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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 01:16 PM
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Default Cooling System question

dumb question do the reroute

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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 02:08 PM
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Dude. Cooling is one of the most extensively covered topics on this forum. If you ask questions like this instead of searching, your cat credit score is going​ to go down the ******* really fast.

​​​​​​here's a recommended read:
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/

Last edited by wackbards; Apr 6, 2017 at 03:00 PM. Reason: linked to beginning of Most Glorious Thread instead of end of Most Glorious Thread
Old Apr 6, 2017 | 02:22 PM
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do the reroute

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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 02:53 PM
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define: advantage
Old Apr 6, 2017 | 02:55 PM
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do the reroute

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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 03:00 PM
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There is a reason why coolant goes through the heater core. It is critical for circulation and heat transfer. Think of it as a mini radiator.
Old Apr 6, 2017 | 03:01 PM
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do the reroute

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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 01:47 PM
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I bypassed my heater core when I did a reroute. Really a reroute should be done to help that #4 cyl stay cooler. There are some diagrams floating around showing the stock coolant path and how the path is restrictive for the #4. I did the reroute the same time I did an aluminum radiator and the heater core delete. I have no data to prove anything. I looked at it as a way to lessen potential failure points. If you are going to go turbo I think a coolant reroute is cheap insurance. I did mine with Skou's spacer, Kia water neck, some generic gaskets, a 30(?)mm freeze plug, and a cut up Yukon upper rad hose. Like $125 bucks with some added hardware. Ebay radiator but you are taking a gamble with them. Now that I am turbo I start to creep up to the 210-215 marks under heavy and extended mountain driving. Not tested on track, yet.
Old Apr 7, 2017 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 90civichhb
I bypassed my heater core when I did a reroute. Really a reroute should be done to help that #4 cyl stay cooler. There are some diagrams floating around showing the stock coolant path and how the path is restrictive for the #4. I did the reroute the same time I did an aluminum radiator and the heater core delete. I have no data to prove anything. I looked at it as a way to lessen potential failure points. If you are going to go turbo I think a coolant reroute is cheap insurance. I did mine with Skou's spacer, Kia water neck, some generic gaskets, a 30(?)mm freeze plug, and a cut up Yukon upper rad hose. Like $125 bucks with some added hardware. Ebay radiator but you are taking a gamble with them. Now that I am turbo I start to creep up to the 210-215 marks under heavy and extended mountain driving. Not tested on track, yet.
Thanks man! I saw some ebay reroute kits for 135 ish with everything.... I think I will do some data logging once the turbo is in and see how she holds up. The 1.6 temp sensor is on the back of the block so should give me a good idea of # 4 temps. I will report back and collect all my cats that I will be due from these lovely people
Old Apr 7, 2017 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mr steve
Thanks man! I saw some ebay reroute kits for 135 ish with everything.... I think I will do some data logging once the turbo is in and see how she holds up. The 1.6 temp sensor is on the back of the block so should give me a good idea of # 4 temps. I will report back and collect all my cats that I will be due from these lovely people
If you're talking about the miatamecca or whatever kits, then no those aren't the right ones. If you're talking about bandits/hawleys kits, then carry on.
Old Apr 7, 2017 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mr steve
Thanks man! I saw some ebay reroute kits for 135 ish with everything.... I think I will do some data logging once the turbo is in and see how she holds up. The 1.6 temp sensor is on the back of the block so should give me a good idea of # 4 temps. I will report back and collect all my cats that I will be due from these lovely people

Don't let this place get to ya. There is some great information on the board and really helpful people. Your 1.6 should have two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. The rear one is the correct one to use if you are running Megasquirt. The bad part is that it will be post radiator so you will not get an accurate reading of the #4 cyl temps. That's really where the correction comes in with the reroute. Now #4 will get direct cooling instead of #1, the way it was designed in the FWD cars.

I'm not familiar with the ebay reroutes. I wouldn't hesitate to post a link here and see what sort of criticisms it receives.
Old Apr 7, 2017 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 90civichhb
Don't let this place get to ya. There is some great information on the board and really helpful people. Your 1.6 should have two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. The rear one is the correct one to use if you are running Megasquirt. The bad part is that it will be post radiator so you will not get an accurate reading of the #4 cyl temps. That's really where the correction comes in with the reroute. Now #4 will get direct cooling instead of #1, the way it was designed in the FWD cars.

I'm not familiar with the ebay reroutes. I wouldn't hesitate to post a link here and see what sort of criticisms it receives.
Miata Mecca.... why is that one a no go?
Old Apr 7, 2017 | 02:38 PM
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90-05 Mazda Miata Coolant Reroute - Full Kit | eBay
Old Apr 8, 2017 | 11:12 AM
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Looks pretty solid to me. Would be nice if it was Zinc plated hardware but he isn't making a huge profit on that kit. That spacer looks almost exactly like mine. If you have a 1.6L car you may need to extend the wiring harness for the coolant sensor but other than that it looks good.
Old Apr 8, 2017 | 01:53 PM
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That's the bandit kit.

See this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...r-mount-88962/

Buy it from his site instead and feel free to read through that thread and ask him any questions. He's great!
Old Apr 8, 2017 | 01:54 PM
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That's the bandit kit.

See this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...r-mount-88962/

Buy it from his site instead and feel free to read through that thread and ask him any questions. He's great!
Old Apr 8, 2017 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 90civichhb
I bypassed my heater core when I did a reroute. Really a reroute should be done to help that #4 cyl stay cooler. There are some diagrams floating around showing the stock coolant path and how the path is restrictive for the #4. I did the reroute the same time I did an aluminum radiator and the heater core delete. I have no data to prove anything. I looked at it as a way to lessen potential failure points. If you are going to go turbo I think a coolant reroute is cheap insurance. I did mine with Skou's spacer, Kia water neck, some generic gaskets, a 30(?)mm freeze plug, and a cut up Yukon upper rad hose. Like $125 bucks with some added hardware. Ebay radiator but you are taking a gamble with them. Now that I am turbo I start to creep up to the 210-215 marks under heavy and extended mountain driving. Not tested on track, yet.
I've been sitting well under 200 with my ebay rad, factory under tray, and DIY coolant reroute. All the parts cost me at most $160, well worth it




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