Those of us who live in California have to un-modify our cars every two years for the ARB's state-sanctioned protological certification and eye exam. Being able to plug straight into the factory wiring makes it easier and quicker to remove and reinstall.

Neat trick. Although in my case, the bottom of the ignitor was held on not with silicone, but with a very hard cement, almost like JB-weld, but white. It was surprisingly difficult to prise free.

I used a bandsaw to slice the back edge off (the side furthest from the connector) and then took the plate off wth heavy needle-nose pliers. It bent the metal somewhat, causing the circuit board to shatter. By the way- when you're prying that circuit board off the plate be very careful- it seems to be made of porcelin or glass, and I cut my thumb on one of the shards. Wouldn't have been so bad had my hands not been covered in brake cleaner from trying to remove that horrible clear goo.

Although in my case, the bottom of the ignitor was held on not with silicone, but with a very hard cement, almost like JB-weld, but white. It was surprisingly difficult to prise free.

odd. the glue in mind was nasty, snot-like in consitensy. Like rubber cement that didn't harden, but a lot stronger. My pcb board is very happily sealed to the metal plate. I have been unable to pry it free, and it's neither budged nor broken.

My ignitor is part # J702T-0706. I remember that the one on the car now has a different part # on it after the -. Perhaps a different sealant was used on the different runs. :dunno:

I would wired up the COPs and given it a go (minus hold down bracketry) Sunday, but I couldn't find my fine duty soldering gun. Oh, and I didn't pick up any pins to make coil plugs anyway.

I thought the GB was just for a set of 4 COPs.

Ok, so I filled up before I drove to the machine shop in roanoke this morning. The round trip totalled almost exactly 90 miles for me with a nice 5 mile 500+foot mountain climb near the end. My fuel gauge is just at the very first tick after that. So it looks like I'm on the way to at least 300miles to this tank. Pretty good considering I was at only 200 last tank with highway driving.

Mine had the clear snot inside as well, which I assume is a moisture-barrier to protect the PCB. However the metal lid was held in place will a very stout cement. I actually bent the metal plate considerably while getting it off and had to hammer it flat again.

I gave up trying to find those and simply soldered wires directly to the coil pins. I used a dremel with a fine carbide cutter to burnish the pins first, soldered wires to the pins, then mounted the coils in a vise and poured 2-part epoxy into the shell, and embedded the end of some 1/4" split-loom over the wires into the epoxy. I'll have to take a picture, it looks surprisingly good for a total hack-job.

http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/wire-loom-tees.htm

These things are great for making cleen looking splitloom harnesses.

the clear snot is nasty dude...mine lifted off with only one drill hole however...

70 sent

EDIT: Oops, something isn't working for me lazzer i might have to flakeout on this one.

Anyone that wants to take my place, feel free.

so it would need a cas signal, so it wouldn't work on a 99 and newer?

I'm running megasquirt on my '99 using a '97 CAS which is super easy to install. Megasquirt uses the CAS signal and will fire the COPs in my situation in batch form.

Maybe there is someway to filter the crank sensor on the front of the motor into a different signal so that the COPS could be fired that way. That would be quite an ordeal though. I think Arga experimented with that using MSII as well.

What engine management do you want to use?

Wtf, do you have me on ignore? I repeatedly asked to be added to the list.

Also, does this include wires or just plugs? If not wires, what are the rest of you guys doing?

I don't like the idea of soldering wires up to the connectors. Too much opportunity for a short.

Not if you shrinkwrap the soldered wires up.

I'll be using .110 shielded crimp connectors from radioshack... have to buy 8 packs of the pack of 10 to get 2 of the .110 per pack.... but its sheiled and they just just fit.

Of you mean those little spade clips? Those might actually work on the toyota coil plug prongs.

They do work, they squeeze in super tight if you use the fully shielded. Otherwise the unshielded might work, just remember to shrink wrap those.

Ok... 2 or 3 of the fully shielded radioshack ones can fit side by side.... but its super tight. I think i'll run 2 shielded and 2 non in there... and shrinkwrap the non shielded ones.

I just got ahold of some coils then and I will be good to go.

we we're talking about getting sequential firing for the COPS using the EMU, it does seem feasible but i guess would need a CAS signal, i do have a cas laying around from a 97? i think, i guess with some creative wiring it could all be made to work

Sorry I didn't catch it. Did you PM me? I have AIM and Yahoo too. cjernigan offered someone to have his. In that case I'll put you down in his place.

Ampz-paid.
y8s-paid
TurboTim-paid

Payment required from:
SOL general
beerslurpy
firedog25

Shipping in the usa shouldn't be more then $10 usps so the rest of you ordering the coils send $70 to Lazzer408@yahoo.com via. Paypal.

When all 6 sets are paid I'll place the order and get them out asap.

Thanks.

edit - I'd like to get these sets ordered by Thursday Aug. 9th.

Thanks man.

I need to bookmark the page with the wiring diagram. I can never remember the colors.