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Old 07-23-2008, 03:10 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zabac View Post
What do you think about this ?

Wonder if we can get some dimensions...I'll find out.
Another groupbuy? lol

Edit: Dude I talked to is a total tool, says "the dimensions is 1 inch thick and has two holes"
That spacer is for a chevy small/big block, so if anyone knows the dimensions please post them up.
I don't have time for that ****. I ordered the spacer, now I just need to get some 90* hoses, a barb, and someone to weld it.

What size barb do I need? I'd look myself, but I'm a few hundred miles away to check.
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Old 07-23-2008, 03:25 PM   #42
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are you sure that's the right one? I thought it was $50.
As sure as a guy who has never actually ordered (much less seen) one can be

Here's some more wizdom from teh (dot) nets you can agonize over.

I have also read you'll need to:
- machine a groove for the T-stat
- drill/tap/weld ports for temp sensor and heater
- massage the bolts holes because they're a little off
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Old 07-23-2008, 03:43 PM   #43
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Is there not a tstat recess in the BP/B6 head already? I thought there was from the fwd applications. Using the bowl type mixer in the photo would eliminate the need for anything more if the ports were used/modded as discussed.
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Old 07-23-2008, 03:56 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Is there not a tstat recess in the BP/B6 head already? I thought there was from the fwd applications. Using the bowl type mixer in the photo would eliminate the need for anything more if the ports were used/modded as discussed.
that would be pretty baller. I'm going to use the one from my 99 motor though. Any thoughts?
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Old 07-23-2008, 06:01 PM   #45
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I'd go with the coolant cap/mixer in the photo I posted IF the head does have a tstat recess in it. What is that from - 99 front? I'd cut about an inch off the end and take the piece to the parts store, browse through the rad hoses in the back and find one that goes 90* under the coil pack and then 45* rotation 90* bend towards the front of the car. Use a coat hanger as a center line to mock up your bends. I've done that for a couple of rad hoses and heater hoses and found stuff that would work every time. Then you'd just need to get the coolant sensor in that bung and address the heater feed. I wouldn't bother with a 90* fitting for the heater feed either. Look for a hose with a 90* in it and enough length to get the core at the firewall.

Last edited by m2cupcar; 07-23-2008 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:06 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Is there not a tstat recess in the BP/B6 head already? I thought there was from the fwd applications. Using the bowl type mixer in the photo would eliminate the need for anything more if the ports were used/modded as discussed.

Yes, there should be a recess in the head for the thermostat. I missed the mods you are referring to. Most people use the spacer to move the thermostat out of the head allowing access to pre-thermostat water for the temp sensor and heater port.

If you are going to tap everything directly off the head you don't need the spacer.
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:32 PM   #47
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do you have any idea how big the bore is on the proposed heater lead? I might have to chop off that nipple to be sure I get enough hose clamp contact. Is there any chance that the bore is too small to adequately supply the heater?
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:33 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by MazDilla View Post
If you are going to tap everything directly off the head you don't need the spacer.
this is what usually happens when I buy something.
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Old 07-23-2008, 08:20 PM   #49
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You may still want to use the spacer to give you some clearance for your hoses.
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Old 07-23-2008, 08:52 PM   #50
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If it's the same wall thickness as the heater return pipe, it's fine. It looks to be the same OD from the pics. I'd cut the end off with a hack saw and see what it looks like. Worst case you pull it out of the head and then tap the hole for an NPT pipe nipple. That'll give you a sufficient ID for flow and good OD to fit the hose. I'm using some NPT pipe on my modded cam cover now for the same features.
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Old 07-23-2008, 10:03 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MazDilla View Post
You may still want to use the spacer to give you some clearance for your hoses.
I could, but look at the pics, I don't think I'll need it.
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Old 07-24-2008, 01:46 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Is there not a tstat recess in the BP/B6 head already?
On mine there was.

I used the right angle nipple on the pax side and a j-shaped hose to get coolant over to the turbo. Where is everyone sourcing the turbo coolant from?
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:18 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
but you can't put the temp sensor on the radiator side of the t-stat, it has to be on the engine side or you're going to have huge temp differentials from the engine to the sensor in the winter.
Sorry, I basically copied BBundy's re-route -- copying the original 323 GTX setup. I've used the blocked off port on the intake manifold (dremel out the block off, weld a plate between the bottom of runners 3&4, and add a hose fitting to direct coolant to the heater):



You can see the blue female AN- fitting that does a vertical 90* in the 3rd pic below.

I have a temp sensor in this line/circuit to send to the TEC3, so it always knows what temp the coolant coming out of the back of the head is (even with the T-stat closed):



There is also a temp sensor inline with the large diameter hose going from the back of the head to the radiator has BEGi's in-line port. This is the one that controls the fan. The fan would never need to be activated while the engine is just warming up and coolant is not going to the rad, so it should be fine to be here:





Anyone see anything wrong with this setup?

Last edited by mcsinc; 07-24-2008 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:28 AM   #54
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(double post) -- mods can you remove this?

Last edited by mcsinc; 07-24-2008 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:33 AM   #55
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Sorry, I have a re-route that uses the blocked off port on the intake manifold (dremel out the block off, weld a plate between the bottom of runners 3&4, and add a hose fitting to direct coolant to the heater:



You can see the blue female AN- fitting that does a vertical 90* in the 3rd pic below.

I have a temp sensor in this line/circuit to send to the TEC3, so it always knows what temp the coolant coming out of the back of the head is (even with the T-stat closed):



There is also a temp sensor inline with the large diameter hose going from the back of the head to the radiator has BEGi's in-line port. This is the one that controls the fan. The fan would never need to be activated while the engine is just warming up and coolant is not going to the rad, so it should be fine to be here:




Anyone see anything wrong with this setup? I basically copied someone else's route that looked at how the original 323 GTX setup worked and mocked up the routing of that system. Can't remember his name right now.
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Old 07-30-2008, 10:19 AM   #56
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msc- you're reroute looks complete and functional to me

hustler- you could use your begi piece then just take an OE housing like one in the pic below, chop off the flanged end and put it inline on the way from the back of the head to the rad. You could use it as the ~90* to come around the corner from the back of the head. Just plug or use the ports pre tstat... I'm sure somebody has done this.

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Old 07-30-2008, 11:20 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
The part you refer to is simply a plug. I have no idea if its thread size and pitch match any of the senders.
I searched here for information on that plug once I noticed it was there. I would like to add a sending unit for an add-on coolant gauge. FWIW I did have it located on the reroute hose between the heater core and the tee into the radiator hose and it always read much cooler than the stock gauge. Installing the sending unit where that plug is would essentially co-locate it with the stock gauge.



OK so if anyone knows what the thread type is for that 99503 plug in the diagram above, speak up
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Old 07-30-2008, 11:44 AM   #58
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That cooler temp makes sense. Did it rise to a normal temp when you turned the heater on?
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Old 08-09-2008, 04:30 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
I would like to add a sending unit for an add-on coolant gauge.

OK so if anyone knows what the thread type is for that 99503 plug in the diagram above, speak up
What is the thread on your sending unit? If it's not metric, there's not much point worrying about the plug.

Isn't the problem with putting a temp sensor in the 99503 location is that it will only sense the temp after the thermostat (ie: when the thermostat is open? Hard to tell from that diagram, and it's been awhile since I looked at the back of the head.
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Old 08-09-2008, 04:37 AM   #60
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Hustler: did you figure out your main routing out the back of the head? The 1.6 cap fits perfectly and points to the i/t manifold side, horizontally (3:00 position, direction). Not sure why more people aren't just using one of these instead of chopping and welding the 1.8 cap ??
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