/stall when you come to a stop. You probably won't noticed it as you're driving, just coming to a stop.