zarish

iTrader: (2)

I just got my car turbo'd and now the cooling fan is not running. The guys that did my turbo install took off the A/c fan and only left one radiator fan. The fan ran fine before the turbo install, but I now it will not run at all. I am wondering if he wired it wrong when he took the other fan out??? I use to be able to just turn the key to on position and the fan use to turn on if the car was hot, but now it won't do that either? Not sure what to check for. I will also be removing the MAF and putting back the second fan in, then run it in parallel. Does anyone know how it can be done with MSPNP by tapping the harness instead of the fan wires.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I have sworn myself never to cut another stock ECU harness unless it's the only god-damn way... and to avoid at all costs cutting wires anywhere under the dash.

The fan on the PASSENGER side is the primary radiator fan. Make sure they removed the right one. There is only one small electrical connector for the AC fan. Simply unplugging it will have no effect on the primary fan.

The dual-fan mod is one of the oldest in the book. Do it like it's been done 806,359 times before. Cut/splice the wires at the fan so the AC fan will come on whenever the primary fan does. I've never heard of a fried relay, the stock one for the primary fan can handle the electrical load for both fans. There is plenty of room to work and you can make the whole thing look very clean.
Here's how to do it:
http://www.miata.net/garage/parallel_fan.html
or
http://www.miata.net/hakuna/parallel...%20wiring.html

If you still have the dash-switch for AC installed, simply hitting it will turn the fan on (I THINK)... you could just leave it in all the time and the AC fan would run full-time.

zarish

iTrader: (2)

The fan they removed is the driver's side fan, the passenger side is still connected. The damn fan worked fine before the turbo setup. Now it is not turning on at all. I am not sure what went wrong.

91NApeewee

I am pretty sure the DRIVER side is the primary fan.

edit:

confirmed

so if they removed the driver side, the eliminated your cooling fan and not the AC fan.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

The driver's side fan is the main cooling fan. The pass side fan is the A/C condenser fan. You'd need to turn your A/C on to get the fan to work now. You can always do that, plus run the heater, as a temp stop gap measure.

If there's no longer room for the bulky oem cooling fan, jump on ebay and/or your favorite web store and pick up a large single fan. SPAL is probably the most popular one for miatas. Aftermarket fans are typically slimmer than the oem fan, so you might be able to sneak it in with the oem condenser fan in place, or you might need to remove the condenser fan and run a single big fan in the center of the rad.

MSPNP has full control of the cooling fan. Search for a post I made that shows how I run the main fan off the MS and the condenser fan off the A/C system AND/OR the thermoswitch by adding a SPDT relay.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

You can also short them at the boomslang right at the ECU.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

They removed the primary fan. Not cool.

(pun intended)

Ok, here's a good, quick fix that will also get you parallel fan operation once you get the primary fan back in.

At the ECU, locate the Red/Green wire at 1R. This is the wire which turns on the cooling fan relay when CLT is overtemp. Locate the Blue/White wire at 1I, this is the wire which turns on the condenser fan relay when the A/C is on.

Splice these two wires together.

That's it. When the ECU tries to turn on the cooling fan relay, it will also turn on the condenser fan relay.


On a lighter note- did the shop inform you that they were going to sabotage your cooling system, or did they just hope you wouldn't notice?

zarish

iTrader: (2)

Ok so it makes sense now. I didn't have it done at a shop. I know some guys who work for a shop and do stuff like this on the side. They didn't tell me about removing the fan till afterwards. The reason they removed the fan was, because they couldn't fit the air intake filter due to using the MAF. I will be removing the MAF so then will be able to put the fan back on the car. Thank you guys for all the help. I will try to fix it all today and let you know what happens.

Oh and yeah I almost got killed last night. It was raining and I have stock tires pretty worn out. I took the car for a drive so I can log some data and get it decently tuned before going to the dyno. I was in second and tried accelerating but right about 3500rpm the damn car went nuts and spun out like crazy and I could not control it all. All I know is the car spun 360 degrees a few times till I ended up on the other side of the road in on coming traffic. Luckly no one else was on the road. I was able to gain control of it before the car hit the curve otherwise I knew it would have flipped and killed me. I have no roll bar yet. Need to get tires ASAP.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

what a great shop...

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

I like DIY not LTDI (let them do it). Well unless you absolutely aren't capable of doing it yourself which i kinda doubt. Well the good news is that your car is finally turbo and your still alive (why would you be making pulls in the rain).

zarish

iTrader: (2)

I can do the work myself and more than capable, but I messed my back a few years ago and can't do much work anymore. I still do whatever I can but then my back goes out and hurts for weeks. I just spent the whole weekend fixing all their *** ups. I got both fans back in and working, MAF removed, re did intake work and put a catch can in.

Wasn't really trying to make pulls in the rain, but not used to this car with the turbo. I didn't think it will spin out the way it did. Is it normal to see the rear wheels kick out on the miata's? I know I have stock tires and with better and wider tires this should not happen??

The_Pipefather

iTrader: (5)

On stock power I can go sideways if I get too aggressive on the throttle and steering. Only when its raining though. Even though I have decent tires for that sort of thing.