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Old 01-26-2008, 11:39 PM   #1
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Default Coolant supply options.

What kind of thread is on the coolant ports, I am looking for options other then banjo bolts to get coolant in and out of the turbo.

Maybe a 90 degree with a barb, if there is such a thing? I doubt a straight barb will clear the manifold.
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Old 01-26-2008, 11:52 PM   #2
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anplumbing.com
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Old 01-27-2008, 12:22 AM   #3
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What size is that?
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Old 01-27-2008, 12:32 AM   #4
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:06 AM   #5
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So the banjo bolts are M14 x 1.5 pitch.

I was thinking of getting two of these.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-FTG1
and some 90 degree -6an -> 3/8 barbs if such a thing exists or just a -6 to -6 90 degree adapater and a -6an to 3/8 barb.

Last edited by Saml01; 01-27-2008 at 02:23 AM.
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:12 AM   #6
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Sorry to threadjack, but is the only reason to upgrade these is for clearance reasons? I was hoping I could use what came on the turbo:

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Old 01-27-2008, 04:15 AM   #7
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Kenzo, for the outside you are fine, but on the inside the issue is that the water line goes straight into the manifold. Your turbo isn't clocked right in that photo; the oil drain needs to point down, and once you do that you'll see that the inner coolant barb will need to be changed.
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:57 AM   #8
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^ Savington, you're saying even with what I outlined in my last post, I may still hit the manifold with the fittings?
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Old 01-27-2008, 12:15 PM   #9
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Another consideration is the heat-transfer properties of aluminum vs. brass. I'm pretty sure that brass is a better conductor of heat. The CHRA gets pretty ******* hot... transferring the heat through your barb and into the hose. Typical coolant hoses aren't designed for that kind of heat. I've never heard of hose melting to a barb... if that's how I did it, I'd probably replace those hoses every year or so for preventative maint.
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Old 01-27-2008, 12:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
anplumbing.com
Thanks for that site, the stuff on there is way cheaper than I've found before.
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Old 01-27-2008, 01:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
Another consideration is the heat-transfer properties of aluminum vs. brass. I'm pretty sure that brass is a better conductor of heat. The CHRA gets pretty ******* hot... transferring the heat through your barb and into the hose. Typical coolant hoses aren't designed for that kind of heat. I've never heard of hose melting to a barb... if that's how I did it, I'd probably replace those hoses every year or so for preventative maint.
I doubt its gonna get hot enough to melt rubber, but I am also planning to use the same type of hose for the coolant as the oil drain.
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:45 PM   #12
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I have SS water lines and have these gold things at the end with a 2 inch rubber line that goes from the gold thing to the water pump's nipples.
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Old 01-27-2008, 05:08 PM   #13
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I am advising to not try silicone hoses there but make high pressure stainless steel water lines (like the brakes).You will pay for one and last time
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Old 01-27-2008, 05:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
I doubt its gonna get hot enough to melt rubber, but I am also planning to use the same type of hose for the coolant as the oil drain.
Turbine housings get hot enough to glow red, the chra and fittings for coolant are what.. 1" away at most. It gets hot enough.
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