blaen99

iTrader: (6)

This is exactly what my wiring guy told me. Butt connectors are supposed to be superior to solder in a vibration-heavy environment, hands down, but only if you do everything right.

Thing is, most people don't do everything right (including me, sadly) so they get an unnecessary bad reputation.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Cheeseball Harbor Freight shielded butt splices != good barrel connectors and heat shrink. Period.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

I'm blatantly threadjacking. Would you guys that crimp be willing to recommend good connectors? Do you recommend connectors that use that...integrated heat shrink stuff? How do you size connectors properly? Would you be willing to give some dos and don'ts?

I can only offer props, but I would love to learn as much as I can about doing it right.

Mturbo

+1 in regards to EVERYTHING haha.

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

You mean something like these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/merchan...-14-67521.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/merchan...ack-66793.html

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

This is exactly correct. And, whenever I have a termination (ring terminal, spade terminal, etc.), a high quality crimp connector crimped with ratchet-type crimpers is what I use. I still prefer to join two wires by twist, solder and heat shrink, although I don't have a problem with a high quality butt connector crimped with a proper crimper. Unfortunately, on cars, I usually only see the autozone crud.

I also like to use the MIL-STD Tefzel wire for heat, corrosion and abrasion resistance. I guess I've spent too much time around aircraft. But, after all, aren't we making these Miatas fly?

Given that few will invest in quality crimping supplies and tools, I feel more comfortable recommending solder and heat shrink for repairing wires. Gives decent performance with little up front cost.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Wire:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/el/wire.html

Butt Splices:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lonsplices.php
or
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...dmo4363884.php

Ring Terminals:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...insulterms.php

Spade Terminals:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pidg.php

Crimp Tool:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lcrimptool.php

Mturbo

I think I'm going to have my younger Bro go up and get help from vehicular so as to get the rig ready to drive, then when i get back to the states i will take it from there. i got big plans for this car. But i would be more comfortable starting from at least a safe car to drive.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I'm going to be sticking with soldering. I greatly appreciate this but the cost involved to crimp properly compared to solder is insane. If I have to choose between FM rails and crimping, I'll take the frame rails!

But seriously, thank you! It is much appreciated, props for you bro!

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Here's a site with some good info:

http://terminaltown.com/Pages/Page207.html

They also sell a quality ratchet crimper and terminal kits for quite a bit less than Aircraft Spruce. Lots of tutorials too.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

On a related note, what are your recommendations for heat shrink, sizing, etc.? How about for wire conduit?

I'm going to have to make a big heat shrink order shortly because I can't find any adhesive shrink wrap locally, plus I'd really prefer to get conduit in the same order, so I'd love to hear more recommendations, and it does tie into the crimping!

curly

iTrader: (25)

The accordion black plastic cover is crap, just wrap it in duct tape. For heat shrink buy a $10 variety box, and put the smallest size over the finished wire. I use a lighter; it leaves a little brown mark on the heat shrink but is a lot faster than holding your soldering iron under it forever. Could probably use a hair dryer too, but that's a lot bulkier and clumsier.

IHI

You can solder a wire to a wire. It won't let you down.
But NEVER solder a connector to a wire. It will rip off in little time.
Also, use solder with flux inside. Do not use products like S39. They will corrode all metal parts and they will just rot away.
And yes: no soldering alowed in aircrafts. It is a safety thing. Soldered joints can let go under vibrations. A good crimp is better, but only if made watertight.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

It will still break at the solder spot.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I was poking around Harbor Freight's site and came across this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/ratchet...ool-97420.html

This looks exactly like the crimper I use. And it's only $12 and got some great reviews by guys that use it for a living. For $12, it's certainly worth a shot. I sure paid a lot more than that for mine.

Harbor Freight is hit and miss, but sometimes you get lucky with them.

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

yea its a hit and miss sometimes but the tools usually carry a lifetime warranty, and if it breaks your out like 20$

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Get back on track guys...personally i think the OPs car dies because hes missing the vice grips on the fuel line fuel control method.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

So, how are we off track? I'll bet those HF ratchet crimpers could also be used as fuel line vice grips. C'mon man!

Mturbo

I think he is right, if you use multiple rubber bands and some hockey tape you could do just as good a job as any ol vice grips would do. Just my 2 pennies.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

a $10 heat gun works about a million times better than a lighter. and it has a ton of other uses. one of my most favorite tools.
I used to use a lighter for heat shrink, but frankly, it gets old. And forget about using a lighter in awkward, tight spots (think wiring harness).

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-wa...112-96289.html