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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 04-29-2014, 06:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlev View Post
Do you mind if I ask why you built ? Was it future proofing for higher boost? 10psi/12psi should be fine on that setup stock, right? 16 may be pushing it tho.
Whoa whoa whoa not so fast. I take no credit for this thing. Got it in partial trade for an MSM.

I don't care if 16psi is pushing it or not. I'll probably spike this bitch to 20psi in the midrange and let it taper to 16psi by redline. What's the worst that happens as long as my IATs are acceptable? I blow a turbo? Oh no.... PLEASE don't make me upgrade to a 2860.



Oh, and to make it even more strange: The car is a 95.


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Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
Who knows. I think Ben should name that car 'Fantastic Planet', because it's ******* weird and makes no sense but you just can't look away.
"Weird" is certainly a way to describe it. The way it runs cannot be explained either. It makes my brain hurt.

I almost looped the ******* thing doing a u-turn on Southport this morning in traffic. Was going about 12mph in 2nd gear. I sneezed, and suddenly was completely slideways across the road. A gnarly tank slapper and a little **** later, everything was ok.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:22 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
I almost looped the ******* thing doing a u-turn on Southport this morning in traffic. Was going about 12mph in 2nd gear. I sneezed, and suddenly was completely slideways across the road. A gnarly tank slapper and a little **** later, everything was ok.
A similar thing happened to me when I first got my Miata. Just wasn't used to the 50/50 and a balanced car. I had been driving a GTI and a Tiburon before that, which are very understeer-y cars.

I was making a big sweeper right handed corner in the rain and went for the throttle mid-corner. Tail end broke loose, and I lifted like a fool. I ended up 40mph going backwards down a local highway.

This was under stock power. Just didn't realize what a balanced car was like.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:23 PM   #23
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It has less to do with that than it does that boost threshold on this thing is sub-1400rpms and it will build full boost immediately. Anywhere.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:26 PM   #24
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Ah I figured it was just your crappy blown stock suspension.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:30 PM   #25
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Nah bro, it's got a big RB front bar. And some super awesome GR2s.

And the best tire ever, the bald T1R.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:34 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
It has less to do with that than it does that boost threshold on this thing is sub-1400rpms and it will build full boost immediately. Anywhere.
I am very much excited for that with my GT2554R on my 99.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:46 PM   #27
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It's not as good as it sounds. I would HIGHLY suggest a 2560.
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:58 PM   #28
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Ermahghed! Did somebody mention sub 1400 rpm boost! *Insert generic supercharger ramblings.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:59 PM   #29
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Various cars on various dynos.

NB8C
-Unequal length short tubular (absurdflow rear mounted style)
-GT2560
-2.5" exhaust with hotdog and muffler
-separated gases 3"dump pipe and 3" cat, smooth transition back to 2.5"
-Haltech PS1000
-RX8 injectors
-Stock ignition
-cheap intercooler (550x140x65)
-2" coldside 2.5" hotside piping
-Turbosmart kompact 34/34mm valve (evo stock replacement)
-EBC via the ecu on a MAC valve
-12psi
235WHP




NB8C
-Close to equal length tubular with a decent collector 16-17" runners
-Brand new volvo T5 turbo (pics)
-2.5" exhaust after the cart, smooth transition
-3" seperated gases dump pipe and cat
-Adaptronic select ecu
-Deutschwork 750cc
-cheap intercooler (550x140x65)
-2" coldside 2.5" hotside piping
-Works Engineering carbon airbox
-Bov and gate are built into the turbo
-Bleed valve, manual boost control
185whpish on 7psi
210whpish on 10psi (different days)









NB8A
-Flowy log, side/high mount like an FM manifold
-GT2876r
-2.5 in exhaust after cat
-3" bellmouth dump pipe and cat
-Adaptronic select ECU
-RX8's
-cheap intercooler (550x140x65)
-2.5" lobsterback colside and 2.5" mandrel coldside piping
-No BOV
-Heavily ported internal gate and 5.5psi actuator
[email protected]





Ill come back and do some more.

Dann
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:05 AM   #30
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Excellent info, props to you good sir!
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:19 PM   #31
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Track proven build:
STOCK 1.6 engine
ARTech Taco T3 clone manifold
Hybrid T3 turbo, journal bearing, 55 trim
TSE Inconel stage 8 kit (a must)
Turbosmart controller, bov, wg
430cc injectors
EBay IC
25row eBay oil cooler
MSPNP
Mtuned reroute
A good tune

Putting 274rwhp, 235ish ftlb
It's somewhere in the build thread...

Last edited by GeneSplicer; 05-04-2014 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:01 PM   #32
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Even after reading through this thread, i'm not sure what is REALLY being proven here. Mainly because there is so many (maybe even endless) variables at play...

But i'll chip in.

My last dyno appearance.

https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...es-pull-75792/

My car made 262hp with a little crummy 2560 at 12psi.
Which is guess is the crazy "proven" part. Perhaps it's my engine builder, maybe my engine internals. Probably a combination of both. Because as we all know looking at my datalog / tune it's absolutely not that. haha Or could be another "proven" point that a garbage tune doesn't always mean bad numbers.
Quote:
Built engine(95 block and head). Scat rods, Supertech pistons 9.0:1 1mm over, ballanced, BE oil pump, Gates WP and TB, ACL bearings.
PnP head, Supertech 1mm over valves with supertech 63lb dual springs. Fully rebuilt with all new parts and 99+ retainers.
gt2560 with FM log manifold and turndown everything fully PnP. Ran on wastegate pressure. (FM no electronics kit) Turbosmart BOV
2.5" FM exhaust with test pipe.
750cc 5o injectors, with MS2. (stock fuel and spark) 350hp intercooler.
FM stage 2 clutch.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:42 PM   #33
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Flyin Miata just posted to FB that they just dynod an FMII build.

supposedly a stock internal 99 with a 2560 running 10psi made uncorrected 263 at the wheels. They said "the 3" exhaust makes a big difference".

That seems awful high to me. Or am I wrong and that's bout right? I would expect closer to ~220ish at the wheels for 10psi uncorrected.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:43 PM   #34
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It's high.
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:46 PM   #35
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I asked if their dyno needed calibrating and he responded "lol no - good ecu, good exhaust, good tuner."
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:02 PM   #36
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Their dyno has always put out higher numbers than you would expect. I keep that in mind anytime I view a dyno sheet from them.
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:10 PM   #37
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Dyno numbers don't matter, but yes, their numbers have always been extremely high. Our old MSM was dyno'd at FM, and again with a MUCH stronger tune two years later on a different dyno locally.

There was a 50whp spread between the two dynos. And..... FM's dyno was the one that read higher, despite the car being WAY faster at the time of putting the lower numbers on the local dyno.


Dynos are for tuning, not for bragging rights.
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:13 PM   #38
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I think Hustler made like 260whp with a 2860 at 16psi or something. Definitely high, but it's legal now so everything in CO should be high
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Old 05-20-2014, 04:30 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
i wouldn't really reference my diy faq anymore, it's pretty outdated.
Any plans to update it, I am going through the pains of learning, and as Mike says its all out there but hard to collate? This thread has been helpful, I am trying to get a feel for the real world torque characteristics and if there are similarities across the different set ups.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:13 AM   #40
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deltree

Last edited by kenzo42; 05-21-2014 at 03:45 AM.
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