Each coilpack has three wires. A ground (Black), 12 Volt (Black/White), and a trigger where each coilpack controls two cylinders and that is either brown or brown/yellow. I just cut the connectors and tied the same wires together. Hope that helps explain it a lil bit

Once you unplug the coils, you will have 6 wires: 2 power, 2 ground, 2 triggers. The power and grounds actually go to the same sources so they are redundant. The diagram assumes you have joined the two power into one and the two ground into one, or simply ignored the second set of power and grounds in the second coil connector. Either way, you end up with 1 power, 1 ground, 2 triggers.

I got a dead 99/00 coilpack and cut off the connectors to make a plug-and-play setup, but I discovered it was VERY difficult to remove the insulation filling in the connector and solder to the wire stubs. I purchased an extra PAIR (just in case) of coil/sensor/injector harnesses for a 99/00 here in the classifieds or from PartsGroup and built a hardwired harness. MUCH cleaner, though it is significantly harder to remove. I tried to use a 6 wire weatherpack but my crimps have proven unreliable.

I also added an additional ground that goes to a bolt on the back of the head. Because fuck you, that's why.

I installed the cap, no resistor. I understand (in theory) what it does, so I installed it. There is some debate as to if the cap is required or not. IIRC Tach signal is generated by the stock ECU or Megasquirt in the NB1 (& NB2?) so no need to worry about that. If you have tach before the install, you should have tach after the install.

Correct.

On the NBas i unplugged the cam sensor and the tach went to 0. Somehow i'm not subscribed to this thread so i didnt see the replys.

For those running COPs on their 1.6, did you add a second ground to the head?

I noticed there are 2 'lazzer' diagrams floating around the internet and one utilizes the OEM harness ground wire and the other adds an additional ground at the head.

I was going to opt of of the second ground since it seems like over kill and it's one more piece of cooper spagetti cluttering up my bay.

-Zach

I've also grounded mine to the head and they are working perfectly for 1 year now.

My room mate tried it and he burned 2 out after a few days of going to work and back.

Hi there

This thread made the COP install super easy.

just got it installed yesterday and put on my escort valve cover i grabbed at the jyard for cheaps. (lol they also had a racingbeat style bar I got for 5 bucks!)

I have yet to paint the VC but heres how she looks! running like a baws.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374853430

Okay so I got my cops made but my tach isn't working. I believe this is because I didn't use a capacitor and resistor. Where am I suppose to tap it into? Somewhere in the harness? I'm not too sure if this is causing my leaning issue. Right now it's grounded to the head, and so is my wideband. Would that cause any interference? Will I need to add an extra ground?

What year is your car? 94-95.5 use the 4th wire on the coils as the tach trigger just wire them all together and connect to the tach trigger wire. I believe the 90-93 cars are the same. The 95.5+ cars all have the tach driven by the ECU based on the CAS/crank sensor.

Mine is a 92. 1.6. I'm going to have to figure out this leaning issue

put a 1K resistor between IG- and B+ in your diagnostics box.


it's not the capacitor, it was the lack of resistor.


The Stock ECU provides a pull-up for the tach. This comes out 2I on teh Black/White wire.

When you build the harness, you need to connect the black/white to yellow/blue, which is the tach wire that goes out from the ignitor.

If you remove the stock ECU, you remove the pull up, so you need a 1K resistor from 12v to the yellow/blue wire. Luckily, this wire goes to the diagnostics box via Ig-.

Otherwise, you can make the appropriate connections in your ECU harness and send a 1K pull to 12v out through 2I.

Thanks brain. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I will come back to this thread after logging a drive. "Finding the lean problem". So far I changed my spark plugs to brke7 Ngk and recalibrated my wideband.

So I think I have found my leaning issue. While running the car, I removed the coil from cylinder 1 and noticed no difference in sound. I removed the coil on cylinder 2 and it was running rough. I removed the coil from cylinder 3 and it started running rough. I removed the coil from cylinder 4 and no difference in sound. I'm assuming it's only firing on 2 coils (cylinder 2 & 3). I tried using cylinder 2 coil on 1 and 4. Still no difference. Possibly bad wiring? I'm not running a capacitor or resistor and I have a mspnp.

Aww fail. Trigger wire was soldered to the ground wire... Is there a possibility that I fried anything? I tried switching back to the stock coilpack.. I installed new wires, plugged in the harness, plugged in the ignitor, and changed the dwell settings (crank 8ms running 5ms).. Car is running like the ignitor is blown.. I swapped 3 other ignitors still runs the same.. Any ideas?

Posted in wrong thread...

I apologize. I'll start a new thread.

No no no... I posted in the wrong thread. I just edited the comment cause I couldn't delete it lol

Lol. Too late. I made another one.

Has any of you folks been able to find a voltage vs dwell chart for the Toyota cops?

Similar to this?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1377415875

Should i waste time joining both 12s and grounds together or should i just ignore the 2nd set? I'm referring specifically here to 2 wires adding up to a thicker wire or is it unnecessary?