I wrapped mine up yesterday...and THEY FRIGGIN' ROCK!

Definitely not snake oil...very noticeable difference...no hiccups, and I'm now going to need much bigger tires. The little bump put me over the line for 185s being liveable, and it now wants to lay serious rubber in first two gears.

My 5Krpm cutout is gone...and it pulls straight to redline without the little jerks I used to get. This is all on out-of-the-box gapped NGK Rs.

I was surprised at how easy the harness fitting was once I finally got started. My cheap little parts store audio pins worked great without having to source Toyota connectors...and I simply filled the cavity in with silicone which is holding up well.

Very happy! Thanks to all the guys that did the hard work making this work and doing the write-ups.

Glad to hear the COPs work well for you

I'm also trying to stay away from the stock Toyota connectors by using audio type spade connectors.
I got them at Advanced Auto p/n 84547 Gold Plated Female Diconnects .110inch.

I used some gold plated ones as well...but pulled off the plastic surround (clear red) so they would all squeeze in.

I posted the link and part number in another thread...but they're easy to find in .110" at AutoZone.

I just got the whole lot at a junk yard, and cut the connectors off the donor car. They charged me $15 for 4 plugs. Totally work it, no hassle and they work great.

What did you use to get the red plastic pieces off ?

1. Place pair of pliers in each hand

2. Pull


If I could go back I'd source the connectors...especially at an Abe-like price.

I would also leave yourself more room in the individual leads. I kept mine *really* tight thinking I was smart. It looks nice, and keeps them from touching valve cover....BUT I can't pull one coil at a time. Have to pop all four out with hold-down plate as a unit.

Thanks, I just figured it out by accident.

I may go to a couple of junk yards tomorrow to look for coil plugs....

Since two packs of spade connectors cost me $14 (and a lot more work) you would be well suited to look for the Toyota connectors. It would be work 2-3 times that price for the ease of assembly and quick-disconnect.

Also, with those audio connectors, you have to be really careful none of them are touching down in the base. I ended up stagger bending each of the pins...which I seriously disliked. This gave me maybe .050" of airspace for the silicone to fill. It works (up to 7300rpm as tested yesterday)...but I'd feel better about an OEM quality solution there.

I had the same issue despite partially prying the little connectors open with a small screw driver. :vash:

I got the audio connectors because it was relatively easy just to get them at Advanced Auto. If I find OEM connectors at a good price I'll go that route but if they try to screw me at least I can finsih the COP set up.

Yeah, it can be done...just a little more effort.

Easy to find...bitch to install. The effort I saved tracking things down was lost trying to get them on. I would have rather spent the time in a junk yard a week earlier than having install day take an extra hour for that BS.

But if you're in a spot sometimes you look for the "easy" way out.



Either way the conversion is very much worth it. You will be surprised at how easy it goes...and how much difference it makes.


I just ran to RadiosHack and got my 1kOhm resistor...so tach is working again. But even without this you can take datalogs...you just don't know when to shift (or in my case have any idea how fast you're going since speedo cable is broken too).


All in all this cost me just over $100. Even if it only netted 10hp somewhere it's probably one of the best bang-for-the-buck mods you can do.

BTW I'm doing this pre- turbo. :laugh:

I also have the MS and a slightly healthier fuel pump installed.

Still need a better clutch, rear end and of course a turbo kit :noob:

You can save more time and trade it for money: Call. Some junk yards will sell you the connectors or the whole engine harness. Just tell them what you want and let them pull it. Spoiled here in SD with a nearly infinite supply of junk yards, still.

Good time to stock up, lots of cash-for-clunkers cars around I'll bet

LMAO :laugh:

I just phoned 14 junk yards in my area starting with the ones that are closer to me- Only two claim to have cars that the coil plugs can be cutt off.
One wanted $80.00 and the other wanted $75.00 :vash:
The remainder did not have them.
All of the people that I contacted had a really hard time even understanding what I was talking about. One lady had me actually laughing as she tried to repeat what I was saying so that her ( I guess ) manager/boss would hear it and reply.
At least I got a good laugh from all this. :giggle:

How many terminals from each end did you guys skip when soldering the wires on to the empty ignitir ?

I started soldering wires starting from one end skipping the two outer most terminal on each end but ended up with one extra empty reminal.

Am I supposed to leave two un used terminal at each end or 3 ??

Thanks

Poobs, PM me i have a pic for you to follow

Thanks man !!

I just got the car running with the COPs .

Now I just have to add a couple of more ties and I should be done.

Oh, and I have to figure a way to keep the coils inside the plug wells - maybe I'll have to do the plate thing but I'm going to try to come up with something else.

COP's for dummies

http://i37.tinypic.com/qnpo8x.jpg

Mods feel to use pic as you like

Great pic !!!

Awsome pic can someone do the same for 1.8's

As far as I know it should be the same. If there are differences it will not be in the coil harness itself but MAYBE in how it connects to the stock ignitor section..
You may want to do a search here and mitat.net under COPs for threads.

Try here https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t12704/