Custom TD04-13L (WRX Turbo) 1993 1.6 build - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 04-23-2009, 05:32 PM   #21
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mmmm... thats juicy... i've been trying to get my manifold fabbed up for a couple months now. i picked up an identical turbo... nice to see an actual setup..

if only i could finally get this on my thunderbird:


or i could put it on my 92 b&t.
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Old 04-23-2009, 06:34 PM   #22
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Did you retain the stock oil cooler under the original position of the oil filter?
The 1.6 miata does not come with a factory oil cooler. I added it to my car and have it set inbetween the oil filter and the motor.
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Old 04-25-2009, 02:57 PM   #23
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Oh. Mine is a 1.8 and I thought that they all had them.
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Old 07-11-2009, 04:34 PM   #24
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Just got it back from the paint shop.

Pearl white/gloss black
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Old 07-11-2009, 05:08 PM   #25
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Everyone should note how good it looks when the pillar matches the hardtop. Congrats on the paint.
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Old 07-11-2009, 06:57 PM   #26
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I really like this car. It makes me wish I went turbo on my own car. I like the style too although I prefer the stock tail lights and white finish panel.

Where'd you pick up the turn signal intakes? I think I need a pair.
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:52 AM   #27
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Finally started rebuilding exhaust manifold. New manifold is going to make the turbo sit lower and closer to engine block (eliminating my issue of the downpipe being 1/2" from the steering column).

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Old 10-11-2009, 07:07 PM   #28
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All done. Mtuned coolant reroute and 305cc injectors next weekend.


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Old 10-31-2009, 02:16 AM   #29
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Just finished mtuned coolant reroute and installing supra green 305cc injectors. Cranked it up to 8 psi and holy **** is it quick.

The car shows no signs of overheating but in MS my water temp will go up to 215 sitting at a traffic light but will cool down fast once i get moving / fans turn on. Im assuming this is from my radiator fans blowing hot air into my air filter raising my IAT temp.

Next step is isolating the air filter from the engine bay and giving it proper air flow i guess.

Any recommendations are appreciated.
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:59 AM   #30
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Welcome! I'll note a couple things. I like your paint job but not the tails, but hey, your car.

I wouldn't say that your CLT is a result of your IAT when sitting, no. You're just probably not used to having a real CLT to refer to, instead of the typical guage that most cars have that reads the same whether at 160* or 220* so as not to alarm the driver.

I wouldn't bother ducting to the oil cooler unless you can come up with a really good reason to. I don't run one (I have an OE 1.8 cooler waiting to go on), and the dedicated track guys here (think Savington) don't have the oil cooler ducted either. In fact, Sav has his behind his bumper with no airflow hitting it directly at all. The important thing is to get the oil out of the block for cooling. I'm afraid if you duct it you'll be over-cooling your oil, which is bad.

I'd also recommend ditching that dead weight PS pump and reservoir and looping the PS lines (or do a full FM depower if you have time). Pick up a couple HP from the parasitic drag loss and free up a lot of space underhood, not to mention gain more communicative steering.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tronik View Post
nice to see more turbo miatas around nova. This has to be the worldwide hqs of turbo miatas.
There do seem to be concentrations: NoVa, ATL, TX, San Diego/LA/SF Bay
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Old 10-31-2009, 12:32 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kotomile View Post
Welcome! I'll note a couple things. I like your paint job but not the tails, but hey, your car.

I wouldn't say that your CLT is a result of your IAT when sitting, no. You're just probably not used to having a real CLT to refer to, instead of the typical guage that most cars have that reads the same whether at 160* or 220* so as not to alarm the driver.

I wouldn't bother ducting to the oil cooler unless you can come up with a really good reason to. I don't run one (I have an OE 1.8 cooler waiting to go on), and the dedicated track guys here (think Savington) don't have the oil cooler ducted either. In fact, Sav has his behind his bumper with no airflow hitting it directly at all. The important thing is to get the oil out of the block for cooling. I'm afraid if you duct it you'll be over-cooling your oil, which is bad.

I'd also recommend ditching that dead weight PS pump and reservoir and looping the PS lines (or do a full FM depower if you have time). Pick up a couple HP from the parasitic drag loss and free up a lot of space underhood, not to mention gain more communicative steering.



There do seem to be concentrations: NoVa, ATL, TX, San Diego/LA/SF Bay
Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I also wasnt a big fan of the aftermarket tail lights so those have been replaced with a stock set.

As for the "ducting" I was refering to making a air filter box to keep it issolated from the hot engine bay. I was hoping that might help keep my IAT down (I would add a NACA duct or something to assist the TSI to get the filter air).

The oil cooler prior to the coolant reroute actually had me thinking that it was ineffective due to its location but since the reroute oil temps have never been lower.
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Old 10-31-2009, 05:14 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kotomile View Post
I wouldn't bother ducting to the oil cooler unless you can come up with a really good reason to. I don't run one (I have an OE 1.8 cooler waiting to go on), and the dedicated track guys here (think Savington) don't have the oil cooler ducted either. In fact, Sav has his behind his bumper with no airflow hitting it directly at all. The important thing is to get the oil out of the block for cooling. I'm afraid if you duct it you'll be over-cooling your oil, which is bad.
If you duct it, you can have a smaller, lighter cooler to get the same work done, which is good. An external cooler should have a thermostat somewhere controlling a bypass, just like the water cooling system. Some higher-end heat exchangers have them built into the unit itself.
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Old 10-31-2009, 06:11 PM   #33
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Nice car, I'm probably going to do a WRX turbo on my car too.
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:51 PM   #34
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After a few adjustments the car is no longer over heating but is still running fairly hot (190 to 215). I was thinking of adding a thermostat to control my radiator fans.. having them turn on at 215 is to high right? I was thinking ideally it would be around 175-190...correct me if im wrong please.

Also im now running 12 psi and its . I really need to get this thing dyno'd now!
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Old 11-01-2009, 04:50 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxnova View Post
After a few adjustments the car is no longer over heating but is still running fairly hot (190 to 215). I was thinking of adding a thermostat to control my radiator fans.. having them turn on at 215 is to high right? I was thinking ideally it would be around 175-190...correct me if im wrong please.
I don't have 1.6 factory manual where I am right now but I do have a NB manual. For the 99-00 engines, which should be similar, the thermostat begins opening at a range between 183F and 190F and is fully open at 212F. Figuring that the thermostat just made it fully open at 212 F, 190-215F does not sound abnormal, too low if anything.

Of course it's possible some retard put a 160F thermostat in your car previously.

Does it get cold where you live? 175-190F might ideally suck for somebody living up north because the car won't heat the interior worth a damn.

As for the best setting for forced induction, I'll defer that answer to the forum veterans.
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Old 11-01-2009, 05:57 PM   #36
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My CLT when fully warm is at 215. Stock radiator.
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Old 02-13-2010, 04:42 PM   #37
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Had front lip painted black and rear lip spoiler added.

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Old 02-13-2010, 04:45 PM   #38
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going up with us to the dyno on april 10th?
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Old 02-13-2010, 04:50 PM   #39
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going up with us to the dyno on april 10th?
Definitely... pending replacing my gas tank. Stopping every 30 miles would get old fast.
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Old 02-13-2010, 06:30 PM   #40
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wattup with the gas tank? leaking? my PM about the fan control make sense?
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