Custom TD04-13L (WRX Turbo) 1993 1.6 build
04-23-2009, 04:32 PM
#21
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mmmm... thats juicy... i've been trying to get my manifold fabbed up for a couple months now. i picked up an identical turbo... nice to see an actual setup..
if only i could finally get this on my thunderbird:
or i could put it on my 92 b&t.
if only i could finally get this on my thunderbird:
or i could put it on my 92 b&t.
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10-06-2009, 08:52 AM
#27
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Finally started rebuilding exhaust manifold. New manifold is going to make the turbo sit lower and closer to engine block (eliminating my issue of the downpipe being 1/2" from the steering column).
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10-31-2009, 01:16 AM
#29
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Just finished mtuned coolant reroute and installing supra green 305cc injectors. Cranked it up to 8 psi and holy **** is it quick.
The car shows no signs of overheating but in MS my water temp will go up to 215 sitting at a traffic light but will cool down fast once i get moving / fans turn on. Im assuming this is from my radiator fans blowing hot air into my air filter raising my IAT temp.
Next step is isolating the air filter from the engine bay and giving it proper air flow i guess.
Any recommendations are appreciated.
The car shows no signs of overheating but in MS my water temp will go up to 215 sitting at a traffic light but will cool down fast once i get moving / fans turn on. Im assuming this is from my radiator fans blowing hot air into my air filter raising my IAT temp.
Next step is isolating the air filter from the engine bay and giving it proper air flow i guess.
Any recommendations are appreciated.
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10-31-2009, 09:59 AM
#30
Welcome! I'll note a couple things. I like your paint job but not the tails, but hey, your car.
I wouldn't say that your CLT is a result of your IAT when sitting, no. You're just probably not used to having a real CLT to refer to, instead of the typical guage that most cars have that reads the same whether at 160* or 220* so as not to alarm the driver.
I wouldn't bother ducting to the oil cooler unless you can come up with a really good reason to. I don't run one (I have an OE 1.8 cooler waiting to go on), and the dedicated track guys here (think Savington) don't have the oil cooler ducted either. In fact, Sav has his behind his bumper with no airflow hitting it directly at all. The important thing is to get the oil out of the block for cooling. I'm afraid if you duct it you'll be over-cooling your oil, which is bad.
I'd also recommend ditching that dead weight PS pump and reservoir and looping the PS lines (or do a full FM depower if you have time). Pick up a couple HP from the parasitic drag loss and free up a lot of space underhood, not to mention gain more communicative steering.
There do seem to be concentrations: NoVa, ATL, TX, San Diego/LA/SF Bay
I wouldn't say that your CLT is a result of your IAT when sitting, no. You're just probably not used to having a real CLT to refer to, instead of the typical guage that most cars have that reads the same whether at 160* or 220* so as not to alarm the driver.
I wouldn't bother ducting to the oil cooler unless you can come up with a really good reason to. I don't run one (I have an OE 1.8 cooler waiting to go on), and the dedicated track guys here (think Savington) don't have the oil cooler ducted either. In fact, Sav has his behind his bumper with no airflow hitting it directly at all. The important thing is to get the oil out of the block for cooling. I'm afraid if you duct it you'll be over-cooling your oil, which is bad.
I'd also recommend ditching that dead weight PS pump and reservoir and looping the PS lines (or do a full FM depower if you have time). Pick up a couple HP from the parasitic drag loss and free up a lot of space underhood, not to mention gain more communicative steering.
There do seem to be concentrations: NoVa, ATL, TX, San Diego/LA/SF Bay
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10-31-2009, 11:32 AM
#31
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Welcome! I'll note a couple things. I like your paint job but not the tails, but hey, your car.
I wouldn't say that your CLT is a result of your IAT when sitting, no. You're just probably not used to having a real CLT to refer to, instead of the typical guage that most cars have that reads the same whether at 160* or 220* so as not to alarm the driver.
I wouldn't bother ducting to the oil cooler unless you can come up with a really good reason to. I don't run one (I have an OE 1.8 cooler waiting to go on), and the dedicated track guys here (think Savington) don't have the oil cooler ducted either. In fact, Sav has his behind his bumper with no airflow hitting it directly at all. The important thing is to get the oil out of the block for cooling. I'm afraid if you duct it you'll be over-cooling your oil, which is bad.
I'd also recommend ditching that dead weight PS pump and reservoir and looping the PS lines (or do a full FM depower if you have time). Pick up a couple HP from the parasitic drag loss and free up a lot of space underhood, not to mention gain more communicative steering.
There do seem to be concentrations: NoVa, ATL, TX, San Diego/LA/SF Bay
I wouldn't say that your CLT is a result of your IAT when sitting, no. You're just probably not used to having a real CLT to refer to, instead of the typical guage that most cars have that reads the same whether at 160* or 220* so as not to alarm the driver.
I wouldn't bother ducting to the oil cooler unless you can come up with a really good reason to. I don't run one (I have an OE 1.8 cooler waiting to go on), and the dedicated track guys here (think Savington) don't have the oil cooler ducted either. In fact, Sav has his behind his bumper with no airflow hitting it directly at all. The important thing is to get the oil out of the block for cooling. I'm afraid if you duct it you'll be over-cooling your oil, which is bad.
I'd also recommend ditching that dead weight PS pump and reservoir and looping the PS lines (or do a full FM depower if you have time). Pick up a couple HP from the parasitic drag loss and free up a lot of space underhood, not to mention gain more communicative steering.
There do seem to be concentrations: NoVa, ATL, TX, San Diego/LA/SF Bay
As for the "ducting" I was refering to making a air filter box to keep it issolated from the hot engine bay. I was hoping that might help keep my IAT down (I would add a NACA duct or something to assist the TSI to get the filter air).
The oil cooler prior to the coolant reroute actually had me thinking that it was ineffective due to its location but since the reroute oil temps have never been lower.
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10-31-2009, 04:14 PM
#32
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I wouldn't bother ducting to the oil cooler unless you can come up with a really good reason to. I don't run one (I have an OE 1.8 cooler waiting to go on), and the dedicated track guys here (think Savington) don't have the oil cooler ducted either. In fact, Sav has his behind his bumper with no airflow hitting it directly at all. The important thing is to get the oil out of the block for cooling. I'm afraid if you duct it you'll be over-cooling your oil, which is bad.
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10-31-2009, 09:51 PM
#34
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After a few adjustments the car is no longer over heating but is still running fairly hot (190 to 215). I was thinking of adding a thermostat to control my radiator fans.. having them turn on at 215 is to high right? I was thinking ideally it would be around 175-190...correct me if im wrong please.
Also im now running 12 psi and its
. I really need to get this thing dyno'd now!
Also im now running 12 psi and its
. I really need to get this thing dyno'd now!
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11-01-2009, 03:50 PM
#35
After a few adjustments the car is no longer over heating but is still running fairly hot (190 to 215). I was thinking of adding a thermostat to control my radiator fans.. having them turn on at 215 is to high right? I was thinking ideally it would be around 175-190...correct me if im wrong please.
Of course it's possible some retard put a 160F thermostat in your car previously.
Does it get cold where you live? 175-190F might ideally suck for somebody living up north because the car won't heat the interior worth a damn.
As for the best setting for forced induction, I'll defer that answer to the forum veterans.
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